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Thanks Derek.Quote:
Originally Posted by derekcohen
Other than a bunch of block planes my other planes are a #18C MF fore plane, a 9C smoother and a bailey #4. So can i assume using the 9C or the #4 with an aggressive cut can be used in absence of a jack plane to remove the bulk of the bevel? Then finish off with the same plane set for smoothing..? if you know what I mean.
cheers
mal
Mal, the planes you have are perfect. I would use the fore plane to remove the bulk, and then finish with the #4.
What timber are you using? If interlocked, then set the #4 with a closed up chipbreaker. If you are unsure of this, bring your planes over to my workshop, and I will show you how. I'm about 5 minutes across the Leach in Rossmoyne. If interested, PM me for details.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Ok Derek, some context. I haven't started on the table yet, but its something i am planning to make a start on over the xmas break. I want to learn the techniques etc on some cheap bunnings grade pine before investing in some decent timber. I also want to make sure i have the requisite tools. My workshop is pretty well equipped with good hand tools but my stable of planes is limited. But based on your comments it appears i am well set. Have just ordered a Shaker furniture book by Thos. Moser which has the drawings for the nightstand etc. should be here in a few weeks. Am looking forward to starting this project but being my first large piece I am sure I’ll be hitting you up for more advice over a coffee some time 😊.Quote:
Originally Posted by derekcohen
Cheers
mal
That same table by Moser was my first woodworking project 40 years ago using borrowed tools in a school workshop. I still have the table and it still looks good. I think it is a terrific first project because it is a timeless design, doesn't require much timber, and teaches several commonly used furniture making tasks. I liked it so much I have done several more versions over the years.
I did the bevels with hand planes exactly as Derek described. One additional tip is to occasionally scribble some pencil lines on the surface you are are planing so you can better judge your progress as you go and not overshoot your boundary lines. Don't go too fast. Pay attention to feedback from the planes about grain direction and blade sharpness. And resharpen your plane blades before the final cuts.
I'm looking forward to seeing your project!
Here is my first one and another made around 2010. Both are in American red oak. The old one was an oil finish and the later one in clear shellac. But odd lighting in both pix, sorry.
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Hi Mal,
I've built a couple of similar tables with a WIP here showing the one I built from the plan in Moser's book.
You will also have to taper the legs as well as do the undercut on the top. The Millers Falls fore plane will be the one to use for that.
It's a lot of fun to do this build and it's a great functional piece of furniture.
Enjoy!
Hello and happy new year everyone...
..an update..didn't get to spend as much time in the shed over the holidays as planned due the incessant heat; no AC in my shed.
However, I did manage to get all the main timbers cut, flattened, squared etc. And the top is also fully glued up and flat and square....25 1/4" corner to corner....both of them....a bit chuffed about that I must admit :D
so might start on the bevel tomorrow....heat depending...:)
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