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30th March 2009, 11:20 PM #16
I agree with RayM
make a series of relief cuts into close to the cut line
then as you cut with the jig saw you're only cutting off small pieces and are unlikley to break the blade
and buy good quality blades, the thicker the better
ian
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30th March 2009 11:20 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st March 2009, 12:36 AM #17
The reason I didn't suggest this is 'cos the end isn't flat & squared, so won't fully support the CS. All too easy to get a catch and accidentally cut past the line. Of course, he could use the CS to square it up, but then runs the risk of cutting too deeply into the top part of the curve that he wants to keep.
Another case of power-tools being faster, but not necessarily better.
- Andy Mc
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31st March 2009, 07:48 AM #18
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31st March 2009, 08:43 AM #19
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31st March 2009, 07:31 PM #20Golden Member
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I couldn't be phased making relief cuts so I went with the drill hole idea then back to the jigsaw. Worked an absolute treat. Thanks for all the great ideas folks.
Now I just need to shape the curve somewhat. Given this was a "commission" from LOML, what tool will I need to buy to get this shaped nicely. I'm thinking something like a spokeshave. Would that be right?
Cheers,
Af.___________________________________________________________
"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me."
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31st March 2009, 08:46 PM #21
Rasp, file, 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, etc, etc grit sandpaper or else a sanding attachment for a 100mm angle grinder and a face mask. You may end up disliking spokeshaves on that end grain but they're a good friend of a tool to have
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31st March 2009, 09:36 PM #22
I cut 50+ all the time with the jig saw, it should kill it.
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31st March 2009, 11:11 PM #23
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1st April 2009, 12:24 AM #24
Hehehe.
Now this is where I'd use the "nose" of a light belt sander, starting with as coarse a grit as I could get.
Works alright so long as you don't apply any pressure and let the paper cut at it's own rate. Otherwise it skews the tension & tracking.
- Andy Mc
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1st April 2009, 09:41 PM #25
Ditto the belt sander. Also for fairing in the transitions beyond the new cut. For that operation, flip the piece to top down, instead of working overhead - easier to control and assess progress.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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2nd April 2009, 01:54 PM #26wood butcher
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Any work commissioned by LOML is an excuse to buy another "job specific" power tool IMO. Don't let an purchasing opportunity pass you buy (pun intended).
Cheers
Bryan
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2nd April 2009, 05:43 PM #27Golden Member
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2nd April 2009, 09:16 PM #28Hammer Head
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you can get long jigsaw blades from festool. they fit most jig saws
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