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Thread: Didge Making

  1. #1
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    Default Didge Making

    One of the local didgeridoo players asked if I could make him some didgeridoos.

    The idea was to use solid sticks and shape them to his liking.

    This our first attempt.
    The stick were cut in half on a bandsaw.

    The centre hole was carved out with an arbortec. It went pretty quickly but it wasn't really uniform.

    On the next stick I made up a base for the router with two dowels as guides. They should keep the router cut in the centre of the stick. Then the two halves should match up.

    It was a bit tricky following the rough edges of the two halves but ended up with neat half-round channels.

    Epoxy was used to glue the two halves back together.

    After the glue dried, the mouthpiece was shaped inside and out.

    A quick sound check......Not too bad.

    Next is to shape the outside.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

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  3. #2
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    Default Didge sound file

    The first didge sound file.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  4. #3
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    Default

    Is that you playing Scally? Ive always thought it the most amazingly expressive instrument. Well done, I like the character of the timber.
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  5. #4
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    Default

    My playing is much more basic.

    Terry is the player. He has worked out in the middle of Australia with the locals for several years and picked up some great techniques.

    It is such a unique sound.
    His idea is to find interesting sticks and make them into didgeridoos. This one was the trunk of a dead tree in my backyard.

    I am having trouble with epoxy glue. It doesn't want to set properly with these timbers. PVAs are working better. Maybe they need that bit if give that is in the PVAs.

    We shaped up a few smaller, hollow sticks the other day. Mainly shaping the mouthpiece and the opening. I sanded one to #500 and gave it a coat of Livos oil. It came up beautifully.
    They sound OK but don't have the warmth of the larger ones that we made.

    He is away getting more ideas so I expect we will have some new ideas to test shortly.
    Probably some more sticks.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  6. #5
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    Newcastle
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    Default

    Scally,

    What kind of epoxy is it and how old? Have you done a small test mix to check gel and set times etc?

    My "go to" book for rainy days...........Holmes Principles Of Physical Geology.

  7. #6
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    Thumbs up

    Fantastic sound!!!

    The Didgeridoo is one of the few instruments that grabs my attention and holds it. Love the sound.

  8. #7
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    Default

    It is West epoxy HiString and only a few months old.

    I should do some tests because I have never had this problem before.

    The last time I used it I was very precise with the ratios and used syringes - 5ml to 25ml so it would be exactly 1:5.


    I added fibres and sawdust to the mix. Maybe I added too much.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  9. #8
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    Default

    G'day Scally,

    I've been considering this method of didge making for some time but as yet have not given it a go. Your success has sent me out in the yard looking for something suitable. This is what I've found.

    Attachment 123371Attachment 123372

    Now, if you can spare a bit of time I've got a few questions.

    Do these look suitable?

    I cut them from a fallen tree that I guess has been on the ground for a few years. I've noticed that one of them has started to crack along the timber at the thinner end but I plan to cut this part off. Is there a way to ensure they don't start to crack along the entire length?

    Finally, did you use a jig to run your didge through the bandsaw or just freehand?

    Thanks for your help,
    Steve.

  10. #9
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    Default Stopping Cracks

    Go for it Steve.

    It was pretty much suck it and see for me.

    I couldn't think of a jig to cut them in half so it was done freehand.

    Your sticks look about 2m long. The one on the right looks a good thickness.
    The other looks a bit thin but the bulge on the end it what they like to see,

    I bought a hollow stick at the WWW show and it ended up with some cracks.
    This must be pretty common.

    If you can find smaller holes it would be no problem to fill them. Bigger cracks might be difficult.

    Apparently it is a common practice these days to flood the inside with PVA to fill even fine cracks.
    Pour glue in one end - rotate the stick to get all the surface covered, maybe block one end and sluish it around. Then drain the excess into a bucket.
    It is difficult to blow and get a good sound if there are cracks or holes.

    I have read that the flute makers do a similar thing except they use estapol or similar. This is to stop the wood getting wet with prolonged playing.

    If you seal the inside then put a finish on the outside, I expect that cracking should be minimal.

    See how you go.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  11. #10
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    Default

    Thanks Scally.

    They're both about 2.4m long at this stage so if I cut them down to get a 2.5 inch mouthpiece I should get about 1.4m from the smaller one and over 1.8m from the bigger one. I doubt I've got enough air in me to keep a 1.8m didge running so I'll probably have to shorten it from the big end.

    Thanks again for your help.

  12. #11
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Scally View Post
    I have read that the flute makers do a similar thing except they use estapol or similar. This is to stop the wood getting wet with prolonged playing.
    Its actually for the reason you mentioned Scally, leaks = poor tone and tuning. On finer instruments wax or oil is impregnated to preserve the timber. The choice of timber is critical as cracks swell and... well you know what happens.
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  13. #12
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    Default

    Yes Seb this timber is tricky stuff.
    A mate is trying to carve a djembe from a Camphor Laurel log. Too much hard work for me. He never has any skin left on his knuckles.
    He brought it to me for advice on how to stop it cracking. He waxed the end grain and the cracks closed up in a few days.

    How are you going with your ticks Steve?

    I don't think the length matters as far as playing goes. The main think is that the timber is sealed so no air escapes.
    My mates says that he can tell if air is escaping as soon as he starts playing.

    I'd keep the big end if I wanted to shorten the didge. That's the bit they really like.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  14. #13
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    Default

    I've had a go at the smaller stick and only just got some beeswax onto the mouthpiece today.

    It looks fantastic.

    Attachment 124242Attachment 124243

    I'm a little disappointed in the sound though, there are quite a few cracks in it so I'm guessing I've got a leak or two somewhere. I didn't pay too much attention to the parting line so that could be causing a few leaks as well.

    I might try filling all the external cracks with wax and see if that makes a bit of a difference.

    I ended up chipping out the inside of each piece with an old chisel as I didn't have a decent sized cove bit and the sanding disc on the angle grinder wasn't good for much but starting fires... Might have to look into one of those arbortec blades if I go ahead with the next one.

  15. #14
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    Default

    It looks pretty cool. You wont see one like that in a shop.

    You are keen using a chisel.
    Even using the big arbortec cutter it was steady work.
    The router does a nice neat job but I still use the arbortec to do the ends. It is good for shaping the outside quickly too.

    I made a couple of thin didges and I didn't like the sound much either. The fat ones have a much better sound.
    I put a heavy coat of glue on the inside when I was gluing the two halves back together to try to seal any leaks. It didn't get them all.
    Their were a couple of cracks and knots that I filled from the outside.
    The problem is the small cracks that you can't see.

    I guess that is why they flood the inside so the glue gets all over the inside surface.

    My glue-line is pretty obvious. It would be good if you could split the stick in half. Then you should get a near-invisible join. I think you would stuff a lot of sticks unless you had a good straight grain.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  16. #15
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    Default

    do you think that this router bit is large enough to make a nice line in each half of the log before gluing them back together?
    Watch out he bites!


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