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  1. #31
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Looking good.

    How are you thinking of attaching the guards? With only a 15mm gap between chassis and tyres, a standard 9" guards should butt up to the chassis and still cover the tread width, but the chassis alone is not a big enough attachment area. I would suggest a length of 50 x 50 x 5mm anlge iron, butt welded to the side of the chassis rail with the vertical facing away from the guard front and rear, and the horizontal level with the top of the chassis rail, then attach the guard with three 1-1/2 stitch welds, inner, centre & outer.

    This will do a few things;
    • Mounting it this way will give the plenty of strength, even to stand on, and will eliminate vibrations tearing the guards off.
    • You can space the guard 5mm off the chassis to eliminate any chance of dirt getting trapped between the guard lip and the chassis.
    • In the 'U' shaped cavity between the guard and the angle iron, you can weld some nuts and hide any wiring if you choose to mount clearance lamps on the front & rear outer egdes of the angle iron outriggers.
    Looking at the drawbar extensions, you could place a spare wheel on top of the drawbar, just behind the upper extensions, and it will make it look like you did it for that purpose.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
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  3. #32
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    Thanks Yonnee,

    The gap tyre/chassis is 38mm so a 280mm wide guard will do the trick, I'm going to measure it up using the VSB guide and see if the 'standard' will fit.

  4. #33
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wood66 View Post
    Thanks Yonnee,

    The gap tyre/chassis is 38mm so a 280mm wide guard will do the trick, I'm going to measure it up using the VSB guide and see if the 'standard' will fit.
    Ok, I'm a little confused. The VSB only gives you the maximum allowable dimension for a trailer, not what is "standard".

    A "standard" off the shelf mudguard is 9" or 235mm, not 280. But if you mount the guards as I described, then you can use the 9" guard and set it up so that it's flush with the outside of the tyre.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  5. #34
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    Default

    Using the VSB book for mudguards requirements, I do believe that most of the trailer suppliers do a single axle 16" guard - that are approx. 500mm at the front, 500mm across the top and 650mm at the rear, with a 30mm lip and 280-300mm wide.

    I did my measurements if I add approx 40-50mm clearance around the tyre, (With the extra added) There is 280mm from the top of the chassis to top of tyre, 280mm from chassis to outside of tyre, 750mm width of tyre to cover.

    With these I get a guard that would measure 400mm front, 550mm at the top and 625mm at the rear, with the front and rear sections bent at 50 degrees down from the horizontal. (I'd like to put this into a CAD pack and a better picture to make it easier to understand) - But pretty much similiar to what's being sold. Also as and addition a piece of flat steel on the inside of the guard to stop splash up onto the trailer between the chassis and top of the guard.

    These meets the 20/30 degree angle requirement per the VSB and the front/rear length within 150mm difference.

    I would still need to mount them similar to what you have described Yonnee.

  6. #35
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    Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonnee
    Looking at the drawbar extensions, you could place a spare wheel on top of the drawbar, just behind the upper extensions, and it will make it look like you did it for that purpose.

    That would be nice too... see how we go with what's left of the DuraGal

  7. #36
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    Question

    Question ? ..

    How much room do you give for suspension travel etc., if you design your own mudguards. is 50mm enough at a minimum??

  8. #37
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    With 9 leaf springs, and only 2 bikes, you would probably get away with about 5mm.... if that!

    Seriously though, 50mm would be about the minimum you go. If it were a box trailer that got loaded to the gunnels, then you'd increase it to about 75mm.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonnee View Post
    With 9 leaf springs, and only 2 bikes, you would probably get away with about 5mm.... if that!

    Seriously though, 50mm would be about the minimum you go. If it were a box trailer that got loaded to the gunnels, then you'd increase it to about 75mm.

    Thanks Yonnee - cheeky lad!

  10. #39
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    Aug 2008
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    Adelaide
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    Just a few bits added. Conduit for cable, lip for ramp and ramp itself. Have also decided to drill/tap/mount the lights directly to the rear cross member.

  11. #40
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    Aug 2008
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    Adelaide
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    Default Almost Done

    Well here we are almost done, Moved the lights up, as the height didn't meet ADR/VSB spec.

    Added prefab gaurds (cheaper in the end), mounted them with left over 50mm SHS, mudflaps and tidy up/paint welds.

    I've arranged for pre rego inspection at Lonsdale, permit for the day cost $7, Weigh bridge note $10, Inspection is charged back when trailer is registered at Service SA.

    Here's some update photos;

  12. #41
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    Aug 2008
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    Trailer is rego'd (I can go pick up the floor to put on it now!)

    This is rundown of how the day went;

    Take trailer, with permit for day, VIN Compliance plate to weigh bridge
    Weight in at 190Kgs - cool
    Take to Inspection place - advised VIN must be stamped and FITTED to the trailer - I had to take the plate next door to get stamped but the guys didn't have pop rivet gun - back home again. Drill & Pop plate - (The guys were at least able to stamp the Tare wieght for me)

    Return to inspection - Now I would have thought someone would take me, ask me questions, get a ruler out, etc. etc. Nope - walked around. looked under, jumped up and down on, and came back and said "You haven't stamped or weld the VIN on the trailer." - That's all he was concerned about. Told him I'd weld it on when I got it home.

    Thing is you need to get the trailer weighed, VIN plate stamped and fitted prior to going to the inspection station - which if I'd know that order first - would have saved a long turn around trip and could have used a closer weight station - either that or take your stamp kit/drill/pop rivets/gun to the Inspection station.

    Once he'd passed it/rubber stamped - took the inspection/rego approval to Service SA,
    Cost to Register $108
    Cost to Inspect $58

    Rego - Done.

  13. #42
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    May 2012
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Nice work, where did you get the inspection done?
    Hopefully I'll have mine ready for an inspection in a few weeks.

  14. #43
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    Aug 2008
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    Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avitus View Post
    Nice work, where did you get the inspection done?
    Hopefully I'll have mine ready for an inspection in a few weeks.
    Get your Permit from Service SA for $7 for the day, can be done before hand. (You'll need your VIN to write down).

    Inspected at Lonsdale U2/7 Ellemsea Cct, Only open Wed/Thur between 9-12.30pm & 1-3pm, No bookings - First come first serve, don't leave it too late in the day as being gov workers they will want to go home at 3pm

    ... also if you take it early, if they find something not right, the permit last till midnight, so you can get home fix it and get back on get second shot at it on the same day.
    Last edited by Wood66; 7th July 2012 at 10:19 AM. Reason: additional info

  15. #44
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    Aug 2008
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    Adelaide
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    Bit more.... floor is in although I need to add a few more lugs for securing the plywood I ran out last weekend before I got the wood.

    So the floor is basically done and the lining for the ramp also.

    This is the first couple of photos with 1 of the bikes up on the trailer. I have to add on tiedown points and the front L-Channel for the front wheels yet.

  16. #45
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default Finished and Tested

    Well those that are reading... Finally got both the bikes up, (since then I've added/altered the tie down points but no photos of that).

    As is, trailer what hooked to the commodore is 690kg at the trailer wheels, and no real bum sag on the car, so I figured it had to be less than 70kg on the ball. Tows nice, no weave or rattle on the ball, wind doesn't push it around. Covered 400 km on first outing, all good, no issues to report.

    These photos are prior to the first road run and the additional tie downs I added later.IMG_0242web.jpgIMG_0243web.jpgIMG_0244web.jpg

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