Thread: A Coffee Table With A Twist

Do you mean this floor?:

IMG_0206.jpg

Ok . Maybe I see a way from that. ??

When the top is opened is the playing surface recessed lower than the solid surrounding ? That gives a gap for trays to be inserted when its closed up from behind or in front yeah? Do they slide in on the felt?

Originally Posted by mic-d

I imagine you have some kind of table pivot in the centre which would prevent a second full size tray on that hidden area.

Yeah, the pivotal point involves abit of geometry, if you look into it you cant just slap a pivot point in willy nilly, you have to find the pivot point through the geometry of the base and table surface, if you don't then its all cockeyed.

Originally Posted by auscab

Ok . Maybe I see a way from that. ??

When the top is opened is the playing surface recessed lower than the solid surrounding ? That gives a gap for trays to be inserted when its closed up from behind or in front yeah? Do they slide in on the felt?

Yep you got it Rob spot on, they'll slide on the felt, or whatever I decide to buy in terms of cloth.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Do you mean this floor?:

yeah that one. So what’s going on with that void there, can’t it be used for storage instead of in the top?

Originally Posted by mic-d

yeah that one. So what’s going on with that void there, can’t it be used for storage instead of in the top?

That can and no doubt will be used as storage yeah.

Originally Posted by mic-d

yeah that one. So what’s going on with that void there, can’t it be used for storage instead of in the top?

To put the trays yes certainly, what do you have in mind for the table top?, what measurements would you suggest
thickness etc.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Yeah, the pivotal point involves abit of geometry, if you look into it you cant just slap a pivot point in willy nilly, you have to find the pivot point through the geometry of the base and table surface, if you don't then its all cockeyed.

I’d Just draw the base dimension on a piece of scrap board to scale . So use 10 mm to represent 100 mm. And cut out a piece of paper the same for the top. Then use an awl or spike through the top to find the point that works. It’l show itself pretty fast. I do the same when trying to understand how a hinge will swing a door when it’s not just a straight forward simple thing.

What hinges are you using for the top? It’s usually one of the first things you figure out doing card tables.

And the top pivot bolt . Have you seen an original before? They are a thread about 10 mm or 3/8” with a square nut that is easy to spin with your fingers so you can reach under to do up or loosen by hand. The thread goes through a flat plate and is fixed , peened over or welded, with two counter sunk holes for two screws through the flat so it can be screwed into the underside of the top. The flat plate is recessed in flush.
And it’s long enough to go through a board that is fixed into the top of your base from front to back. About 100 mm wide and 19 mm thick.

Rob .

Here's a lovely example of a full size dining table that converts into a game table, I'd make one of these but wanted one that can be shrunk down in size!:

il_1588xN.1433998848_gwko.jpg il_1588xN.1433999080_fh18.jpg

All the same, its a beautiful table.

Originally Posted by auscab

I’d Just draw the base dimension on a piece of scrap board to scale . So use 10 mm to represent 100 mm. And cut out a piece of paper the same for the top. Then use an awl or spike through the top to find the point that works. It’l show itself pretty fast. I do the same when trying to understand how a hinge will swing a door when it’s not just a straight forward simple thing.

What hinges are you using for the top? It’s usually one of the first things you figure out doing card tables.

And the top pivot bolt . Have you seen an original before? They are a thread about 10 mm or 3/8” with a square nut that is easy to spin with your fingers so you can reach under to do up or loosen by hand. The thread goes through a flat plate and is fixed , peened over or welded, with two counter sunk holes for two screws through the flat so it can be screwed into the underside of the top. The flat plate is recessed in flush.
And it’s long enough to go through a board that is fixed into the top of your base from front to back. About 100 mm wide and 19 mm thick.

Rob .

My parents had one (see my first post from this thread), I think it was french, I used it to hide my toys in the recess. It fascinated me because of how it swiveled and opened up into this big tabletop. I've only ever seen one example of that style of furniture and it sold at Christies for about 15k. I have a pdf book by William Krase who
goes into the mechanics and hardware needed to make these types of tables. As for the hinges, I have it nailed down to 2 types but can't remember what they are!. I'll post tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice as always Rob.

Brain is now closed for the night...

Originally Posted by auscab

What hinges are you using for the top? It’s usually one of the first things you figure out doing card tables.

Probably these:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/16304111...3ABFBMsKCX4_xi

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

To put the trays yes certainly, what do you have in mind for the table top?, what measurements would you suggest
thickness etc.

Another choice are backflap or countertop hinges mortised into the face of the border (As in the 'face' in the open position, not on the edge) you won't see much in coffee table mode and in playing mode you'll have two nice brass hinges visible.

On the dimensions of the frame border. Ultimately it's up to you about the proportions and I would use CAD to decide it. You can quickly make changes and work in 3D, I've found it the most efficient way. But there are some things to consider if you open up the edited image attached. Whether or not you put storage in the top, if you want to have a clear playing table through the centre line, then the dimension 'Y' has to be the same as the panel thickness. If the dimension 'X' (Frame width minus rebate for panel) is say 60mm then that thinner border which I've put the dimensions can only be 60x14mm. Maybe that's enough. If you want to make it thicker, take your panel thickness up to 17mm finished thickness for example). If you shrink the frame depth down to 25mm (so table top is 50mm closed) and you use a 17mm panel then the gap in the closed top is only 16mm. You'll still need an insert to fill this gap and I guess it could be routed out to French fit pens, pencils etc, you know shallow things maybe 8mm thick and cup holder hole etc. Hope that makes sense.

play mat.jpeg

Originally Posted by mic-d

You'll still need an insert to fill this gap and I guess it could be routed out to French fit pens, pencils etc, you know shallow things maybe 8mm thick and cup holder hole etc. Hope that makes sense.

What are French fit pens, pencils?.

Ultimately if I want to bring down the overall width of the table top I need to buy a new panel. I can a get a full sheet of 13mm Birch plywood American Oak crown G2S for $99 ex GST. Have to wait for them to make it though as its made to order.