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  1. #31
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avitus View Post
    I did, what's the problem with welding across the draw bar?
    As I stated in my first post that this is my first time building a trailer.

    Please explain!
    Sorry, I missed this earlier.

    The drawbar is subject to load stresses, particularly downward pressure, and depending on the weight of the trailer, these stresses can be quite high. This is why the VSB1 states some fairly involved calculations as to what's required for the strength of the drawbar, plus the fact that it has to cope with 2 million oscillation cycles.

    Now, the drawbar itself will flex over its length as the weight of the trailer oscillates over bumps, and because of this, the drawbar needs to be allowed to flex. Welding across the top of the drawbar restricts this flexing, and over time, will eventually lead to the steel around this weld cracking. The thinner the wall thickness of the drawbar, the quicker this will happen.

    So, it's not ideal to weld accross the top of the drawbar.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
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  3. #32
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    Hi all, haven't update in a while as I been busy with other jobs. Any how I got a bit more done since I posted last and hopefully it should be finished next weekend. Just need to finish the rear door ramp and wheel arches.

  4. #33
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    Looks good so far

    Where does the wiring run for the lights? Inside the panel or elsewhere?

  5. #34
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    Some of the wires run inside the panels for the clearance lights and interior lights and the main cable for the brake, indicators run inside the chassis.

    It has certainly been allot of fun building my first trailer.

    Quote Originally Posted by surfin View Post
    Looks good so far

    Where does the wiring run for the lights? Inside the panel or elsewhere?

  6. #35
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    Have you considered a soft stone guard? That large flat front area of the trailer is an absolute stone bounce off area back to your vehicle and windows.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  7. #36
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    Hey, that's a really good thought. Do you have any suggestions on the type of materials to use.

    TIA
    Quote Originally Posted by rod1949 View Post
    Have you considered a soft stone guard? That large flat front area of the trailer is an absolute stone bounce off area back to your vehicle and windows.

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avitus View Post
    Hey, that's a really good thought. Do you have any suggestions on the type of materials to use.

    TIA
    This link https://www.woodworkforums.com/f184/f...r-bush-145855/ will show you what I did with mine. Its a shadecloth material and so far its travelled over 400ks on gravel/dirt tracks/roads. So far its worked well.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  9. #38
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    A shadecloth guard can work well. Also, Tebbs make soft vinyl pebble guards for Caravans, although their website doesn't show you much.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
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  10. #39
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    If you have the space angle the stone guard down. keep it a bit loose so you dont create a "trampoline" for stones.

    Shade cloth is ok I guess, But for my money I would use a stuctured mesh ie one that doesnt stretch like shadecloth.
    www.lockwoodcanvas.com.au

    I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.

    From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".

  11. #40
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    Oct 2012
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    Hi Avitus, just new on the site and come across your enclosed trailer. Great job. I have been toying with doing similar to carry a moke to rallies and other times as a toy hauler for a couple of quad's.


    Moderator edit:
    The question posed was relocated to its own new thread

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