Thread: Trailer add ons share them here

Out for a walk and spotted this add on.

Originally Posted by Grandad-5

Wouldn't have a clue Dean.
My only concern in the design stage was the geometry.

What I want to know is whether the axle is in the centre of load bearing area. The drawing indicates it is not but I gues part of it is draw bar. If this is the case what is the purpose of the extra length at front?

Dean

Sorry, I misunderstood.
The axle from memory was a liittle more to the rear. Maybe 6"? 150mm.
This wasn't to do with the tipping function so much as to try to get 10% of the total tare weight on the ball.

The drawbar was in fact a little bit longer than normal, but only because I was tired of trailers that were a pig to reverse.
The drawing above is not to any scale.
It was done very quickly in sketchup by downloading an existing model, duplicating parts and erasing others just to illustrate the main concept.

The geometry that turned out to be critical, wasn't any on these measurements. It was the positioning of the pivot point in relation to the axle. So long as it is in front of the axle it will tip, but the closer to the axle it is, the more force is required to do so.

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Sounds like a great story Grandad. Sure post some pics.

Ok then, here you go.

The first is one of it in its current, rather tired state.
Attachment 186151

The only other one I could find is when we converted it to a tradies trailer.
Attachment 186150

A close look at the drawbar etc will show this is in fact the same trailer.
Because its only a frame at this stage, its rather hard to picture the end result.
The openings on either side were a workbench and a drop-saw station. The workbench area was on the drivers side which had the top half of an old Black & Decker workmate incorporated into it. This was where I could work a beam or post with a router, jigsaw or plane.
The pass side was another bench with a drop saw near the front.
I had portable roller stands to stick out front and back for extra long beams.

Taking photos today sparked off quite a conversation. It seems the two boys are debating the future of this trailer. One wants to give it yet another re-incarnation. This time back to the original box trailer with a lightweight removable cage.
The other wants to tart it up, sell it and start again.
I reckon he's the one with the right idea.

Just as a side note. Look very carefully at where the "A" frame meets the chassis.
What's the first rule when welding here?
Answer: Never weld all the way around this joint. Only weld the sides.
As you can see, I didn't know that at the time.
Just goes to show, you can be lucky. It never broke, and shows no sign of fracture.

Cheers
Jim

Ok . Gotcha now. My plan was to scale and created in TurboCad so I could calculate tilt angle and how high the front wheels had to go etc so scale was essential. This drawing is my model. Each to their own methods. I find Turbocad is quick, does not take up much space (like a model) and is very quick to get out and put away. I can enter exact dimensions and calculate exect angles. I can also use the drawing to print a plan for construction. One of the best things about it though is I always know where the drawings are.

This plan was produced from a CAD drawing of existing trailer. The existing trailer is going to be made wider and longer by cutting and welding in more RHS. The main frame including draw bar is going to be replaced totally as is the floor and the single axle replaced with a new dual axle setup, hopefully 4 wheel disks and 4WD wheels and tyres.

I cut the drawing and split it on screen to represent what was going to happen, filled in the gaps and saved each file as a seperate drawing. This gives me step by step measurements showing me how to proceed. It has now been about 18 months or more since I started the planning but I can refresh my memory anytime I want. This system works for me.

I have not looked at sketchup as one CAD program is enough for me at a time and TurboCad does everything I need. It is a full featured 3D CAD program but I have found that 2D is all I can cope with as I do not use it enough to become proficient at 3D. The learning curve is far steeper.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Ok . Gotcha now. My plan was to scale and created in TurboCad so I could calculate tilt angle and how high the front wheels had to go etc so scale was essential. This drawing is my model. Each to their own methods.

Couldn't agree with you more.
When I first designed this, the Commodore 64 wasn't even being considered possible by its inventor.
A CAD was a scoundrel or rotter.

Originally Posted by Grandad-5

Couldn't agree with you more.
When I first designed this, the Commodore 64 wasn't even being considered possible by its inventor.
A CAD was a scoundrel or rotter.[IMG]file:///C:/Users/DEAN%7E1.GAY/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]

Interesting how things change. I did a computer course at TAFE many years ago when my job was almost non existent. I used to work for Fletcher Jones at a manufacturing site. I got out before the final collapse and went to TAFE.

At the time I did not like computers and what their existence meant for the human race. That has not changed but I guess I have accepted that they are not going away. I like them a lot more now.

Regarding welding across the draw bar, I think that from my experience this issue may be exaggerated. Sorry Yonnee but I have hammered the he## out of this trailer, bent the original axle, bent the draw bar, loaded it to higher than the cage with redgum firewood etc etc. The original draw bar is I think 1/4 inch x 2 inch angle. It has not cracked. Maybe the thickness protects it. Due to the bending I welded another piece of similar angle on underneath to form a box. Cut it and pulled it straight etc.

I do understand the risks when using lighter materials and if I weld my draw bar on when I rebuild I will certainly not weld across the top of it. A weld in that position will weaken the metal at the most vulnerable point.

Yonnee, you must see a lot of bad stuff. People usually only get something fixed if it is broken. Your advice is good when building a new trailer but if someone has an old heavy built trailer from long ago what are the chances of a crack occurring.

