Thread: Oy Yonnee!!! YONNEEEEEEEE!!!

Okay more info...

So Ive cut some new cross members but since Im not sure yet just how long I want the tow hitch members I havent cut any more just wanted to show this far and see what you reckon

REMEMBER THIS CAMPER IS LIGHT WEIGHT!!... mmm probly should go check the weight eh?... okay after this

So here it is on the table

1) From the doorway
2) With the axle dry fitted in the CENTRE of the frame work
3) This shows the distance Im going to have from frame to hub
4) 6in either side should be enough for the Prado wheels Im putting on her?
5) The tow hitch lengths up in the rafters theyre 2.4mtrs or there abouts long Im sorta thinking 1.8mtrs so the arm can go back across both the front cross member AND the side members thus giving it double support right?

Okay on this post starts the questions

1) Is 6in distance from the frame to the hub sufficient or too much or okay?

Next post more questions...

Okay onwards and upwards tally ho and all that gumph

So the next series of pics show

The axle and springs moved back from what is the centre of this subframe to the position that they are on the trailer NOW

Now some info before questions okay? NO WUKKERS!!

So Ive measured the locations from the actual setup ON the existing trailer these measurements are INSIDE the back and front cross members as I will leave them on the trailer as they have the plates and connectors on them... so overall length is 79inches... from the front to the centre of hub is 49 1/2inches... from the hub centre to the back is 29 1/2in and there is another 17 1/2in in the dismountable kitchen that taks on the back

So given that... overal from front to back of the trailer including kitchen its 97in... the back of kitchen to the EXISTING hub is 47inches and the front of the trailer to the hub is 49 1/2inches... a difference of 2 1/2inches between the front and back from the hub centre... and the width is 4ft exactly this will be the new subframe width the old one is quite simply rather weird (3 lengthwise thin ally C channel connect to front and back thin ally C channel... weird )

Soooo

1) Do I need to cut at least one centre cross member?
2) Are the four triangle peices enough support given the location of the axle once setup in this posts location?
3) What is an optimum length for the two tow hitch members?
4) The 6in space from the side to the hub is allowable or must I go change the ruddy axle for a shorter one? Damned if I want to as this way the tyre will be OUTSIDE the camper which is WAY BEDDERAH in my book!... and I can then add some frame work for jerry cans and such
5) Im planning on fabricating a couple of wheel arches from ally (is that upta scratch or must they be steel?
5) AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK???

ahem... as I havent yet started welding I thought it might be sorta along the lines of smartish to actually ask some buggar instead of just going hell for leather and mucking up... as usual

Any other info you reckon I need to know just say so... I can take it... I think? maybe? anyway post away mate...

oooh the weight!

250Kg TARE
450Kg Gross

No Aggregate just those two... mmm and interestingly not on the tow hitch members but on plates attached to the front cross member... mmm and I THINK I maybe could have but might not have noticed that it has the damned stupid 10in tyre size engraved on the thing as well... DAMN!!! Flamin pommy gits! oh well will just have to do a fine job and take it to the ruddy licensing centre and get an upgrade on it

OH! And the reasoning for changing the subframe and wheels?... well the tow hitch itself is bloody obvious its a POS... but the others? Well I wouldnt take this trailer as it is ANYWHERE as it is!! just in and out of the shed... Intention is to take it camping off road at Christmas with the nippers and as it is it wouldnt go up the Wellington dam roads without falling apart at the seems... so beef her up Shane beef her up!!

Anyway there we are at present... hopefully you or someone else will let me know the answers BEFORE I get antsy and go weld the thing up!!

Cheers
Shane

Oh and it will have the same Landcruiser Prado rims and tyres as the Prado has when done this should mean the camper will actually sit level with the Prado when travelling instead of the present scaping its kitchen along the road... not good eh

Tap tap tap... come on yer dopey git!! get yer finga out migs sittin there waitin screamin yellin coooeeeeeeeeeing all over the shed to start!! Im tempted Im BADLY tempted to just go for broke!!

tum te tum tiddle te dum diddle de mmmmmm okay gonna go do somethin!!... nah will wait a bit weld up will be tomorrow... or maybe this arvo??

