Stainless Steel Welding Trolley

**Jarh73** · 25th April 2012, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

SS has some characteristics that need to be taken into account when working with it. Distortion and spatter being just two. Gas will make very little difference to distortion, but will affect spatter to some degree. To be honest what you are doing really is Tig territory, ( I understand and accept that you are using what you have), you will always fight the spatter enemy, even with a .00 pulse mig.
SS is a much slower material to fabricate with for these reasons.

Agreed on all points it's ideally a TIG job but to be honest it's come up really well. Lot of the welds I have left as is, as I think they look good enough.

I have the stainless steel finishing down pat to. I grind flush with grinder using flexible disc then blend with a 80 grit flap wheel and then final finish with 120 flap wheel. Flap wheel on a drill.

Trolley was a challenge more than anything else so in off the deep end. It's not perfect by any means I know the faults but that's all part of the learning curve. To the casual observer it looks pretty good. Just gotta keep the professionals from looking

Cheers

Justin

**Jarh73** · 17th May 2012, 09:16 AM

Quick update:

Finally got the drawers done!

Tuesday night I glued the SS fronts to the melamine drawers and last night I slotted them into the trolley.

The handles are solid stainless ones I got from Bunnings but instead of using the crappy screws they came with I drilled and tapped the handles to M6 and used proper bolts and larger flat washers.

Handles are going nowhere!

Really quite happy how it has turned out.

Cheers

Justin

**BobL** · 17th May 2012, 10:09 AM

Looks excellent!

**fubar** · 17th May 2012, 10:14 AM

for finishing rather than the abrasive pad in drill have a look at a roll lock system Roloc Back-Up Pad 45092 - 75mm dia x 1/4in Female thread fits into drill or you can make up a shaft that screws into an angle grinder and you get great results much more controllable

**Jarh73** · 17th May 2012, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by fubar

for finishing rather than the abrasive pad in drill have a look at a roll lock system Roloc Back-Up Pad 45092 - 75mm dia x 1/4in Female thread fits into drill or you can make up a shaft that screws into an angle grinder and you get great results much more controllable

All advice taken on board, will look into that!

Cheers

Justin

**Pete012** · 24th May 2012, 09:59 PM

Use stainless wire brush.

**Log** · 26th May 2012, 05:41 PM

Noice from me too, actually VERY noice.

I like the electrics

, plenty of power outlets handy.
Do you think you've finished it now or are there other thoughts coming for it.

Cheers.

**Jarh73** · 26th May 2012, 09:15 PM

Originally Posted by Log

Noice from me too, actually VERY noice.

I like the electrics

, plenty of power outlets handy.
Do you think you've finished it now or are there other thoughts coming for it.

Cheers.

Starting to actually use it now!

It's finished for the moment but I'm looking at a couple of things.

1) some sort of tallish post to hold the leads up out of the way instead of wrapping around. Tall post just creates a larger single loop.
2) some kind of lock for the drawers for when being transported.
3) some dividers for inside the drawers.

Few mates commented about the power points asking why I needed 4, you can never have to many power points! I find if I'm welding I'll have at least a grinder or two (one with a cutting disc the other with a flexible disc), drill with wire brush and the cut off saw nearby.

My old welder I installed just a double GPO and I was still swapping plugs so this time I went the whole hog.

Cheers

Justin

**steran50** · 24th June 2012, 09:37 PM

HI

,
That Looks Great or should I say Noice

. I have actually just started to make an Aluminium Trolley for My AC/DC Tig Welder. I have only got as far as Cutting some of Square Tube out. Seeing Yours has given Me a few good Ideas. I will Post some Pictures of Mine as I get into it.

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