Thread: Shed door

If it's warping, it hasn't been tacked enough or you're either not doing consistent welds, too much heat or welding out of order.

I use sawhorses on an uneven gravel yard and can consistently get flat square frames.

Originally Posted by Marc

Extra packing 25x25x2 against the verticals to allow for fixing the ply

As soon as you add these, they're not just something to fix the ply to, they also add strength to the profile, meaning you can use less for the outer elements. This is my quick-arsed sketchup of my take on it:
door.jpg

The outer is all 50x25, as are the diagonals, the inner is 25x25. Should make for a crazy-strong door, particularly once the ply is added.

Originally Posted by RustyArc

As soon as you add these, they're not just something to fix the ply to, they also add strength to the profile, meaning you can use less for the outer elements. This is my quick-arsed sketchup of my take on it:
door.jpg

The outer is all 50x25, as are the diagonals, the inner is 25x25. Should make for a crazy-strong door, particularly once the ply is added.

Yes, that would take care of the joint in the plywood!

I know this is just academic but why the diagonals one up one down? Wouldn't you want the diagonals both upwards from the hinge up that is?

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

If it's warping, it hasn't been tacked enough or you're either not doing consistent welds, too much heat or welding out of order.

I use sawhorses on an uneven gravel yard and can consistently get flat square frames.

Now you are getting technical. Tacking I understand, consistent welding too, but out of order?
What is the correct order?

It's all about using the next weld to counteract against the previous weld.

Just a quick sketch to to give you an idea.

image.jpg

Starting at one through to ten, weld the face, flip over and start from one through to ten again on the other face. Same again for inside and outside welds.

Originally Posted by Marc

I know this is just academic but why the diagonals one up one down? Wouldn't you want the diagonals both upwards from the hinge up that is?

I actually have no idea. I guess one argument is the diagonals transfer the load of the door to near the hinges, so the bottom diagonal is in compression and pushing against the bottom hinge, the top diagonal is in tension and pulling against the top hinge.