Thread: Trailer rebuild

The axle thing has been mentioned many times by Yonnee and goes like this.

Axle goes 25mm back from center of box for each 300mm of box length. So a 7 foot box (2.1m roughly) would have center of axle 175 mm (7x25) behind center of box.

But it's not a hard and fast rule so you can put it closer to the center of the box if you want.

A read through some of the trailer threads will give info on draw bar length (5ft from front of box, roughly).

Dan's got it bang on with the axle location, although I don't agree with going closer to the centre. Too close to the centre will cause it to want to swap ends at speed.

It's a bit of a Catch22 with this project. If it was just to lengthen it to 7X4, then I suggest removing the drawbar, adding a foot to the front chassis, floor & sides, then re-fitting the drawbar, leaving the axle location and guards where there they are. However, adding to both the length and width of the trailer, as well as increasing its carrying capacity, you'd be better off selling the 6X4 as it is, and building a bigger trailer from scratch. Because to increase both dimensions, the only thing you wont need to replace will be the coupling.

As for brakes and carrying capacity, there's a big jump in prices of parts at certain weights. Up to 1400Kg, you have options of Mechanical, Hydraulic or Electric brakes on "Slimline" (Ford) bearings. Between 1400Kg and 1600Kg, you require "Parallel" bearings and axles, which limits you to 10" drums. This in turn limits you to either Electric or 10" Dexter Hydraulic brakes which are an expensive jump over the 9" Indian hydraulic brake which the most commonly used. Over 1600Kg then requires a 2000Kg axle and requires 11" hydraulic or 12" Electric brakes, and the use of 16" Off road wheels and tyres.

Thanks Yonnee.

I've decided it will be better to buy a new gal. trailer.

I will simply repair mine and sell it.