All I am saying is that if you have a trailer that is welded across the top of the draw bar it is not necessarily going to fail. Look at it in context. Heavy thick steel is less affected by welding and I personally have heard of a number of failures over the years but not this one. Where I live vehicles get hammered. Driving up and down gutters is nothing to what I put trailers thru out in the bush.

There is a trailer lying in a paddock about 2km from here. It was build to be used with the cars rego. This is a Victorian thing, for those who don't understand. The trailer has to be small and light but can just have the cars number plate number on its plate. Saves extra rego cost. It literally broke up from metal fatigue around the suspension mounts. Just a pile of scrap now. I still intend checking the axle to see if it is usable for something. I shifted a piece of frame off the road when I first saw the trailer. I think it was the slipper bracket and attached section of frame.

Dean

Originally Posted by rusel

Out for a walk and spotted this add on.

Looks like the front bar to support long stuff but what was the back attachment like I wonder? I have used my cage to do this job but it is not quite high enough and It causes a lot of air resistance. I have to travel nearly 100km to get to a steel merchant so cost is an issue.

I had an attachment on the bull bar of my last car and a roof bar at the back for long stuff. The bull bar attach just clamped onto the upright of the bullbar. All my vehicles have bullbars. I have not hit a bull yet though. The last one I saw on the road was not interested in holding up traffic. He was just chewing way. Roobar would be a better name I think but bullbar sounds stronger and the one thing about my bullbars is they are strong. Design is everything and most of them are useless.

My current car does not have a gutter like the last one. Complicates things. Maybe a frame on the trailer is one way to deal with long stuff but I still have to travel. Last lot of steel I got (Friday) I had delivered to work. Much closer but it cost $24.00. On gas I could do it myself for that cost and do some other shopping as well. Only saved 60km one way, of travel. Decisions decisions.

Dean

Originally Posted by rusel

Out for a walk and spotted this add on.

Looks like the front bar to support long stuff but what was the back attachment like I wonder? I have used my cage to do this job but it is not quite high enough and It causes a lot of air resistance. I have to travel nearly 100km to get to a steel merchant so cost is an issue.

I had an attachment on the bull bar of my last car and a roof bar at the back for long stuff. The bull bar attach just clamped onto the upright of the bullbar. All my vehicles have bullbars. I have not hit a bull yet though. The last one I saw on the road was not interested in holding up traffic. He was just chewing way. Roobar would be a better name I think but bullbar sounds stronger and the one thing about my bullbars is they are strong. Design is everything and most of them are useless.

My current car does not have a gutter like the last one. Complicates things. Maybe a frame on the trailer is one way to deal with long stuff but I still have to travel. Last lot of steel I got (Friday) I had delivered to work. Much closer but it cost $24.00. On gas I could do it myself for that cost and do some other shopping as well. Only saved 60km one way, of travel. Decisions decisions.

A look at that picture will show a weld across the top of the draw bar.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

A look at that picture will show a weld across the top of the draw bar.

My goodness, it does too. You do have an eagle eye.

Originally Posted by rusel

I will add to this thread by putting up a problem and get your ideas for a fix
Bottom of trailer is rusting out.
Is there any way I can slow this down? I do carry most thing from gravel to furniture. It also live outside and is used as a bin which slowly fills up till it goes to the tip.
Any suggestion most welcome.

Russell

Hi Russell,
Many years ago now myself and my students built an Ultra Light trailer (it is a pleasure to use) It was designed to do just what you do and the reality has been much better than I expected. But I do remove the plywood ends that are stored under cover and keep it empty most of the time. The trailer sits outside (near the beach) and very slowly rusts away. While the garden waste piles up in the wooden compost bins which are not wearing so well as the trailer, the trailer is doing fine.
I am building a educational web site for MDT student and teachers as well as retired teachers who still like to inspire young lads. I will place the pictures and Link to them...watch this space
cheers
johnD

johnD
I would like to see the web site and maybe some photos of your light weight trailers with some specs on them as well.

Another question; Insurance. Is your trailer covered by the cars third party insurance. Eg you back your car with trailer into the Rolls Royce.
Are you covered, should I be doing something about this?

Russell

If it were mine I'd clean it up and paint it with POR15.

Brilliant but not cheap.

Originally Posted by zuffen

POR15 is a 2 part paint that is near indestructible.

Check it out here http://por15.com.au/

I've used it a number of times and it works a treat.

I used their fuel tank sealer 2 weeks ago and I still can't get the residue off the top of my fingernails and I've been scrubbing them every day as I work with grease and oils in my daily car building hobby.

Echo that about POR15 being near indestructable!. It's only a single pack coating (not a paint as the POR15 people point out, somewhere) Repainted the mower deck of a ride-on a few years back. Had the the 2-year old deck sand blasted 'cos it was aleardy rusting, applied two coats of black POR15, a coat of their top coat primer and two coats of black top coat. The mower was traded in some seven years later (we have a large block!) and the POR15 was the only thing not worn out!

I'm in the process of building my 8 x 5 tandem trailer. Guess what it will be painted with?