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Thread: Tandem Box trailer questions
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29th August 2011, 01:07 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Tandem Box trailer questions
I've decided I would like to build a tandem box trailer that will be used for general trailer stuff as well as moving my compact tractor (900kg roughly) up to our new block for working on weekends.
First question is about wheels.
I have some rims and tyres from a mitsubishi ralliart sitting in the shed doing nothing. They are 18 x 7 (+46mm offset) with a 215/45R18 (89W) tyre which is a bit unusual to have on a basic trailer but they are free and look good.
Stud pattern is 5/114.3 (Falcon?) and the center hole looks to be 65-66mm. Overall diameter and offset is close to late model falcon from what I can tell so swapping later on should be ok if need be.
Would it be ok to use them?Dan
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29th August 2011, 11:00 PM #2Senior Member
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No reason not to.
The only thing to keep in mind is how far apart you space the axles.
I use a mates car trailer and the tyres are low profile (40 series) and about 800mm apart.
When backing or turning at a a round-about you can see the the load on the wheels distorting them.
This can't be doing the wheel bearings any favours,
I would tend to space the axles as close together as possible.
I have a tandem trailer with 900mm axle spacing and the tyres squeal on round-abouts so they'er too far apart as well.
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30th August 2011, 01:22 PM #3
Bugger!! I wish I was in QLD, I'd do a deal with you for the Lancer wheels for my Missus' car.
The only thing you'd have to check using those wheels would be the hole clearance all the way through for the trailer hub snout. It sticks out much further than the original Lancer hubs, so even though the centre hole is fine at 66mm, it needs to be minimum 60mm all the way through the centre cap. (And you wont be able to refit the Lacer centre cap in the rim either)Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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30th August 2011, 01:42 PM #4
If you're buying "off the shelf" trailer suspension, then you don't have much control over how far apart the axles are spaced. The length of the springs, the location of the centre bolt in the spring pack, and the position of the associated hangers are what determine the axle spacing. The axles in a Tandem Rocker suspension are usually further apart than a Slipper suspension just by the nature of the hardware involved in setting the Rocker system up. There are springs available that have the centre spring bolt offset to allow you to close the gap a little, but you need to discuss this with the supplier of the trailer parts you're ordering, as some may not have or even know about the different options available.
Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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30th August 2011, 02:17 PM #5
900 kgs plus weight of trailer add to that road or track conditions, rough terrain, pounding, weight shifting of tandem axles, curbs, pot holes. I have seen low profile rims on lighter cars come off 2nd best in normal conditions
What weight are the rims made for?
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30th August 2011, 05:10 PM #6Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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30th August 2011, 08:24 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for the replies.
Wheels are off my Missus' car
Center hole tapers down to 55mm where the cap fits in in. I think I read somewhere that hubs can be machined slightly if need be?
Wheelin.
Not sure about load rating of rim. Tyres (factory fitted) are rated to 580kg so I'm assuming wheels would be good for at least that.
More questions.
Is tyre and wheel data recorded on compliance plate? If it is, does that mean you can't deviate from the original sizes of wheel/tyre later on?
Will 580kg tyres be ok for a 2t trailer?Dan
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31st August 2011, 03:31 PM #8
They can be machined down as far as 57mm on the snout, and you may find the grease cap a little smaller than this (I'm not near one to measure...).
Wheelin.
Not sure about load rating of rim. Tyres (factory fitted) are rated to 580kg so I'm assuming wheels would be good for at least that.
More questions.
Is tyre and wheel data recorded on compliance plate? If it is, does that mean you can't deviate from the original sizes of wheel/tyre later on?
Will 580kg tyres be ok for a 2t trailer?
But here's the kicker... If you only use Holden bearing'd axles when you build any Tandem with Slipper springs, then technically it can only be rated as having 1667Kg capacity.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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31st August 2011, 09:27 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Yep, was planning on rocker setup and ford bearings. Not sure if I can stretch the budget to brakes all round, even though it would be nice.
Tow vehicle will be Nissan Patrol Ute (coil suspension, 4.2l turbo diesel) and I always thought they were good for 3t or more. But upon checking the sticker on door jamb and tow bar I found it's only good for 2.5t which is still heaps I suppose. Just not what I was expecting.Dan
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1st September 2012, 12:09 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Well it's been a while but trailer is 99% finished.
Lancer wheels didn't work out. After machining hubs to get wheel on they would have required hub-centric rings to locate them because they don't use tapered wheel nuts. It was all getting a bit too complicated. Got some Falcon wheels from wreckers instead
I put a pivoting draw bar on it so it can tip but haven't used/needed it yet.
Eye bolts at each corner inside the box help secure the tractor with ratchet straps.
Wood floor and sides (Iron bark) because I like it.
Axles and springs from Active Fabrications in Brisbane.
Ended up using brakes on all wheels and chucked a breakaway battery on as well.
I haven't used elec brakes before but the Tekonsha P3 seems fairly easy to set up and the whole lot drives like there's no trailer there at all.
It turned out to be a very satisfying project.Dan
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2nd September 2012, 10:21 AM #11
Dan looks shmick
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3rd September 2012, 12:19 AM #12
Looks fantastic for a first time build. Well done!
Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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