Thread: Oy Yonnee!!! YONNEEEEEEEE!!!

Hey 'ol fella, I'm here.

Been under the weather the last few days... bloody flu bug!!

On the mend now, just going to read through what I've missed the last couple of days and reply. Already seen one fix up... but no big deal...

Okay... mmm well done wheelin... sorta makes me pics a bit redundant eh?

ANYWAYS!!!

1) The hubs
2) The inside of the hubs... apparently the ring inside needs to be tapped out and the new ones fitted
3) The larger bearings note the rings these are the right ones ala 2 above
4) The smaller bearings again the rings ala 2 above
5) These Im assuming are the seals? there are only 2
6) The other side of the seals
7) Two spring washers I have no idea their reasons for being
8) The cups
9) The nut on the axle note the washer... so whats with the 2 spring washers ala 7 above?

10?? mmmm anyways

Soooo this should be a breeze eh?... a couple of quick easy questions for yous fellas
1) the seals go where EXACTLY? inside outside before after the bearings?
2) the spring washers are they relevant or have I missed something somewhere?

I have no idea why the hubs have a full set of rings already inserted but from what the bloke said the ones in them have to be taken out and the new ones put in... how exactly does one take the things out without marring the surface of the hub itself? Is that important? I mean does it matter a hell of a lot if a few marks are on the hub surface?

So half fill the cups... yes yes READ the damned data wheelin posted Shane!! I will I will right now okay keep yer shirts on!

Cheers
Shane

Originally Posted by Yonnee

Hey 'ol fella, I'm here.

Been under the weather the last few days... bloody flu bug!!

On the mend now, just going to read through what I've missed the last couple of days and reply. Already seen one fix up... but no big deal...

aaaaaaaahhhhhhh geez... aside from good to see yer that is a fix up??? mmm musta cockedup again eh? strewth Im getting right good at that!!

Good to see you finally up and out of bed young fella... ooh right keep forgettin about laptops sooo your still tucked up in bed with the lappy on eh?

Hey!! I just noticed... the wakkers gave me different colored nuts!! Flamin eck now Im gonna have to go back there again... I mean a fella cant have shiney chomey ones AND shiney brassy ones can a fella?

Shane this is fun and I'm not the one getting my hands dirty.

Seals: pic2 shows where the seal goes and it is fitted as per pic 5 the side shown is on the outside there is an outer lip which is for dust and an inner grease seal lip. So after fitting the bearing you tap the seal into the housing/hub the designers where clever enough to make them a slight interference fit in the hub make sure its square, the cone will slop around in there till you slide it on the axle.

Spring Washers: I dunno think they might be a bonus to a VIP customer I'll defer to my collegues on that one.

To remove old cup there should be recesses cast into the hub that will allow you to get a drift in from the other side of the hub and onto the back face of the cup. A few gentle taps around the the cup should knock it out. The reason for care re hub is not to score the housing which may prevent the new cup from sliding square and seated in the hub.

This is becoming an exercise in comprehendable writing something I'm not renowned for.

Keep us posted

This isn't a bad rundown on what's required, but I'd make a couple of changes in Red.

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Fitting Taper Roller Bearings

1. Unpack the bearings & cup rings from the greased paper.
2. Remove the old bearing cup rings from the hub, use punch and hammer on wooden block. (Sit the hub between two blocks)
3. Wash the hub in paraffin (any solvent will do, just make sure it's dry before re-installing bearings) to ensure that it is clean and free from dirt or shavings.
4. Lightly grease the cup ring surfaces on the hub, and replace the bearing cup rings (2). As m2c1Iw said, be very careful when tapping the cups into the hubs, making sure they seal all the way to the bottom.
5. Clean and lightly grease the stub axle. (Not really necessary to grease the stub)
6. Lightly grease the rear bearing and seal, then slide bearing onto the stub axle. There is no lightly when greasing bearings!! The picture below shows a cup on the left, and a cone on the right. The cone has an inner race (smooth section in the middle), the cage holding the rollers, and the rollers themselves. The gap between the inner race and the cage and roller must be complete full of grease.

