Thread: A Coffee Table With A Twist

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I did try playing with that idea however that will mean I would have to abandon the rail system. The rail system is
the edge of the table that will accept accessories trays and holders like these examples:

Sorry I might be misunderstanding something here but I thought the (rail) storage system were the trays that will fit in the void created by the closed panels? In the graphics I can't quite understand why the underbevel will mess with the rail system. And on the point of the rail system, could you not instead use the void between the bottom panel of the top and the bottom of the top structural rails for storage and forego the trays in the top itself? This allows you to bring the thickness of the frame and panel down to a better proportion. If I understand your drawing properly.

Untitled-2 (1).jpeg

Originally Posted by mic-d

Sorry I might be misunderstanding something here but I thought the (rail) storage system were the trays that will fit in the void created by the closed panels?

Its not primarily for that but could be used to store extra rail accessories yeah.

Originally Posted by mic-d

In the graphics I can't quite understand why the underbevel will mess with the rail system. And on the point of the rail system, could you not instead use the void between the bottom panel of the top and the bottom of the top structural rails for storage and forego the trays in the top itself? This allows you to bring the thickness of the frame and panel down to a better proportion. If I understand your drawing properly.

At the moment the design is like this from the rear.

play mat.jpg

The two blue 4mm panels will be clothed and will have a groove for them to slide in and out of. I've kept this
modular for two reasons. 1. they can be easily cleaned, 2. they're reversible, blue on one side, red the other.
The cup holder is only an example and wont go on the back of the coffee table.

Very quick example of why the bevel edge might not work, its down to width of the panels. Edit: This is only an example of the rail. final groove width has to be decided and the groove will go around the two sides and front only.

holders1.jpg

Another reason I'd like to keep the frame is because it stops cards and components from falling off the table.

Here's a fine example of an antique games table:

IMG_9188-scaled.jpg IMG_9193-scaled.jpg IMG_9178-scaled.jpg IMG_9184-scaled.jpg

Originally Posted by mic-d

Sorry I might be misunderstanding something here but I thought the (rail) storage system were the trays that will fit in the void created by the closed panels? In the graphics I can't quite understand why the underbevel will mess with the rail system.

It takes a while for my brain to work but I think I can visualise what you're saying now, I'll have to do some measurements & drawings to see what it looks like. Cheers Mic.

I dont understand what your talking about Sam . You show a games table design with two tops and they spin and fold out the same as an antique and yet the drawings show drawers sliding out of the top . What the ??.


That antique picture is technically a Tea table as well. Easy to mix up the two at a quick glance. The games table was lined with Baize or felt and the tea table was polished on the inside.
Do you know the difference between a tea table and a game table?

https://www.google.com/search?client...cQBSgAegQIBxAC

And that Tea table picture doesn't have the correct hinges which is something Ive been wondering about your design. What hinges are you using ? Card table hinges? The hinge choice can determine some of the design points of the top on these.

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

I dont understand what your talking about Sam .

That picture you posted is from the rear Rob. I'll post a some more diagrams tomorrow which I hope explains it better.

Originally Posted by auscab

the drawings show drawers sliding out of the top . What the ??.

I see how you're looking at it now lol . There's about a 20mm gap between top and bottom panel leaf, thats where the drawers are sliding out from.

Also the trays (drawers) get taken out before opening the top up. The trays can then be attached to the rail on the outside of the table edge like this:

Untitled.jpg

So the two green arrows are the two tops ?
The tops rotates around on the blue arrow direction?
The red dot is where the top pivots open? At its back. And it flips open on the red arrow?

And you have removable drawers within the top.

The drawers are placed in the middle ?? I cant see how drawers will work at all. The drawing makes no sense.


play mat a.jpg

Originally Posted by auscab

So the two green arrows are the two tops ?
The tops rotates around on the blue arrow direction?
The red dot is where the top pivots open? At its back. And it flips open on the red arrow?

And you have removable drawers within the top.

The drawers are placed in the middle ?? I cant see how drawers will work at all. The drawing makes no sense.

If I may butt in here Sam... Auscab you've got it right as I understand it. If the table were opened up with the 'drawers' still in place you'd just see trays sitting in the middle of the games top which would be removed to open up one big flat surface with no division in the middle. Or maybe you'd have to remove them before opening the table...same same.

That graphic with 'drawers' on both sides of the table top would allow you to do what I suggested about lightening the top with recesses, only they wouldn't be faux drawers fronts they'd be functional.
Personally I favour using the void I suggested in the edited drawing I posted for storage and make the table top thinner. You can still have the top 'sunken' relative to the frame and the smaller opening on the hinge side would just has a removable insert, so the whole surface is unimpeded with divisions.

Originally Posted by auscab

So the two green arrows are the two tops ?
The tops rotates around on the blue arrow direction?
The red dot is where the top pivots open? At its back. And it flips open on the red arrow?

And you have removable drawers within the top.

The drawers are placed in the middle ??

Yes to all of the above.

The drawers are actually trays, From my research this design has never been done before, at least I can't find anything like it, I don't know if that's a good or bad thing!. The drawers do not run on anything other than the cloth top and bottom, there are no guides or sliders, three trays simply fit withing the gap, they cannot be pushed to far because behind them would sit further trays which will only get revealed once the table is fully opened, and obviously there is no side to side movement because they would be next to one another with only enough room to slide out.

I will do a drawing and post it tomorrow.

Originally Posted by mic-d

Personally I favour using the void I suggested in the edited drawing I posted for storage and make the table top thinner. You can still have the top 'sunken' relative to the frame and the smaller opening on the hinge side would just has a removable insert, so the whole surface is unimpeded with divisions.

Hey Mic, Just saw your post, do you want my Sketchup plan so you can show me what you mean exactly, I like the idea.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Hey Mic, Just saw your post, do you want my Sketchup plan so you can show me what you mean exactly, I like the idea.

No Way! . I stopped using Sketchup more than 10 years ago so it would take me too long to get up to speed. If you open the picture I edited in this post A Coffee Table With A Twist you'll see the void I mean. If you put a floor in this you could make it storage instead of the trays in the top. You could even install a pair of trays under the hidden part of that void. I imagine you have some kind of table pivot in the centre which would prevent a second full size tray on that hidden area.

I don't like the sound of the trays running on the cloth and without guides etc, you'll have to deal with wear of the cloth and racking (sp?) of the trays.

If you somehow manage to use that void instead, you could easily make the frames for the top say 20-25mm thick and with the panel just 14mm that still gives you a 6-11mm border to stop cards etc falling off. But because the panel in sunken in the frame, there will still be a gap of 12-22 mm on the hinge side when it's closed ( same as what you have now only narrower) and this would be closed with a simple insert rather than trays, so when you open up the top is clear of obstructions through the middle as you wanted to do with your current design.

Originally Posted by mic-d

If you put a floor in this you could make it storage instead of the trays in the top.

What do you mean by floor?.