Thread: Repainting Ute Tray

Here's a couple of options . . .
Check out 7 postings down in this thread, where this paint gets a good wrap.

Penetrol CIP primer is well worth checking out too (IMHO)
Cheers.

been using Wattyl super etch when painting frames recently. Seems to hang on quite well.

But would ask 1st before using on rusty bits

I painted a rusted trailer with Rust Guard 3 years ago and sold it recently with almost no signs of rust.

I'm happy enough with it I'm painting my new trailer with it before it gets too rusty.

Thanks for all the replies - that Por15 stuff looks pretty damn good - I'll have to check it out.

One thing I've found previosuly is that while etch primer does seem to bond to steel really well, the next coat of paint (Rust Guard) doesn't seem to bond with the primer that well, almost like it's too smooth or something, which isn't really what you want from primer.

That said, last time I tried this, it might have been a bit on the cold side (Canberra winter) so maybe the solvents in the paint didn't do their job or something?

I also use POR 15 and it's brilliant. But!

Their rust paint doesn't go too well on clean metal or painted surfaces.

Additionally it isn't UV stable so it needs a top coat to protect it from the sun.

I find it works best on slightly rusty surfacrs that haven't been painted previously.

Also it isn't cheap, if price is a motivator.

Depends I suppose on how much you want to spend on the paint system. I think White Knight Rust Guard system would be very effective and reasonable cost. They recommend that for severe conditions to prime steel with White Knight Metal Primer. They recommend their True Bite or SLS Etch Primer for Galvanised iron and other non ferrous metal surfaces.
Try to only paint in good conditions, ie, between 10 and 30 degrees C and low humidity, warming up metal in the sun also helps dry the steel out.
I personally would stick with one companies paint system including their recommended thinner if spray painting.

Also, a well respected brand is Galmet paints, specifically for your purpose their Rustpaint.
Bit of history here
galmet.co.nz - History of Galmet

Info here
ITW Home Page

Paint info
Rustpaint

Technical data pdf file here for recommended preparation and priming
http://www.itwpf.com.au/galmet/pdfs/...ta/109_tds.pdf

Though I have no quantitative proof I feel that Galmet Rustpaint goes hard quicker than White Knight Rust Guard. I used both brands recently side by side and it just seemed that the White Knight Rust Guard was softer for longer.

Watyl Killrust is also another good choice.

Cheers

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

While I've got the etch primer mainly for prepping Duragal, it does say on the can it can be used for steel, and it does seem to bond extremely well to it and sets up nice and hard. The only problem I've had previously is the next coat not sticking to it

Thanks for the pointers to other similar products, Rust Guard is convenient as Bunnings have it, but there's plenty of paint places near me, so I should be able to find alternatives - I'd certainly wouldn't mind something that sets up a bit faster than Rust Guard.

As for Por 15, not being UV stable and requiring a top coat makes it seem a bit more effort and expense than it's probably worth for this application - I also wonder if the top coat as tough as the base coats? That said, I think I will try it out on an ageing mower deck to see if it lasts any longer than every other paint I've tried.

POR's top coat is called toughcote and it does set very hard and is extremely chip resistant.

You need to sand the POR base coat to let the top coat key so that's more work as well.

This is why I'll use the rustguard as well.

As i Have gotten older I just can't be bothered painting these days.

I have all the gear but its just so much effort to get a top quality finish.
I'll admit i'm very pedantic when it comes to paint finish.

These days virtually everything I make in steel gets sand blasted and powder coated.

By the time I add up the cost of paint, preparation and time I'm always miles ahead with powder coating.

I drop stuff off on a Monday morning after completing a project then pick it up on the following Saturday.

Cheers

Justin

Originally Posted by Jarh73

These days virtually everything I make in steel gets sand blasted and powder coated.

I did this once for a pallet scale I made - went to the sandblasters for blasting and zinc primer, then off to the powdercoaters.

Definitely less work, but for this ute tray I'd have to remove it from the chassis (and the two gas tanks + plumbing hanging off it), remove the timber deck and then cart it off. Doable, but I'm not sure if this vehicle is quite worth that level of effort.

Yeah ben known to send off some stuff at work to the powercoaters, especially extruded ally bits. Unfortunately of course its not always practical to do so. Definetely a good time saver tho for a lot of things.

Bear in mind powdercoat is quite easilly damaged by dragging stuff over it.

Once damaged rust propogates under it.

... and some powder coating finishes are porous too.

I like this http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/pr...s?product=2288
Or Durabild which is very tough and can be used as a filler coat. Both 2 part epoxies so not cheap, about $110 for 4 litres(total 6)