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Thread: Apothecary chest
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24th July 2018, 02:01 AM #106New Member
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Far better!
It compliments your drawer work.
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24th July 2018 02:01 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th July 2018, 02:03 AM #107
Your first post at Ubeaut! I am honoured. Thanks for the comment
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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24th July 2018, 02:15 AM #108
oh, these are much better.
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24th July 2018, 02:24 AM #109New Member
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24th July 2018, 07:41 AM #110
Much better. Even the small diameter IKEA ones are at least 24mm projection. I've been thinking any metallic knob was going to remind me of a Naval mine on that curved front. I'd still like to see how a small leather tab might look (smaller than the IKEA ones). The lower the profile of any pull might maintain the visual integrity of the curved front better.
Franklin
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24th July 2018, 07:44 AM #111
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24th July 2018, 09:00 AM #112
Derek, I wasn't as affronted by the metal knobs as some, though I agreed with you the ones you had were a bit large & domineering. But I think the wooden ones do look quite a bit better, and should certainly be a lot quieter!
Bringing the spigots through & wedging should certainly fix them solidly in position. What I've always done with wooden knobs is make the spigot about half the depth of the drawer front/door and a firm fit in the drawer, then insert a screw from the back. Screws don't hold well in long grain, of course, but by drilling an undersized hole in the knob part, you can get a wedging effect as the screw is driven home. The only advantage this offers over through wedging is that it's easier to remove, should that become necessary. I think I've needed to replace a knob because of damage only once in 30 odd years, so it's hardly a big deal!
Cheers,IW
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24th July 2018, 09:05 AM #113
Derek a couple more thoughts.. I'm not sure how you managed to drill all the screw holes for the handles accurately on the curved fronts originally, but if you have the slightest doubts about the pulls I would not be boring the fronts for fixing wedged tenons yet. Consider cutting off the tenons and drilling for fixing with a screw.
Cheers,Franklin
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24th July 2018, 09:48 AM #114
Hey Derek,
Bit late to the party but would something like this have suited?
https://www.timbecon.com.au/cabinet-...obs-matt-black 19x19?
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24th July 2018, 10:38 AM #115Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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24th July 2018, 10:49 AM #116
Hi Franklin
I have doubts that the small diameter at the base of the knob (about 11mm) would sustain a screw and not split. Hence the tenon. It will also be easier to keep the knob square since the baseline comes off a lathe and does not go through the vagueries of being cut off with a saw.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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24th July 2018, 10:54 AM #117
Great idea Ian. My thought is that I am not plannning to glue the tenon/spigot, but just hold it with the wedge. I shall make extra knobs for the "in case". If needed, the damaged knob will be cut off and the tenon simply knocked through the drawer front. I think it will be easier to insert a wedge than a screw, but for a minute or two, I was going to do it. Any thoughts?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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24th July 2018, 10:58 AM #118Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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24th July 2018, 11:27 AM #119
I must be different,
I liked the metal knobs I enjoyed the contrast,
the timber ones look like they blend in to much.
I will now erect a shield lol,
But really enjoying following this Derek thank you.
Cheers Matt,
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24th July 2018, 12:57 PM #120
I guess it depends on the timber. I turned these with a base about 20mm, pre drilled and fixed with a 6G coarse thread screw. They are fine. I don't have a very good drill press so I would be more worried about boring the 3/8" holes for the tenons all square and in line. I'm concerned that with all the effort you have put in so far that committing to a knob you may not be 110% sure about there is no room to change your mind later.
Franklin
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