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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
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    2,685

    Default Too many drawers!

    After a long delay, I'm back to the desk.
    All bits are cut to size and I just need to drill the holes for the Zipbolts I bought to hold it all together.
    I also bought some drawer runners or I should say overbought!. I needed enough for 8 drawers. Elraco had 500mm Harn runners for under $3 if you bought 20 so I figured 8 x 2 plus a couple of spares will give me the price break. Turns out the price was for a full set, not just per side. I now have enough for 20 drawers.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Geoff sorry for laughing but if memory serves me right you did similar some time ago its how we met. Something about buying an office chair and ending up with a truck load still I love my daughtsmans stools.

    I see some fine cabinets with draws being made.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    79
    Posts
    601

    Default Nrb

    I know you did sagultor but a rail running along the front underneath from end to end and on the small return would make it stronger,say 50-60 deep X mm may add a bit to the "look"

  5. #19
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    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
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    Default

    There is a piece across the back about 200mm deep which, according to sagulator, will reduce sag significantly.
    No room for anything at the front or it will be too low to get my legs under.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    79
    Posts
    601

    Default Nrb

    OK know what you mean

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Denmark, WA
    Age
    66
    Posts
    174

    Default

    One thing you could do to reduce the risk of sag is to change the orientation of your corner support panels. By running them at 90 degrees to the back edge instead of parallel you reduce the unsupported span. This may mean reducing the panel size to suit the required leg clearance.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Reversing the corner support will lose me too much leg room in the corner. The computer screen will be across the corner and I'll sit into the corner to use it.
    I'm going to have to trust the sagulator as all the bits are already cut to suit the original design.

    Worst comes to worst, I'll put a steel leg at the junction of the top and return.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Another question, which I guess I should ask in the routing forum, is how to bullnose the desk edge.
    I've done this before on a single piece of 25mm or 32mm MDF, in multiple passes to do top and bottom but I'm not sure how to do this around a corner i.e the inside between the main desk and the return.

    Any pointers?

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowyskiesau View Post
    Another question, which I guess I should ask in the routing forum, is how to bullnose the desk edge.
    I've done this before on a single piece of 25mm or 32mm MDF, in multiple passes to do top and bottom but I'm not sure how to do this around a corner i.e the inside between the main desk and the return.

    Any pointers?
    Did you figure it out?

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowyskiesau View Post

    I'm planning to build a computer/electronics bench in the corner of one of the spare rooms. Sizes as shown, room is 3600x2500 so some of the dimensions(oif the desk) may need to be adjusted (don't know where that 800.4mm measurement came from).
    You have measured from the top of the desk on one side, diagonally to the top of the cupboard on the other
    A squared + B squared etc works out to 800.3905, or 800.4 between friends.

    Steve
    The fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tezza View Post
    Did you figure it out?
    The best, but not easiest, solution is a masons mitre for the join. I found a site with a jig for the mitre so I'll give that a try, lots of spare bits to practice on.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowyskiesau View Post
    The best, but not easiest, solution is a masons mitre for the join. I found a site with a jig for the mitre so I'll give that a try, lots of spare bits to practice on.
    Butt the tops together as if installed, secure, and do your routing

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tezza View Post
    Butt the tops together as if installed, secure, and do your routing
    AS someone previously pointed out, the radius of the bullnose at the join will be different than the straight part. Not by much and it could be sanded out but a masons mitre will mean I just have to route the bullnose on straight pieces i.e. not around a bend.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    50
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    20

    Default

    ok sorry
    how much is the jig worth?

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tezza View Post
    ok sorry
    how much is the jig worth?
    Too damn much for a one off exercise! Cheapest I saw locally was around $199
    I did get this link for building a jig from the routerforums.com site. It's in French but there's pictures

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