• Dob a lump of grease in one palm.
• Stick a finger or two through the centre of the cone.
• Force the bottom edge of the bearing (sitting face down in the pic) onto the edge of the dob of grease, pushing the grease into the cone.
• Continue this until you see grease coming through top of the cone.
• Turn the cone 10 degrees and repeat the last two steps.
• Repeat the last three steps until the whole cone is full of grease.

Yes, it's a messy job!!!

1. Using the dob of grease from your hand, with your finger smear some grease on the face of the cups inside the hubs, and smear some more round the outside of the roller for good measure.
2. Ensure that the rubber seal is properly seated in the rear bearing. (This is where we need to see the seal. There are a couple of different styles, and each one is installed differently. The one piece seal is knocked into the back of the hub after the rear bearing is greased and placed in the hub.)
3. Slide the hub and the front bearing onto the stub axle.
4. Ensure that the rear seal is seated into the hub properly.
5. Fit the washer and castle nut, supplied with the suspension units.
6. Firstly tighten the nut with a spanner/socket to seat the bearings, not as tight as you can phisically get it, but tight.Then slacken off again about 1/2 a turn.
7. Then re-tighten until you feel it "nip".
8. Next tighten the nut till the next split pin hole, and fit the split pin.
9. Rotate the hub a few times.
10. You should feel very slight play when the wheel is fitted. (Not on a trailer...)

I've deleted the last couple as most of our hubs in Australia don't have grease fittings. One particular exception is the American Dexter range brought into Australia by Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies, but mostly used in special applications. There's also been two opinions as to filling the hub with grease. In most cases it is not necessary and a waste of grease. However... in the case of a boat trailer or Off-road trailer that sees water crossings, it is recommended. If you have air trapped in your hubs, this air will heat up and expand as you travel. The moment you immerse the hubs in water, they cool and the air contracts. But because it's underwater it can't suck air back in, so it sucks in water. If the centre of the hub is completely full of grease, there should be little or no air to be replaced by water. Spring loaded Bearing Buddies also help by keeping a bit of positive pressure in the hub.


Hub and Bearing Maintenance:


It is essential that trailer hubs and bearings are properly maintained; regularly top up the grease using a grease gun. Once a year, remove the hubs altogether and wash them out with paraffin, repack as above.
Marine trailers especially those subjected to saltwater, submerged or not, must be repacked at the end of the season, plus at least once during the season. Salt and sand ingress through the breather hole (There is no breather hole in our Australian hubs.) as the hubs cool down, the salt (It is the water that mixes with and emulsifies the grease, rendering it useless, the sand particles (unlikely) added to this emulsion, produce an abrasive paste, instead of an effective lubricant, bearing failure!
Use water repellent grease... This is actually not recommended. This sort of grease can solidify and become ineffective on high speed roller bearings. Save your 'waterproof' grease for low speed applications on your boat such as steering joints etc., but use 'water resistant' grease specially designed for trailer bearings.
(There's a difference... Water resistant grease will not readily mix with water, but will eventually, Waterproof grease will not mix at all, unless in extreme circumstances.)

Marine Trailer bearing life can be further extended using Bearing Buddies - HGB01.
Taper Bearing Hub Assembly

Nah, no laptop. Had to drag my sorry backside out of bed, just to what Dingo's up to.

See all stuff in Red.

Originally Posted by Wild Dingo

Okay... mmm well done wheelin... sorta makes me pics a bit redundant eh?

ANYWAYS!!!

1) The hubs
2) The inside of the hubs... apparently the ring (cup) inside needs to be tapped out and the new ones fitted
3) The larger bearings note the rings (Cups) these are the right ones ala 2 above
4) The smaller bearings again the rings (cups) ala 2 above
5) These Im assuming are the seals? there are only 2 Correct!
6) The other side of the seals
7) Two spring washers I have no idea their reasons for being They are for either the U-bolts or the bolts in the spring eye. You may have gotten a couple of extras thrown in. Keep them, they might be handy one day.
8) The cups (Caps)
9) The nut on the axle note the washer... so whats with the 2 spring washers ala 7 above?

