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  1. #1
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    Default Muti-purpose bike trailer - reconfiguring

    A progress report on a task set by my son....
    He is about to move from Kerang to Townsville for work. He's also an endurance motorcycling nut. And he is moving in 3 weeks....
    So he bought a 9x5 single axle trailer (with electric brakes as it happened) that had a removable mesh extension about a foot high already built on.
    The brief was to design and construct a lockable superstructure high enough for motorcycles, convenient access to put one to three bikes in securely located, have a roof against rain, mesh sides for some cross-wind tolerance, sloping front to reduce towing load....
    In addition, I managed to keep the whole thing removable - so that the trailer can revert to a simple box trailer, although it would need to lifted off with a chain block or a forklift.
    I made the roof both hinged at the front for easy access for tying down the bike(s) and getting at stuff stacked around, and completely removable for tall loads (like a fridge or whatever) by using hinges with removable pins.
    The rear access has a top hinged hatch that can fold either horizontal - e.g. for some shade to sit on the tailgate - or fold flat onto the roof.
    So far the frame is completed as planned. All the frame is made from 30x30x2.0 gal RHS. I intend to fit gas springs once I know how heavy the roof is with cladding attached. A stay will also be fitted to hold the rear top door horizontal. The bike rack (just front wheel channels really) is also removable.
    I'll post progress as I get there.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Well, as good as finished now:
    Once all the mesh was welded in and the frame finished, we gave the whole thing a thorough cleanup, then sprayed all galvanised metal with etch primer, the welds and any clean metal and claned up rust spots with cold gal primer. Once dry, the entire structure got a spray with "trailer blue" hammerite. Looked like a new one.
    One of the photos show the mesh rack I made and welded to the drawbar. It can carry the spare or is convenient to tie other gear to.
    By this stage, all the sheet metal parts were done and got etch primed and some gloss white epoxy enamel.
    We decided to pop rivet all the sheet metal on, using 4mm zinc plated steel rivets. The surfaces that the sheets metal panels rested on got a bead of silicone a few minutes before we placed and clamped them in postion. The idea is to have them supported along their entire edges so they won't ratrle as much and wear the rivets through. TIme will tell if that theory works....
    The gas springs we ended up using were 5kN each and lift and hold the roof up once it's lifed a little by hand. I set them up over centre, so then also hold the roof down once closed.
    All in all a very successful conversion. It seems to tow very well but the additional wind resistance can certainly be felt!
    My son leaves on his 3000km trip next Tuesday. I'll be interested to see how it all stands up to a marathon road test
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  4. #3
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Nice work Joe.

    My only concern would be with the sloping front restricting how much larger, heavy stuff gets loaded in front of the axle. The last thing you need part way through (or even the start of) a 3000Km trip is a trailer that won't tow without trying to swap ends with you because there's not enough ball weight.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  5. #4
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    Thanks Yonnee.
    Both my son and I know the problem very well. He will make sure he has sufficient weight on the front. The sloping front was chosen to reduce wind resistance. He's actually taken it for a longish drive this weekend with a couple of motorbikes on board (he's racing tomorrow). I'll find out in the afternoon how it went.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  6. #5
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    Great work Joe. Only thing I can suggest is change the pop rivets for TEK screws. I built a canopy for my works trailer and used 3/16" stainless pop rivets and kept shearing them off. I changed to TEK screws and never had another problem. Mind you the trailer has done over 70,000 K's. The doors are made from 2400x1200x1.6mm black sheet mounted to 40x40x 2.0 box so maybe you wont have a problem. Mine might have been too rigid for the pop rivets.

    Phil

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