Im in the mood to bang crash burn an weld somethin!!

Hopefully Dingo, he's up to his armpts welding up my Dusty enclosure, so if the be the case then you'll just have to wait to cotton picking' turn.

And besides I like to have a perv at what you're up to.

OK, having just sat down for some lunch, I thought, 'I'll just log on and have a look..'

...Crikey!! You don't muck around do ya Dingo??

Firstly, Waldo. Yes, yours is coming along. Won't be long now.

Now, Dingo.

a) That coupling is a pressed steel, German made (Al-Ko) coupling that's rated to 750Kg. It's a good little coupling if you're not carrying over that weight. If you feel you need to change it, by all means go ahead. Keep the other one though, great for a tinny trailer.

b) The distance from the chassis to the hub face (where the wheel bolts up) is determined by the offset of the wheel and tyre combo. Grab one of your wheels and run a measuring stick from the inside face where the wheel meets the hub, to the inside wall of the tyre. If this is 4-1/2 inches or less, we're in business. 4-1/2 to 5 inches will be very close, and any more than that will need a longer axle.

c) Not a bad chassis design... considering the size of the bloody chassis material!! Couldn't you get any bigger??
I think you'd get away with not having any other cross beams.

d) The minimum you want is a 4 foot drawbar from the front of the body to the towball. More ideal is closer to 5 foot.

e) Mudguards can be made from whatever you like. The reg's only state that they must cover the tyres, not what they're made from.

f) I didn't tell you this, but you could, in theory, get another V.I.N. plate, copy all the details from the old one and put the new rim & tyre size.

However, the rim & tyre specs on the VIN plate are a minimum. The reg's say you can go bigger, but not smaller.


OK, that should do you for now.

Back to Waldo's job...

Hang on a tick dont go runnin of so flamin fast yer wombat!! Strewth dontcha know a blokes GOTTA KNOW???

Okay so Ive been sorta upta no good as I said I would if you didnt hurry along... anyway

1) ahem... Ive cut a centre cross member
2) here you can see how the draw bar will sit on the framework. the draw bar is 1.2mtrs from front of chassis to the end of the two bars (where they join) once plate is cut and fabricated Im guessing another 10cm might be gained so all up 1.3mtrs... as you can see Ive taken the bars back over both front and side rails and it sets back 17in from the front (maybe I can snuffle another couple of inches by bringing it forward a few to make up the 1.4mtrs?)
3) Another angle
4) The meatier tow hitch
5) sitting on the 1/4in plate that will make its seat
6) Nice eh?

Why did I go so beafy? Well the next post will show you what I based it on

The prototype Im following... sorta... a little bit... you know grab an idea here grab an idea there that sorta thing oooh and that cage? that was me first ever welding job with a mig! And its got some SERIOUS BEEFED UP GATES!!... dropped one of the first ones I made half way between Perth and Kalgoorlie when we drove up to pick up the daughters gear a fair few months back... so made some new ubeaut ones... 80 times BEEFIER they are NOT going anywheres!!

8x5 tandem... the drawbar is where I got the idea for the 4x2 frame... DAMN! Nothin aint gonna shake this buggar apart by the time Im done!

Although I am less than impressed with the connections short peices of metal welded to both the draw bar and the body of the trailer!... weird eh? Im buggared if I know about yous mob that fabricate trailers for a living BEEF EM UP I SAY!!

Mind you this thing is well over 15 years old and has had a hard life and what with my own changes to her since I got her shes had it tuff and shes still going strong... maybe its just me?

Just wait till I start on me saw table!!! gonna find and have 8x4 steel goin every whichaway!! god I do like heavy duty stuff

Okay gonna buggar of into the sea tainer and check the size of the offsets of the rim/tyres

Looking good!

There's a difference between those that make them for a living, and those that do them properly!!

