Thread: Camping / Box Trailer

Originally Posted by Gordo

Will it still work? Or will it put a lot more stress on the draw bar? I have a decent off road hitch going on the draw bar and has very good articulation and movement in it

Not sure if you have done anything with this, but if it was me I would not be welding on the A frame like you have shown. In my opinion it will just snap off.

I think it would be better to run the A frame arms to the outer chassis frame, and butt them on and then plate the inner and outer sides with a 6mm plate that runs say 300mm each side of the join.

If you see on my chassis here the A frame and chassis are one.

Does that make sense?

Yep makes sense, I'll have a tinker around tomorrow morning and I'll see what I can come up with

I decided to weld the draw bar on, I'm thinking it should be ok. I have seen many trailers like this... And I have some decent welds holding it on there.
Hopefuly I get to mount the coupling and handbrake and lines tomorrow
It looks tiny when I put the 35" tyres on it, I'm not sure if these will fit on there yet or not but I'll size it up when I mount the ute back on there

I definatly need some smaller tyres, I do like the look of how big it is though

What do you plan on carrying in it?

Given the load rating of the suspension and the trailers dimensions it would have to be lead or undepleted Uranium to load it anywhere near its limit.

Firewood and the like mostly. A cubic metre is a little over a tonne for reference... But I am going to get a camper top and make it into a removable camper.
And the trailer is quite deceiving of how big it is... I'll take some internal measurements soon. The ute back came off a space cab not a duel cab so it's a little longer than normal.

Gordo,

35's make anything look small, I have them on my RR DAKAR and it looks all out of proportion due to the tyre size!

I'd be interested int he dimensions of the tray as it just looks sosmall.

I hope you can lay down t sleep in the proposed camper.

Internal dimensions are 1760 long 1450 wide and 460 deep. Obviously have wheel arches in there as well. There would be close to 100mm all the way around out side of that for the ute body
And as far as a camper top goes I was thinking of making a base frame and mounting ply on top like another camper. Over hanging to what ever size I need for the matteres

Originally Posted by zuffen

What do you plan on carrying in it?

Given the load rating of the suspension and the trailers dimensions it would have to be lead or undepleted Uranium to load it anywhere near its limit.

I think it's limited by the draw bar. Anyone else worried about the welding across it and the limited attachment?

Nev

Originally Posted by SurfinNev

I think it's limited by the draw bar. Anyone else worried about the welding across it and the limited attachment?

Nev

I have 150mm worth of welds down both sides of the draw bar as well as some across it. I am going to add some gussets from the draw bar too the black 50mm steel either side of the draw bar, just too be sure. But I think as it is it would hold up too the task.
Here it is at the moment, not the best picture but it's the only one I have of the underside at the moment...

It's a very short trailer, so won't be exerting much of a moment where the drawbar meets the frame, the drawbar looks solidly connected to the main structural elements, and the hitch appears to have very good articulation. That, combined with the independent suspension, makes me think it should be fine.

The tow hitch can fully rotate 360 degrees and will articulate up and down 70 degrees

Hitchmaster® DO35 V2 coupling

I have all but finished the chassis building. When more funds come available I am going to add some jerry can holders and a tool box on the draw bar as well as a spare. Maybe even a rock deflector
Here it is with the tow hitch and hand brake finished off

Two comments:

1. That looks like an unusually long draw bar. Too much length will cause problems with the amount of download you can place on the tow ball.

2. Some of your early photos show some pretty ordinary welds. Do you clean your stock back to bare shiny metal where you weld? The results are vastly superior if you do.