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15th August 2012, 01:59 PM #1New Member
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Jayco Camper Trailer ceiling replacement
Hello all,
first post here so trust my post/queries are to the correct protocol.
My 2004 Jayco Finch has developed a roof leak near the rear internal light and either another leak or condensation problem near the front light resulting in damage to the veneered roof sheeting. The 2004 model had the two part aluminium sheet roof with joint down the centre. We had found small mould spot near from light in April this year when camper sued for a 2 week trip which we cleaned up and thought to be condensation ( also some black mould on lower part of the metal door frame). Everything else was still good at that time. This is my third camper over about 20 years and never had leaks or other serious problems in that time.
Water at front light may be from a leak at the rear as it has been parked up for a year with the front low and facing north so solar panels on roof are directed better towards the sun. Just moved into new house in June and camper now parked with rear to north and had the front slightly higher so water may have stayed near leak entry point.
Deliberately left the camper up and level in heavy rain last night and some water on ceiling inside behind rear internal light but dry at the front light area – hence thoughts that front deterioration may be from condensation or water running down hill rather than roof leak at the front.
I have been taking out a few of the internal roof mounted fitting each evening. With lights and curtains/valence removed, I can see some polystyrene foam in corners of the roof and at holes for cables to lights. Last night that work included the inner part of the skylight/vent hatch assembly. It has timber framing around the opening and low and behold, the 12 Vdc wiring to the rear light is looped in and out through that timber framing. Water wise at the hatch opening, the front and side timbers are dry but there was some water/dampness at the rear timber. No sign of rot in the timber so seems I have got in early enough. Getting more access and drying out the timber (maybe once dry also a coat of varnish to help seal timbers for future (did that on all seat and cupboard internal plywood and timber from day 1).
In the past on various campers I have pulled back the aluminium sheeting on front face of roof and wall on first camper years ago to do some mods for pole carrier, did some minor wall mods for vents in second camper and wall rear mods to add AM/FM/CD stereo in current camper. I know earlier campers had timber roof frame and no insulation in roof so sheeting likely just glued to timber frame. By 2004 there was advertised to be “roof insulation” which may be polystyrene foam sheeting glued to metal roof with ceiling sheeting glued to foam (but then again 1991 models were claimed to have roof insulation but mine had no foam). Accordingly, as money is currently tight with recent purchase of new house, prefer to look at repairing myself . I am relatively handy at camper mods – have added larger water tank, 3-way tap and elect water pump, extra wiring and 12 Volt power outlets, added stereo system into rear wall, mods to internal cupboards, totally rebuilt front seat to gain more storage space, etc, for the current camper.
Obviously first task is the find the source/location of the leak and reseal.
In searching this and other forums seems Bunnings stock some Sikaflex adhesive sealant products (seems Sikaflex 222 has been recommended elsewhere) and also seems one must avoid silicone type sealants. Also found the name of the adhesive sealant used by Jayco themselves. So will purchase some suitable adhesive sealant rear to fix outer roof leak and then on the weekend look to removing the outer part of the roof hatch and roof centreline seal, clean up the parts and reseal.
Then it will be down to how best to repair the now damaged (stained, bubbled paper coating near lights, and some mould spots on inside) ceiling sheeting. With most other items removed now, I can see staples at the sides and along (under the sheeting joint trims) the but the big question remains is there polystyrene foam in roof cavity (2004 model) and is the plywood glued to the foam.
If glued, might warrant using some oil of cloves to “kill” any mound spores (apparently exit mould etc do not kill the spores) and partially sanding back (belt sander) the existing ceiling then glue and staple new sheets over existing.
Still early days into investigations and repair however ,any advise/information/photos of Jayco Camper from members who know how the roof is assembled and how the internal ceiling sheeting is secured for mid 2000’s models greatly appreciated.
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15th August 2012 01:59 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th August 2012, 03:06 PM #2Novice
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- Sep 2008
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Hi Westaust55,
I dont know if you are already a member or have even seen the site, but there is a forum called myswag.org. There is a lot of camping information on there, and a lot of Jayco users. Give it a try and see what that brings up
regards
Harmful81
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15th August 2012, 03:28 PM #3Obviously first task is the find the source/location of the leak and reseal.
I would wait with that until you remove the internal ceiling as water can travel a long way and it will be easier to follow the trail from inside.
With most other items removed now, I can see staples at the sides and along (under the sheeting joint trims) the but the big question remains is there polystyrene foam in roof cavity (2004 model) and is the plywood glued to the foam.
Yes, ceiling is glued to polysturene foam, with approx 19mm square timber battens runnin g along the ceiling sides and a few for dividers. There are also sheetmetal plates where there are light fixtures and where the fittings are to hold the door up in transit.
If glued, might warrant using some oil of cloves to “kill” any mound spores (apparently exit mould etc do not kill the spores) and partially sanding back (belt sander) the existing ceiling then glue and staple new sheets over existing.
