Thread: Trailer build II... the long haul.

Just noticed you're in Tooradin, Yonnee, just down the road from here, & country.

Have to come along to the next BBQ out this way.


Cheers.................Sean

Originally Posted by scooter

Just noticed you're in Tooradin, Yonnee, just down the road from here, & country.

Have to come along to the next BBQ out this way.


Cheers.................Sean

If I'm free, with bells on!!

And I think I know 's place, even though we've not met yet, If it's the place I think it is, I could nearly rock his roof from my place

OK. Now she's the right way round, there's a few more welds to finish off...

... the front spring hangers are done.


And again, I practice what I preach... ...no welds across the drawbar!


Close up... ...the extra support brace.


For a trailer this size, some might think that this is overkill, and it probably is, but it will be registered to an ATM of 1450kg so will be able to carry a fair load. So I do this to most of the trailers I build or modify for my own peace of mind.

Great work Yonnee....

Thanks Daz.

I've been a little slack in the trailer dept. over the last couple of weeks, but I have been busy...
A birthday, Easter, my son's birthday, poured a slab for 3 water tanks and built a steel rack to get all my RHS off the floor...

This is the new rack...
...all that steel was taking up 1/4 of the shed floor. Now I have a fabrication area for trailers, etc. (You can just see the trailer in its new spot)

Hi Yonnee
I'm impressed with your trailer construction. Just some questions from one who doesn't know.
Why aren't the draw bars bent directly from the side rails but are welded onto the square frame. I would have expected full length draw bars to be stronger than relying on welded on bits. Are the welds and plates on the drawbar adequate for this application or do you make more welds to the frame.?
Also why can't one weld across the draw bars. Is it because it would weaken the steel?.
I notice the towball plate seems to be only "tacked" on. Do you do full welds on all these places later.
I have bought a homemade large (7X4) offroad trailer without brakes and I was toying with putting brakes on it. I note that you don't like override brakes but prefer electric. Is there any reason for this preference?

Thanks much for the detailed pics of the construction. Looking forward to more.

Hi Pedro

From memory a half inch of weld done correctly will hold a tonne (Im sure someone knows the full amount) whereas the bend in the side rail would become a fatigue point and IMO less strong.

I could be wrong though

Originally Posted by pedro the swift

Hi Yonnee
I'm impressed with your trailer construction. Just some questions from one who doesn't know.

Hey Pedro.
Welcome to my little trailer bit and thanks for your comments.
I'll try to answer your questions to your satisfaction.

Originally Posted by pedro

Why aren't the draw bars bent directly from the side rails but are welded onto the square frame. I would have expected full length draw bars to be stronger than relying on welded on bits.

You are correct that a full length, one piece drawbar would be a bit stronger, and this is the way that most boat trailers are now made, but with all trailers that have sides, the strength is in these sides and therefore the added extra weight and expense of using the heavier material right to the back is overkill, even by my standards.
Plus I have no way of bending that size material effectively!
And if the drawbar ever needed to be replaced, it wouldn't be cost effective to do so.

Originally Posted by pedro

Are the welds and plates on the drawbar adequate for this application or do you make more welds to the frame.?

Definately. There are two welds underneath the front cross rail along the drawbar that I don't have a close-up of. These are in addition to the gussets you can see on the side of the drawbar. And the end of the drawbar is tied to the spring hanger as well.

Originally Posted by pedro

Also why can't one weld across the draw bars. Is it because it would weaken the steel?.

Not that it 'weakens' the steel, but welding "across the grain" of the drawbar at this point doesn't allow it to flex when there are heavy loads in the trailer. Long term you'd eventually see cracking of the steel around this point.
(Note: a good weld is stronger than the steel around it)

Originally Posted by pedro

I notice the towball plate seems to be only "tacked" on. Do you do full welds on all these places later.

They're more than just tacked. Those are stitch welds approximately 2in long. Welding the entire length of the plate is unnessesary. There is another stitch weld on the inside at the rear of that plate.

The other reason for not filling every join full of weld is the time involved in replacing / repairing the trailer should it ever be involved in an accident. If you've ever had to removed an item that's been welded in every nook and cranny, you'd know what I mean.

Originally Posted by pedro

I have bought a homemade large (7X4) offroad trailer without brakes and I was toying with putting brakes on it. I note that you don't like override brakes but prefer electric. Is there any reason for this preference?

As I've said before, override brakes have their place, and while they are perfectly legal on trailers up to 2000kg, I would not have them on a trailer I own. I have been in a situation where a 2000kg hire trailer was pushing me down a hill and through a red light intersection, using me to apply its own ineffective brakes. Maybe the brakes weren't adjusted properly, but most of the time they are only fitted to one axle and are good for only 1300kg. (Electric starts at 1600kg per axle of brake capacity.)
Four other reasons for electric over over-ride...
- Not having to get out of the car to flip the latch to reverse the trailer.
- Dont start me on the "CLUNK" when you come to a complete stop...
- Over-ride can't work going backwards.
- You can apply trailer brakes independently of your tow vehicles brakes.
(I'll add more as I think of them)

Originally Posted by pedro

Thanks much for the detailed pics of the construction. Looking forward to more.

Thank you for looking and your kind comments and I hope I've answered your questions to your satisfaction. If you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

Yonnee.

