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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    44

    Default Arbor Technique Query

    Hi All

    I am planning to make an arbor for my wedding. The arbor design I'm looking at is the one in the image below. The timber I'm planning to use are 150x150mm posts. I have not worked with such thick posts and was wondering how to make the connections circled in red in the image below. I'm thinking either steel plates and/or lag bolts.

    Any suggestions welcome and thanks for the help.

    arbor.JPG

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Sydney
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    Default

    the one thing you don't want to get wrong on your wedding planning.... because it'll end up with an early headache for you if it collapses !

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
    Posts
    575

    Default

    If it was mine, I'd be looking for steel plates with a couple of through bolts.
    I'm sure a better wood worker than me could do a neat joint without plates. I'm also assuming it will need to be assembled in place then dismantled.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    3,402

    Default

    Why so thick? It is going to be very heavy and will have to be buried in the ground, is this intended to be a permanent fixture?

    Rather than solid timber consider fabricating them as a box section from 19mm planks glued and nailed together. If it essential that they look solid then use mitered corner joints, you’d have to look very closely to tell. The legs can then be attached to either flat bases or long feet, rather than being buried. If you want to be really flash you could fill the bottom of the legs with sand for extra weight and stability.

    But, if you want to use solid timber then I would use bridle joints with either bolts, screws or dowels to pin them together.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    44

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Why so thick? It is going to be very heavy and will have to be buried in the ground, is this intended to be a permanent fixture?

    Rather than solid timber consider fabricating them as a box section from 19mm planks glued and nailed together. If it essential that they look solid then use mitered corner joints, you’d have to look very closely to tell. The legs can then be attached to either flat bases or long feet, rather than being buried. If you want to be really flash you could fill the bottom of the legs with sand for extra weight and stability.

    But, if you want to use solid timber then I would use bridle joints with either bolts, screws or dowels to pin them together.
    Hmm, that's a good idea too. The 150x150mm is definitely crazy heavy and don't plan on making it a permanent fixture. Thanks, I'll look into the box section idea.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes, definitely looking to get it assembled and dismantled.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    64
    Posts
    212

    Default

    Here is one I made for my son's wedding.
    2.4m high x 3.0m wide x 1.2 deep.
    Freestanding, 100mm square posts, designed to be disassembled & reassembled (3 pieces, 2 ends & 1 top)
    arbour.jpg

    arbour-end.jpg

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Looks good graham. Any pointers?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisvarghese View Post
    Looks good graham. Any pointers?

    I purposely kept away from angle joins. Gravity works better with a flat surface.
    I checked & screwed the overhead bits into the top beams.
    I mortise & tenoned the top & bottom rails on the side frames, then glued and clamped. The mitred bits are glued & screwed.
    The posts are grooved on the inside face for the removable of the 4 x front & rear upper braces. Stop-blocks in the grooves also accurately locate the correct position of these braces.
    The tops of the posts are slotted for the top frame to drop into, then through bolts holds it in place.
    2 people can put up or take down in 5 minutes, with a battery driver & a spanner.

    It now lives in their garden.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    Based upon the original concept design, instead of using 150sq material, I would look to laminating each member from three layers of 140 x 45 or similar, with the joints created by overlapping the layers as required. i.e. the two outer layers of the uprights would be longer than that in the middle, and the the centre layer of the rafter would lock into the gap in the upright.the middle joint could be done in similar fashion. Members would be relatively light if done in pine, and the entire unit can be separated to 4 members for portability, then reassembled with two 8-10mm bolts and nuts at each joint. Minimal joinery skills and equipment required.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    Based upon the original concept design, instead of using 150sq material, I would look to laminating each member from three layers of 140 x 45 or similar, with the joints created by overlapping the layers as required. i.e. the two outer layers of the uprights would be longer than that in the middle, and the the centre layer of the rafter would lock into the gap in the upright.the middle joint could be done in similar fashion. Members would be relatively light if done in pine, and the entire unit can be separated to 4 members for portability, then reassembled with two 8-10mm bolts and nuts at each joint. Minimal joinery skills and equipment required.
    Hmm, yea that's not a bad idea too. Cos I was thinking how do I notch out the middle of a post, this laminating way makes it tonnes easier.

    Thanks Malb

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