Thread: Beginner - Cedar/Poplar desk

Originally Posted by leeko

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum, and new to woodworking in general. Hi!

I'm planning to build a desk for our office. It'll be L-shaped, 7' x 28" and 6' x 28", and the top will be mostly aromatic cedar with a poplar surround. I've attached a (crude) picture of what I'm thinking below.

I know this probably isn't the easiest project to get started on, but I'm up for the challenge

I do have a few questions before I get started, though:

1. I've drawn the joint between the two parts of the table top as a herringbone pattern, as I think it might look more interesting and I read that a 45 degree mitre joint might separate over time d/t expansion/contraction. Does anyone see a problem with this type of joint? I would think it's a little easier too...

2. I've read that biscuit jointing the 1x5 planks is the best way of putting it all together to make the surface. I don't have a biscuit jointer, but I do have a router. I know there are router bits available that do a similar job to a biscuit cutter - is there any reason not to do this, or do I really need to spend more on the dedicated jointer?

3. Lastly, If anyone has any good links to table making guides, I'd love to see them. I've done a bit of reading, but you can never be too prepared!

Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward to posting pics of the work in progress.

Best regards,

Lee

It will work but it is 100% certain that over time the finish over the join will crack because the two joining sections of timber are expanding and contracting at different rates because the grain runs 90 degrees to each other.
No reason not to use a router I used splines and a router for years before i got a biscuit joiner!

The Triton biscuit system was essentially a router in a table with a specific diameter slotting/groving bit with a piviting fence

Thanks for the replies - I've decided not to go with the above design, for precisely those reasons. Am working on something a little simpler, and will hopefully be back soon with some pictures

Lee

Lee
your best "solution" for that sort of table is to use Plywood for the top -- that way the corner joint can be a mitre or square and you wont have problems with wood movement.
You can edge the ply with polular or aromatic cedar to hide the plies. If you do use narrow edging and you can glue it straight on and hold it with painters tape while the glue dries.