Okay... seems Im now NOT a happy camper ...The offset is... 6 1/2in

BUT!!! BE AFRAID!! Be VERY afraid... see I have hatched a plan... BUT... a question first

With the bare axle the hub rests right up against the square section right or wrong?... this could maybe make a difference to my said "plan"

So anyways rather than going mental trying to find the sodding reciept which could be flamin well ANYWHERE!!... so I can swap the axle Im thinking go ahead ANYWAY and just cut the arch away on the sides of the camper!! Why not he says?... where the existing wheel is the arch above it is a void and either side is a storage unit... sooooo Im thinking cut the arch away see if thats enough room if so fabricate a wheel arch and whalla bobs yer uncle... if not then cut some more away and even if I cut into the storage bins it doesnt matter a hell of a lot I'll just cut and bung some new ends in and if that doesnt work... well... well then... then I will just have to come up with plan C thats all

Given the serious increase in height offered by the 4x2 frame and the new springs Im thinking its going to come close anyway with just a bit of cutting of the sides and some wheel arches it should maybe do the trick?... damned if I know but hell its a barrel of fun getting this far!!

Anyway I will go ahead and get this part done to the axle fitting then see whats what eh? Sounds the go right?? RIGHT??? gawd flamin Waldo and his silly "unimportant" little cyclone thingy strewth dont fellas know when a blokes on a flamin mission around here or what!!

Wait my turn??? IT IS MY TURN YER WOMBAT!! See hes answerin me aint yer Yonnee me ol mate cobber pal

I was just thinking... yeah I know dangerous stuff that thinking caper... but I was thinking if and I do say IF it ends up that I have to get another axle what length you reckon I should go for? this ones supposed to be 4ft but isnt so what yer reckon 5ft or 6ft? Yer the hexpert ol son... Im just as likely to go back there and swap it over for another the damned same size!! Yob that I am

oooh and you mentioned a vin plate? Where would one if one was so inclined get one of them plates?

Strewth... now I gotta wait again whats an poor wee impatient fella meant to do eh? kick back an wait?? strike me roan... sigh... ah well I will just go ponder me navel out in the shed while I pick me nose waitin

Now I told yer NOT to leave me alone for too long... now look what you got me thinking of doing!!!

Sooo Ive hatched plan C... if this dont work I'll bloody well hatch plan D and really muck things up!!

So I was thinking... presently as it is the trailer sits 6in above the centre of the hub... now with the new as described above subframe setup it will be 11 inches above the centre of the new hub... SOOOOOO!!! Cause I was left to me own divices I went and did a bit of navel scratchin nose pickin gonand twistin out there in the shed (bein a right sorta Aussie fella I can do that ) And I come up with this rip snorter of a plan

So yer reckon this would work? Be parellel with the draw bar before the springs but thats cool right?... but it would give me 15 inches from the base of the camper to the centre of the hub!!! Of course it will need some straps from the subframe to the new spring 4x2 but thats cool gots some 1/4in and 1/2in steel strappin out there no worries a bit more welding a bit more antsin around but still it would work... wouldnt it???

Now Ive done the centre cross member which apparently I didnt need I reckon leave that buggar in and take out the two front angle peices and weld them where you see it here in plan C... I was also thinking of maybe running some more across from side to side you know in the middle of these new bits? Give it some side to side bracing Im thinking since with the strapping it would have vertical bracing maybe it will need side to side?... mmmm time to shoot out there again rub me eyesockets scratch me noggin lick me lips and think of plan D

mmmm else just kick back give it a miss for the day and crack a beer? well its past beer oclock!! Saturday session starts at 12 midday dont it?... sigh and I was hoping to get something done today too... flamin Waldo

Come on Yonnee!! Before I come up with plan D E F AND BLOODY G!!!

How's the navel lookin' like Dingo. The trailer's lookin good. It's ah ard thing when you want to go like the clappers but it's the thinking stuff that slows you down and has you scratching your head.

Should've grabbed a beer a while back and sat down for the show. But I'm pondering and thinking how to best cut up a cube of spotted gum plank by plank to get the best cut out of it - near 400 cuts, it's taking me ages of thinking.