Thread: Building a 10 ft long Jarrah table

Howdy, I think all these figures are not critical as long as they are reasonable. I will show you the pictures when it is done (without showing the finished table of course)

Well done Scott. That is a great looking table. I would like to suggest that you find a better looking model for your people shots

Ok

Cute!

You win !

Slick Job Wongo - love that Jarrah!

I made a 10 ft by 4ft jaragh table some years ago for a club I was a member of, I was a raw novice at woodwork then and my method of construction is not up to your standard, but it has stood the test of time, the base I made out of pine, stained to match the jaragh, the top was tongue & groove jaragh flooring would you believe I glued the 14 pieces together in one group, how it has stayed together in one piece is a miracle, I attached a second thickness around the perimeter to give it the required thickness, you can see the t&g on the ends where I filled in the spaces.
When I think back of how it could have beena disaster, but it was a good lesson .

That is a great looking table mate.

Hi Wongo,

Wow. That 8 foot table looks like a 10 foot table with the top on.

As others have said, can,'t wait to see the table finished, those boards look superb.

Another glue question. Does the Titebond II give you invisible glue lines between the boards and have you experienced any creep with Titebond II on table tops before?

Cheers
Pops

Originally Posted by Pops

Another glue question. Does the Titebond II give you invisible glue lines between the boards and

Pops,

I think the quality of the glue lines is determined by the quality of the joints. It shouldn’t have anything to do with the glue. After all excess glue should be removed and sanded anyway. If the joined surfaces are tight then the glue lines should be invisible.

Originally Posted by Pops

have you experienced any creep with Titebond II on table tops before?

Not so far but I can’t tell you what will happen in 20 years. I have so much faith in glues they make these days so I don’t normally worry about it.

Originally Posted by Howdya do that

Wongo, I would like to hear more about attaching the top to the base
How far from the top do you put the holes for your buttons?
What thickness are the buttons?
How far apart?

I used offcuts from the table top to make the buttons. It was crosscut to 50cm wide and the rebate was cut on a router table. I sanded them and finish them with a cost of oil.

I don’t think it matters where you cut the slots as long as the ones on the end rails are wider. The slots are 20mm deep.

Another thing to do is to insert a couple of dowels to the base and drill the match dowel holes on the top. This will make things a lot easier when the top is installed on site. I placed the place on the bottom side of the table top. Aligned them, (see post 41 to find out how) and marked the dowel holes.

The dowel should be located in the middle of the end rails. This will ensure the top expands and contracts evenly from the middle.

While the table is upside down, I marked and drilled the pilot holes for the buttons.

Finish

I have done 3 costs of minwax wipe-on poly on the under side of the top and the base. Now I just need to wipe 5 coats to the top and the table is ready.