Thread: Tipper Trailers

Yeah ben doing some casual research on tippers. HAvent actually built one....yet.

Guy next to the workshop has one; I have total trailer envy

Anyhoo was at Elmore field days and came across a set up supplied by a local hydraulic joint. Called UB KIT put out by mob called Gough Transport Solutions. Havent done any further research here, but it may help u.

Hey, I was at Elmore field days too! (wednesday) Didn't see you there! Elmore is a very very very bad place to go! Saw a tipper trailer there at a hydraulic display and started thinking what if........

Originally Posted by buildspacetrain

Hey, I was at Elmore field days too! (wednesday) Didn't see you there! Elmore is a very very very bad place to go! Saw a tipper trailer there at a hydraulic display and started thinking what if........

Thurs was my big day out. Later in the day some of the stalls mark down stuff so they dont have to cart it home.

Yeah $7500. Think I will be building my own. Did u check out the hydraulic kit next to it?

Will admit some stuff just leaped into my arms.......honest.
Two trips back to the car to cart it all out.
The chainsaw gave me the sad puppy dog look, I just couldnt help myself. Actually was cheaper than the store price back in town, same dealer too. Bonus I get local backup support.

Yes, it's a good day out at Elmore. I go by myself now, after inviting my brother in law who got bored in an hour and wanted to leave. He sprouts about what a great day we had. I don't remember it that way!
I didn't see the hydraulic kit, but thanks for the info on the suppliers.
Looking at a few web sites for tipper ideas.
Cheers.

Originally Posted by buildspacetrain

]who got bored in an hour and wanted to leave.

Yes u must be careful when going along with a mate/relative to such outings. My choice was good, he made an excellent pack horse and was happy to spend several hours there.Dont see the point of going if all u do is run around the whole joint in double quick time, then leave. Especially if u have driven from far away to go there.

Check this ebay seller for tipper kits

Never built one personally, but worked on a couple.

Some food for thought;

The position of the pivot point has two major consequences. If it is placed right at the rear of the trailer, then the angle you can lift to tip is the greatest possible, but it is the heaviest, and requires the most effort by the hydraulics and puts the most stress on the trailer.
If you place the pivot point close to the rear springs, then the effort required by the hydraulics is less, as is the stress on the chassis, but depending on the rear overhang, you'll be limited by how high it will tilt.

What I mean by the stress on the trailer too, is unless you can get your hands on a multi stage hydraulic cylinder, then you're going to have to lay the cylinder along the chassis under the floor. At this lowest angle, the cylinder will want to tear the trailer apart, and the heavier the load in the trailer, the worse it will be. So the mounting points for the cylinder need to be extremely strong.

And then... we get into the geometry of the placement of the cylinder itself.

My experience. When I built this
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f184/p...-build-107692/

I decided to pivot the drawbar where it attaches and hold the front in with a couple of large pins. I then mounted a scissor jack from a car at the front of the box to make it tip. At full extension of the Jack the rear of the trailer touches the ground, probably not quite enough of an angle to empty a load of dirt; although it may. I mainly did this so I could load a go cart without using ramps.

The problems with it are (and the reason why I don't have it working):
1). the scissor jack only has thrust washer/bearing on the up direction. It is extremely painful to try and get it back down. Haven't yet got around to dismantling the jack and trying to add thrust washers/bearings for both directions.
and
2). I underestimated the thickness of galvanising and the pieces of flat iron i used as spacers when building it were not thick enough. The end result being that it is a very tight fit between the brackets that lock the front of the drawbar with the pin. large hammer is required to knock the pins in.

I was going to modify it to use a portapac hydraulic but the ones i have have the same problem in that they will only push up (out) and not back in, I dont know if you can get double acting units. I was trying to avoid all the hassles with hydraulic power packs and electrics and keeping it self contained and simple.

Hope it works out whatever you decide.

frank

I know one thing for sure..
The price trailer manufacturers try and charge for tipper trailers is nothing short of extortion..
After looking for one for over twelve months I came to the conclusion that there is obviously not enough manufactures building them in order for them to be selling on the market for anything near what they should be selling for..
I don't buy the argument that they have double the work to build than your standard box trailer.
Sure there is an additional sub frame under there to attach the ram to in order for the box to tip but I cant see how this doubles the cost of the trailer..
The only advice I can give is to steer clear of the made in china tipping kits and buy something locally built or made in the USA..
Furthermore now that the governments 50% Tax rebate on plant and equipment is over and demand has dropped of substantially. These greedy trailer manufacturers have reduced pricing significantly..
In my 12 months of searching for a tipper that was well made and fairly priced the manufacturer that came up trumps was Elf Trailers In Sydney I believe they may be selling some of there trailers on Ebay as well..
I have no affiliation with this manufacturer..

Goodluck..

Hi mate, i used to sell and set up this stuff. Everything from box trailers to b doubles, side tippers, you name it. I can tell you that 48 degrees is an ideal angle - i'm talking bottom of body (ignore rear overhang for now)raised to level chassis rail. Multi stage is the only way to go. 48 degrees gives you plenty of lift, while still allowing the body to come back down due to gravity - once you get to the 52 degree mark, the body stays up, unless a double acting cyl and powerpack is used (pressure both ways). Stick to the single for what you want - you'll save a motza. If you can tell me exactly how long the body is, how much rear overhang of the body you have, and how much you plan on lifting, i can tell you exactly where to mount the cyl, (simple crossmembers will be fine on a box trailer, but always reinforce), how high that cylinder needs to lift etc...I have all the formulasand calculations needed, just need the dimensions of the body, weight you want to lift, and how much room you can afford under the trailer to mount the cylinder. (The room you have under the trailer to mount it will determine how many stages the cylinder needs to be). All up, you'll be looking at about $1200 - this will include quality powerpack assembly (Operates of electricity - 12 or 24 volt - supplies hydraulic pressure to the cylinder), multistage hydraulic cylinder, remote pendant control (for operation of the cylinder) and hose and fittings required. The cylinder will also come with little mount feet to install on a solid plate or crossmember.
Cheers, Tim.

Thanks everybody for your detailed replies. It seems this is a project that requires some more thought. They look so simple when you look at them. And here I was thinking a hand winch might be good enough to lift the tray! I'm going to put it on the backburner for time being and use the existing trailer frame for a water trailer. It should fit a 1000 litre tank (with baffle ) with room to spare for a pump.
Thanks Again.

Hi Mate,
I built a 6x4 tilt trailer probably 25--30 years ago and still use it today.
It is manual tipper , you just make sure there is some wait on the rear when you ready to tip . Keep attached to the vehicle and remove the tail gate and undo the 2 x 1/2 nuts on the draw bar and lift front of Box trailer to tip out goods, some times with gravel or dirt , just drive slowly forward to empty the goods.

When making pivot section have it at about the centre above the axle each side attached to the draw bar ends , so that it pivots around the wheels (axle) area.

Fairly simple design.

Hi Goldanfish,
Thanks for your reply. Any chance of a few detailed photos as they would be most helpful to me and i'm sure others on the forum.
Cheers.

Yer
sure can take some photo's , BUT trailer is at my son's place and it will be a few days before I can get there and take a few shots. But I'll put it on my to do list.

Thanks for the interest.