Thread: 3.5m x 0.5m tabel top dowelled to subframe

Welcome, Stuart.

Looks like you are having fun. I hope you avoid the rookie mistakes I made in the early days. On this job I'd have failed to allow for wood movement, which can be critical for a table top.

If you are gluing the boards that make up the top together, you'll need to allow for expansion across the grain of the boards. If you are not gluing then together and you leave small gaps between the boards, you are likely in good shape.

The only potential issue I see with dowelling the top to the frame is allowing for wood movement, but is it necessary to take that into account on this job?

That's one very long table. Is it's purpose entertainment?

Welcome to the forum, Stuart.

That wouldn't be treated pine you're using for the top, would it? If it is, I'm not sure it's the wisest choice for a table top especially if it's going to be used for dining on. Most outdoor timbers (e.g. fence rails) are treated. The treatment of HW don't normally penetrate that deeply but pine I believe goes all the way to the middle.

You could drive those screws in a bit deeper by re drilling for that then drive them in and glue in a timber plug behind them ? They add some good strength .

Otherwise take one screw out at a time . Re drill for a wood peg and skew the holes so that when the two pegs get glued in they form a V sort of . That'll lock it together good. Use hardwood for the pegs . Just saw up 12 x 12mm hardwood . Shave then so their round at the start but you can leave them square at the end . another way of locking them . As long as they don't start splitting your rails . If they do shave them more.
Yep you can do the same locking the top down . I do plenty that way . Once again skew them so they are slightly different as you go along . Not a huge 45 degree skew , just a slight thing. Skewing and glueing them means the top wont lift off when you go to shift it by lifting on the top. Ive seen that happen a few times.

When I peg stuff together the pegs go in so tight I couldn't get them out without a drill if I wanted . So I don't glue most of them except for on the top if its getting pegged down.

How BIG are some of those G clamps your using ? They look huge in one pic.

Rob

Yep its for bbqs etc. Im not sure how much movement there will be as it was bolted to concrete posts for 18 years. I am taking the punt thst all the movement will be minimal....i hope

Hi Belstaff,
No its not treated. I just wanted a cheap three rail fence when we moved in 19 years ago. The termites slowly went through the posts and then they started on the northern end. We did however paint it with some internal ceiling paint. Not my best work ever but to get 18 years out of it was pretty good lol

Hi Rob,
That was my plan until i sheared some screws right off trying to get them out. So i built another sub fram from 73mm x 33mm white cypress. I am dowling and gluing it. Im using a 10mm hole with 9.5mm tassie oak dowels. The old recycled white cypress splits pretty readily, but oncd its in place its good for another 50 years.
I thought i had to do a 45 degree skew to get it good and strong, but on your advice ill drop it back to 20 degrees. That will be a lot easier to drill the top.
Ahhh yes the G clamps, 12 inch Malleable, they have held together my work for 19 years of welding and building and now my foray into woodworking. They are great mates to have around )