Thread: Beehive - Horizontal Long Langstroth

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

Might need a bit more clearance between the frames, once they comb them up and cap them they get thick and they need room to get between them, usually 10 mm between the outer frames is what we go for.

I’ve set the ‘bee space’ to 9mm.
I’ll keep them on a diet so they don’t get to fat[emoji219]

Well you havent stinted on the accommodation. Thats 5 star.
Regards
John

Fantastic Pete !!!

I am very intrigued with the various sections covering the frames. Some of it mesh, perspex etc.
Is this part of the design? Can you point me in the right direction to find what their function(s) is?
Much appreciated!

Cheers

Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete

I’ve set the ‘bee space’ to 9mm.
I’ll keep them on a diet so they don’t get to fat[emoji219]

I can’t tell from the photos whether you’ve got beespace over the frames. Normally there’s another lip in the body to hold the inner covers at the right spacing. If they’re hard on the frames they will glue them down and I don’t think those little handle will be enough to lift them. I have to get my hive tool in and really pry them up, even with beespace.

Originally Posted by Bruce_B

I can’t tell from the photos whether you’ve got beespace over the frames. Normally there’s another lip in the body to hold the inner covers at the right spacing. If they’re hard on the frames they will glue them down and I don’t think those little handle will be enough to lift them. I have to get my hive tool in and really pry them up, even with beespace.

I just put the hive mat directly on the frames without any clearance. Been doing it this way for more than 20 years without any major drama.

Pete

I had to laugh because I thought "wow" after the first post, but then it just got better and better.

Superb job.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bruce_B

I can’t tell from the photos whether you’ve got beespace over the frames. Normally there’s another lip in the body to hold the inner covers at the right spacing. If they’re hard on the frames they will glue them down and I don’t think those little handle will be enough to lift them. I have to get my hive tool in and really pry them up, even with beespace.

Hi Bruce
I do have bee space above the frames. They don’t sit in the usual second rebate as you point out, but I have packer beads that are affixed to the underside of the cover boards. I did this because the hive sides are only 23mm thick so it’s thin for double rebates. Not normal, I know, but I’m not normal either.

I’ll take and post a few interior pics when I get a moment.

Regards
Pete.

Originally Posted by yvan

Fantastic Pete !!!

I am very intrigued with the various sections covering the frames. Some of it mesh, perspex etc.
Is this part of the design? Can you point me in the right direction to find what their function(s) is?
Much appreciated!

Cheers

Hi Yvan
To explain the frame covers;

1. In general, multiple cover boards allows me to only expose the bees within the section that I am working on, or inspecting. That reduces bee anger & stress and reduces the numbers of upset bees flying around trying to sting me.

2. Some covers are Solid to keep the hive temperature constant. However, some ventilation is required to reduce humidity and condensation within the hive during the hotter months. To achieve air flow I have a couple of covers with the brass fly mesh. I can add or remove them as required. When less air flow is needed I replace them with a solid cover board.

3. The clear acrylic cover boards act as solid cover boards with the added benefit of seeing the bees without upsetting them at all. Great if you just want to show your bees off to interested friends. The less stress the bees have, the healthier the hive will be. Healthier means less bacteria, viruses and annoying bugs.

4. The only other thing you see through the acrylic other than the honeycomb frames is the feeder. It’s the frame with the two holes. The bees can be fed sugar syrup when resources are lean, usually in winter but not always, by crawling into those two holes to access the syrup which is in a plastic container underneath.
Hope this helps. There’s an incredible amount to learn about beekeeping and I’m just a beginner.
Pete.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Pete

I had to laugh because I thought "wow" after the first post, but then it just got better and better.

Superb job.

Regards
Paul

Thanks Paul, I’m glad you are enjoying it. [emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219][emoji219]

Pete

Originally Posted by cava

I just put the hive mat directly on the frames without any clearance. Been doing it this way for more than 20 years without any major drama.

I’ve heard lots of beekeepers doing that. Seems like a nice simple method but there’s no woodwork involved so should never be mentioned in this forum ever again![emoji2957]

Regards

Pete.

Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete

I’ve heard lots of beekeepers doing that. Seems like a nice simple method but there’s no woodwork involved so should never be mentioned in this forum ever again![emoji2957]

Regards

Pete.

Ha Ha, good point (my covers are plywood).

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. Your bees will be a happy lot indeed !!!

Cheers,
Yvan

Lovely - but I was somewhat distracted by a severe case of shop/tool envy... Some serious collector's syndrome going on there!

To conclude; a quick happy snap of the new hives doing their thing in my backyard.

Regards and best wishes.

Pete.