Thread: Wiring junctions?

RS components and CNW stock junction boxes including Ex rated for explosive atmospheres; I'll try to remember to look tomorrow to see what brand our boxes are; they are black bakelite type material, about four inches dia and have up to four cable entry points; sounds like what your Army trailer uses.

Personally I solder and heat shrink all my joints but that's because I'm mildly OCD, slightly ADD and fully anally retentive

Thanks, Chief, you're a legend! Except for the part where I just made an order from rs this morning and it's already on the way. Oh well.

But for the record, they have some the same as the ones from my army trailer. Here's the manufacturer's website:

Hager - Traditional Junction Box

I'll make another order. I recon they're worth it. I do solder and heat shrink for single connections but these work so well for multiples.

Ah; that's what you were after; Pommy domestic components! I thought you were looking for IP-rated external stuff.

It's funny; when you mentioned the slotted brass barrel nuts I was actually thinking of those exact JB's; I even have one in my shed at home. I like the way that the lid will give you 1, 2, 3 or four cable openings depending on how you rotate it, and the slot terminals allow you to splice into a ring circuit without having to cut a cable. I think it's ridiculous that in Australia ring circuits are banned; there was a thread few weeks ago about annoying electrical issues and I had a good spleen vent about the difference between Pommy electrics and the absolute CRAP we have in Oz

Unfortunately though my JB only has three terminals so I don't think it'll suit your purposes.

Originally Posted by Legion

What's the best practice...??

Strip, splice, solder, heat shrink, tape.

What's the usual practice...??
Cut, Strip, twist, tape.
Or scotch locks... Whatever is quickest to get the trailer out the door.

Not a huge fan of junction boxes. Unless you glue them up with silastic, or as Tiff said, you invest in IP rated boxes, they're never completely weather proof. And having all wiring connected at a junction box means running longer wiring runs than really necessary, which can lead to voltage drops. (Although, with LED's these days, it's less of an issue...)

But I like to think of the trailer wiring loom like a car wiring loom. Not every wire throughout the car connects back to a single point. Front clearance lamps for instance, I splice a double-insulated twin-core into the main 5/7 core loom near the end of the drawbar. I do this 150-200mm from where the loom exits the drawbar so that the join is inside the tube out of the weather. The twin-core then runs back over the top of the drawbar and along the side chassis rail up to a hole in the back of the front cross rail. Inside this front cross rail is another join (strip, splice, solder, heat shrink & tape) to split this loom into left and right front lamps, and again, the join is inside the tube when the loom is pulled taut. The ends of the twin-core then exit the front cross rail via another hole below where the front lamps will run.

If you're not a fan of drilling holes in your chassis, then two options I've used. 1/2 chain links welded along the chassis where the wiring will run. Or the last trailer I did was a motorbike trailer, and I found that 3/8" nuts and 1/2" nuts were a neat fit for the 10mm and 13mm corrugated split tubing.

In case your trailer ever needs to go into space, you could always use the NASA hand soldering guide...

http://www.protostack.com/download/NASA%20Student%20Handbook%20for%20Hand%20Soldering.pdf

(just make sure your microscope is handy for quality checking...)

In case your trailer ever needs to go into space, you could always use the NASA hand soldering guide...

http://www.protostack.com/download/NASA%20Student%20Handbook%20for%20Hand%20Soldering .pdf

(just make sure your microscope is handy for quality checking...)

A quick look at the course guide reminds me of the Air Force hand soldering course I had to pass.

Yeah I'm a solder, heat shrink where practical, then tape kind of person. if you wanna get more anal, transition heat shrink assemblies are available. Look a bit like pipe fittings.

One thing that can easily stuff an otherwise good wiring connection is if solder "wicks" up in to the insulation. Long story short it can weaken the wire and cause a break. first thing u know the wire fractures. Also solder is a poor mechanical connection, so mechanical support of some kind is my recommendation.

Happy wiring.

Jatt.