10?? mmmm anyways (See reply to #7)

Soooo this should be a breeze eh?... a couple of quick easy questions for yous fellas
1) the seals go where EXACTLY? inside outside before after the bearings?
After you've replaced the cups and greased the bearings, the inner bearings go into the hubs, followed by the seal. Use a lump of 2B4 to bang them in flush with the top of the hub. Turn the hub over and drop in the greased outer bearing and flat washer, and slide the whole lot onto the axle.
2) the spring washers are they relevant or have I missed something somewhere?

I have no idea why the hubs have a full set of rings already inserted but from what the bloke said the ones in them have to be taken out and the new ones put in...
Usually, when you put 4 stud rims on a trailer, the bearings are only rated for a tonne (1000Kg), But you have a "Slimline" axle, which means it runs Falcon front bearings ('bout the only thing a Ford's good for) and is rated to 1400Kg.
how exactly does one take the things out without marring the surface of the hub itself? Is that important? I mean does it matter a hell of a lot if a few marks are on the hub surface? Not really, it's the cup surface you have to be very careful with.

So half fill the cups... yes yes READ the damned data wheelin posted Shane!! I will I will right now okay keep yer shirts on!

Cheers
Shane

Now, the bit I said before that was no big deal... Normally the U-bolts go round the axle, and the hole in the middle of the multi-holed plate lines up with the bolt in the middle of the spring.

Another tip... Run your tape measure from the tips of your axle to the centre of your coupling plate. This makes sure your axle is square with the trailer and the trailer won't follow you down the street sideways.You can loosen the U-bolts and adjust if required.

Also, If you're going back to swap your coloured nuts, then get another 8 nuts for the U-bolts. Double them up and lock them together. Corrugations will undo even the tightest of nuts.

Have moved jatt's posts to a thread of their own here

DJ
Administrator
Woodworking Australia's
WOODWORK FORUMS

Hey Yonnee recon Shane is having a bit of a lend of us here being an old bushy and all, probably done more bearing packing, trailer weldin and all sorts than a lot of us.

What he is really doing is leading us through the worlds most complicated tutorial.

Shane I'm on to ya mate

Mike

Sorry Shane had to go out

Thanks Yonnee for taking over hope your better soon have seen this take down the best of them for up to two weeks and apparently people are still contagious for 24 hrs after last signs of it

so you got it sorted yet laptop situated where you can see instructions clearly.

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Hey Yonnee recon Shane is having a bit of a lend of us here being an old bushy and all, probably done more bearing packing, trailer weldin and all sorts than a lot of us.

What he is really doing is leading us through the worlds most complicated tutorial.

Shane I'm on to ya mate

Mike

More likely he's turned up a bearing from a piece of redgum, and made his own grease from chewed up wild berries.

Originally Posted by Yonnee

Now, the bit I said before that was no big deal... Normally the U-bolts go round the axle, and the hole in the middle of the multi-holed plate lines up with the bolt in the middle of the spring.

oooohhh duhhhhh!!! damned white hair is makin me look more and more blonde every day!

Another tip... Run your tape measure from the tips of your axle to the centre of your coupling plate. This makes sure your axle is square with the trailer and the trailer won't follow you down the street sideways.You can loosen the U-bolts and adjust if required.

coupling plate?? that be the square plate thingy that Ive not got to turn assup eh?... right you are!!

Also, If you're going back to swap your coloured nuts, then get another 8 nuts for the U-bolts. Double them up and lock them together. Corrugations will undo even the tightest of nuts.

nah wasnt gonna kinda like the psychadelic look but am thinking thats not a bad idea after all

Me? Make a trailer before??? Not friggin likely!! More like wrecked a few and chucked the carcass out and just bought a newy

Ive got a theory bout mechanics and welders and such... they are a breed that are genetically modified BEFORE they leave the womb... they are born to understand all this rot whereas us mere mortals and normal peoples well we are smart we PAY them to get covered in greese oil and black metal crap along with knicking bark of their hands drop burning splatters on their legs arms hands heads etc etc etc ... yep a breed apart are fellas like our yon young Yonnee ... me Im just enjoyin gettin me hands dirty tryin to muddle through this thing

Not much for the mechanical welding side of things... just its sorta like being around heavy machines to me... the smell of diesel turns me on!!! as does the smell of burnin molten metal... horney stuff nah its just fun thats all... tryin to do a good job when you have no friggin idea what the bloody hell your doin is a hoot!!