Hi Yonee, just finished going over your build, and like it very much, a shame that some pro trailer builders in the West don't take pride in their work like you do, I know it's a competitive market, but safety adn quality first. There are some great builders here, but couldn't afford them, my future build will be for a Hilux tray 7' x 5'6 near new condition, would you recommend brakes? and if so how hard is it to affix them, single axle solid square with 6 stud hub, never built a trailer, wanted to and a friend gave me the Toyota hilux tray and his brother gave me the axle, also said rims and tyres will be coming, very generous of them, have a friend in church that is a really good welder (MIG) I am ok with a welder, done courses and a few small jobs on constructing cages for butchers shop, under supervision from a qualified fitter and welder. Nothing has broken yet, would like to do this on my own, sense of achievement kinda thing, if you understand. What springs would you recommend? trailer slips? or hilux leaf springs with front and rear hangers?. Won't bombard you anymore, think thats enough as it is your thread. Cheers Waz from Mandurah West Oz

I've got electric brakes on my car trailer wouldn't have anything else.

2 points slightly different from Yonnee's

you can adjust the pressure on the brakes so if its empty you can ease them off and if you have a heavy load you can increase the effect of the trailer brakes.

If you are stopped facing uphill the brakes work ( same as reversing )

When I made my trailer I made the draw bar removeable. You have no idea how handy that is.

I can leave the trailer anywhere and with it removed you can't tow it away.

You can store the trailer in a much smaller space.

It also lets me tilt the trailer as its bolted at the back of the draw bar by 2 bolts as well as at the front of the trailer box. Take out the front 2 bolts and it can be tipped.

You got some pics of your trailer durwood, particularly the draw bar, it sounds like a good set up.

Originally Posted by WazOz

Hi Yonee, just finished going over your build, and like it very much, a shame that some pro trailer builders in the West don't take pride in their work like you do, I know it's a competitive market, but safety adn quality first.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by waz

There are some great builders here, but couldn't afford them, my future build will be for a Hilux tray 7' x 5'6 near new condition, would you recommend brakes?

Yes!
In a tray that size you can put a fair load and legally you're only allowed up to 750kg, including the weight of the trailer, without brakes.

...and if so how hard is it to affix them, single axle solid square with 6 stud hub,...

If the axle is a trailer axle with a standard bearing configuration, then all that's required is to jig up and weld a mounting flange on each side for the brake backing plates, bolting up the brake assemblies, fitting new drums and bearings, and wire or plumb up the brakes.

Originally Posted by waz

never built a trailer, wanted to...
...would like to do this on my own, sense of achievement kinda thing, if you understand.

Perfectly!
Get as much advice as you think you need, the rest is a confidence thing. If you're confident in your ability to do a good job, then hop to it. If not, then either learn, and gain the confidence to do the job properly, or don't do it at all.

Originally Posted by waz

What springs would you recommend? trailer slips? or hilux leaf springs with front and rear hangers?.

Trailer springs are short, therefore inherently harsh, but are cheap and will do the job fine. Either 'slipper' or 'eye and eye' are fine, 'eye to eye' being a little dearer, but a little quieter, but have more moving parts to maintain.
If you go the way of car/4WD springs, you'll have a great ride quality, require more room for fitment as they're longer than trailer springs, and also require shock absorbers to be set up to stop the trailer 'wallowing' all over the place. Everyone has an opinion on what's best and why their opinion is better, so I'll just give you this scenario...
'You go bush with your trailer and break a standard spring. You limp to the nearest roadhouse/workshop. They carry a small range of stuff, fan belts, universal fit radiator hoses, etc. and some trailer bearings. You might get lucky and they carry a couple of slipper springs just for this sort of thing. Or someone knows someone just down the road with an old 6x4 you can pinch a spring from. You get home, allbeit a little lighter in the pocket.

What's that?? You've got springs from the rear of a 1986 Hilux...
The nearest Toyota dealer is 1200 kms away, who has to order it in...
The nearest wreckers is alomst as far, And the nearest springworks isn't open till after the long-weekend. You get home a week later than planned, and it's cost you almost the cost of a new trailer to get a new spring made and freighted to where ever you were.

Originally Posted by waz

Won't bombard you anymore, think thats enough as it is your thread. Cheers Waz from Mandurah West Oz

Bombard away. Glad to be some help.

Yonnee.

Originally Posted by durwood

I've got electric brakes on my car trailer wouldn't have anything else.

2 points slightly different from Yonnee's

you can adjust the pressure on the brakes so if its empty you can ease them off and if you have a heavy load you can increase the effect of the trailer brakes.

It's one of the best features of Electric brakes, and I forgot to mention it!
The adjustability and the control you have over the brakes is from your driver's seat.

Originally Posted by durwood

If you are stopped facing uphill the brakes work ( same as reversing )

Not quite, that depends on which controller you have fitted to your tow vehicle. Most controllers don't work automatically in reverse, but you still have your manual over-ride control.

Originally Posted by durwood

When I made my trailer I made the draw bar removeable. You have no idea how handy that is.

I can leave the trailer anywhere and with it removed you can't tow it away.

You can store the trailer in a much smaller space.

It also lets me tilt the trailer as its bolted at the back of the draw bar by 2 bolts as well as at the front of the trailer box. Take out the front 2 bolts and it can be tipped.

I too would like to see some pics.

Originally Posted by durwood

I've got electric brakes on my car trailer wouldn't have anything else.

2 points slightly different from Yonnee's

you can adjust the pressure on the brakes so if its empty you can ease them off and if you have a heavy load you can increase the effect of the trailer brakes.

If you are stopped facing uphill the brakes work ( same as reversing )

When I made my trailer I made the draw bar removeable. You have no idea how handy that is.

I can leave the trailer anywhere and with it removed you can't tow it away.

You can store the trailer in a much smaller space.

It also lets me tilt the trailer as its bolted at the back of the draw bar by 2 bolts as well as at the front of the trailer box. Take out the front 2 bolts and it can be tipped.

Great Durwood, convinced me along with Yonee on Electric brakes, have seen removable hitches not drawbars, pics would be nice and thanks