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Thread: Bed Head

  1. #1
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    Default Bed Head

    My nephew wanted a new bed head. He chose a design with a curved top and timber slats. He also chose NG Rosewood to match his chest of drawers.

    First we make a sketch which is them transferred to 3 mm MDF to make a template.

    IMG20230416155159.jpg


    Then the top is glued up to provide extra width and cut to the shape of the template on the band saw.
    IMG20230417101133.jpg


    The frame is assembled with floating tenons. The sides were cut into a rounded shape with a jig saw. Here it is ready for sanding.
    IMG20230418133222.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Hi John,

    I will be very interested to see how you will deal with the slats.

    Our queen-size bed has two rows of slats held by a rubber strip of slat holders which, over time, have deformed and split.
    The plan is to replace these with fixed slats notched into the middle and side supporting rails, but I am not sure if this is
    the best way to go about it!

    Cheers
    Yvan

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    Hi John,

    I will be very interested to see how you will deal with the slats.

    Our queen-size bed has two rows of slats held by a rubber strip of slat holders which, over time, have deformed and split.
    The plan is to replace these with fixed slats notched into the middle and side supporting rails, but I am not sure if this is
    the best way to go about it!

    Cheers
    Yvan
    Still exercising my head around this, Yvan.

    The frame and the slats have been put over the router to replace all sharp edges with a very small radius curve. The slats will be about 3 mm thinner than the frame. The final solution may be as simple as fastening each slat with two pocket hole screws at either end ... might be to rebate the frame to let in the slats ... all will be revealed in the fullness of time.

    All bright ideas gratefully accepted.

  5. #4
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    Default

    I recently went through this. The mortices were made with a Domino and squared with a hollow mortice chisel ...



    The slats fitted exactly into the mortices ...



    The slats were laminated into curves ...



    The headboard was hung (on French Cleats) separately from the base ...





    Hopefully some of this helps.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Derek,

    How did you attach it to the wall?

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Derek,

    How did you attach it to the wall?
    The bed and bedhead: final photos
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DJ’s Timber View Post
    Of course ... a French cleat ...

  9. #8
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    Default

    Slats secured in place with a combo of pocket screws and dowels.

    IMG20230423102821.jpg

    As I was finishing up I realised that the curved head did not preclude using floating tenons as i had previously thought. Stupid, I know, but it's spilt milk now. At least the unit is strong.

    Will likely use a French cleat to fasten it to the wall. I have three barbeque tables hung on the shed wall with French cleats. They work.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Default

    They sure do work.

    I have a little open cabinet for all of my metal hand planes. It holds a Stanley 3, 4, 5, 4.5, 5.5 within the cabinet. Sitting on top is a No 7, a Veritas shooting plane and a HNT Gordon A55 trying plane in ebony (my preciousss). The cabinet itself is very dense hardwood.

    The weight is extraordinary but it never has given the slightest hint towards failure. I think it is because the way it sits, any outward force on the cleat levers the force of the weight to the lower area and presses backwards into the wall which can in practicality take anything.

    Chris

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