Thanks for the vote of confidence ol' fella.

Aside from the little slip-ups, you're doin' a rippa job.

No wukkers young fella!

Me an the young fella wandered out to the shed and with a LOT of serious struggles turned the damned thing upside down again and turned the plates and U bolts around the right way only just tight for now once I get another chance at it I will do the measure thing again with Josh giving me a hand to hold the damned flexible tape still... always a bit of an issue when your on your pat malone

so that wee issues now a non event... easy eh!

So I'll get some of that greese during the week after work... cause the only greese Ive got out there is stuff thats followed me around for nigh on 15 years!... and shall we say not sooo good now? Time to get some new stuff I reckon

Didnt get time today to drill the holes for the bolts for the tow hitch so that will I think be first... then I'll get josh to assist with the measure stuff then tighten the bolts up and once thats done depending on when I can get hold of Ben (burly young buggar that fella strong as the proverbial ox) we'll turn it right side up again and do the fitting of the hubs as per all the above ... then its just a final weldment of the end caps (yet to be fabricated) on the 4x2 RHS to as wheelin rightly suggested to keep the dust and water out on our journeys a bit of that galvanising spray paint stuff and bobs yer flamin uncle!

THEN!!!... its out of the shed with the new ubloodybeaut trailer subframe and while Joshy gets stuck into some much enjoyed pen making on his nifty little lathe I will set the camper up and get stuck into drilling out the pop rivets so the camper comes off... then its move all the tools and paraphenalia from one side of the shed to the other leaving a runway through... then make a load sharing thingy for the engine crane and lift the camper off the old subframe into the air... drag said old subframe outside next to the shed and bring in the new buggar aim it under the camper slide a new sheet of 8x4 inch ply in place slather it with epoxy and steady steady lower the camper into place a bit of wriggles a bit of wiggles and whallah!! she will stick fast... then open her up again get inside and tek screw the whole thing to the sub frame!!

ALL DONE!!

Sounds bloody easy doesnt it!! Then all I have to do is work out the jigsaw puzzle that is the frame work for the annex and try to get that part sorted... then its a "simple" matter of wriggling and grunting the zips back over to the right side of the damned thing and all should be goodoh to buggar off

Anyway will come back and update as work progresses over the next week or so... Got the kids this week dontcha know! Doin STUFF with them but will escape to the shed as and when I can

For now thanks fellas!!... ahem... sorry its turning into such an adventure eh? cant help meself Im afraid Just take heart in the fact that in person Im actually a quiet retiring sorta fella real quiet and you'd have to squeeze the buggary outta me to get me to say half a dozen words... well beer helps or bein a sexy short wheeled based blonde... brunette... raven... auburn... redhead... oooh heck bein a flamin sheila helps lots!!

Cheers
Shane

Oh... and was just thinking about that old subframe... you reckon that pressed steel is not ali Yonnee?... Im thinking of converting it into a canoe carrier trailer just make some racks and it should be good to go eh?... mmmm thinking here now IF I make this right I COULD have a boat rack on the lower section for the wee 12ft fibreglass pos that Jos dad was going to throw out but seemed to follow me home when they sold the place in Australind... we could make it so that slides in first on the bottom then say 4 racks for 4 canoes above that?... the heaviest thing on it would be the pos as the canoes will be light weight

Whatcha reckon?... well its the only thing at present I can think of for the thing... mmmm mind you I will probably have to up the ante on the size of the wheels for that too eh? ... and around and around we go!!!

Anyways during all that Im gonna have to get this place sorted cleaned up and ready to sell while trying to get it transferred into my name while looking for another bedderah house over near the coast a bit more with less work and newer styling while working my ass off at a job that I enjoy immensely but the hours and manual labor are knocking me stupid doing while having the nippers every second week while waiting to be a poppy for the 4th then 5th time while keeping my head above water with the bills which by the way due to the delay in job arrival have sorta accumulated (strange about that eh? ) and all the other things that make up life around here

Soooo anyways... onwards and upwards... I breathe therefore I am!

Cheers
Shane

PS... get well soon young fella no good bein crook you know cant get any bloody work done bein crook now can yer