We also used this opportunity to run some extra wiring for lighting and sound in new channels cut in the foam.
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15th August 2012, 08:53 PM #4
If you are getting a leak through the roof skin, I would be removing all of the seam caulking on the roof and completely recaulking it. Had to do this every 4 or five years with an onsite van, even with no towing etc to weaken the caulking. This is the best way to keep moisture out of the ceiling cavity.
Once you are sure that you have fixed the leak, start work on replacing the ceiling.
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15th August 2012, 10:12 PM #5New Member
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Jayco camper roof leak and ceiling replacement
Pulled out some staples tonight and carfully levered the plywood down along one edge to look inside to roof. I can now confirm there is polystyrene sheeting with the ceiling plywood glued to it.
We finished removing both new and old ceiling and we were glad we did as it didn't smell too fresh inside that lot.
levering slowing has worked for a smaller area so far with a couple of mm layer of the foam remaining stuck to the back of the plywood.
We also used this opportunity to run some extra wiring for lighting and sound in new channels cut in the foam.
Thanks for the feedback
westy
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15th August 2012, 10:19 PM #6New Member
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@Harmful81.
thanks for that suggestion. will investigate the myswag forum as well.
@malb,
yes, I am considering to reseal all avenues for leak on the top side (ie around hatch and full length of centre line between the two aluminium roof sheets). No signs of water near the sides - seems to be on centre line near the two lights.
Have started to remove the ceiling sheeting with a view to ascertaining more precicely where the leak was (which is something I can make a start on by lights in the evening - external roof is a daytime job). The fact that there is foam insulation will slow progress and best I can do is to look at the visible timber with plywood removed to get an idea on extent of water in roof space.
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15th August 2012, 10:21 PM #7@Big Shed, any tips on the best way to remove the plywood and keep the foam intact?
levering slowing has worked for a smaller area so far with a couple of mm layer of the foam remaining stuck to the back of the plywood.
That seems like a good idea. I am having ideas on replacing the 16-Watt 2-D fluro type fitting I used to replace the Halogen lights with LED types now. Maybe use say 4 LED lights in place of the original 2 light fittings.
As we bush camp a fair bit, power consumption is important when running off the 12 V battery.
My son has a 2000 Swan and we have a 2003 Penguin.
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15th August 2012, 11:16 PM #8New Member
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16th August 2012, 09:11 AM #9Novice
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16th August 2012, 09:28 AM #10Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Classic Caravans - Newest Threads
This is a site for caravan repairs and restorations, I am a member there and good advice on your problem
les
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16th August 2012, 10:40 AM #11New Member
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@Big Shed,
another quick question: What adhesive did you use to glue the new plywood into place?
@SirCol ,
Thanks for the tip.
Will consider the BBQ slice as an option if other wider scrapers are not reaily available with a longer handle.
@Less88,
Thanks. I will have a look at the Classic Caravans forum as well
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16th August 2012, 02:02 PM #12
SikaBond FoamFix
Available from Bunnings, about $24 per can
...and before you ask
http://www.gunnersens.com.au/product...y-plywood.html
Available on special order, yes you guessed it, Bunnings.
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16th August 2012, 03:47 PM #13New Member
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Jayco camper ceiling repair
Thanks Big Shed.
Best to ascertain what others have used rather than take a punt based on what I might see on the shelf at Bunnings et al.
Cannot see the SikaBond Foam Fix at Bunnings website but CSS website does give to outlets near me (Wangara and Osborne Park - only couple of km from me).
Thanks for the link to the coated plywood as well. I knew Bunnings and Camec here in WA sell this item.
Regards
westy
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16th August 2012, 04:48 PM #14
You're lucky to find half of what Bunnings sell on their (woeful) website, but our local Bunnings stocks it (Bendigo-Vic) and at least 2 Bunnies in Adelaide (where son lives) stock it.
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27th August 2012, 04:27 PM #15New Member
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- Aug 2012
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- Perth
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Jayco Camper Trailer ceiling replacement
A brief update for those who may be interested.
I have now:
1. stripped out the stained and mouldy ceiling plywood
2. removed the roof hatch amongst other things found the metal upper lip that the seal mounts on has been bent inwards on the hinge side (likely since original install)
3. removed all the old sealant on the roof from the centreline and side
4. applied new Sikaflex 11FC adhesive seal to the roof joints and roof hatch
5. flooded the roof with water and checked for leaks – all looking good
Also have taken the opportunity to run some extra wires to enable fitting of some extra lights and have a fan fitted at the roof hatch.
Next step will be to install the new plywood (already obtained) for the internal ceiling which I hope to do this coming Saturday using the previously suggested Sikabond foamfix. The original plywood has a paper coating whereas the plywood I have selected this time has a poyester film coating.
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