Thread: Cutting a curve in a thick slab ...

Originally Posted by RayM

I'd be ripping a number of cuts down to near the chalk line about 1 every 15-20mm using a circular saw. Then using the jig saw to cut the curve. As the ripped areas are cut by the jig saw, they can be knocked off and the open space will allow for more freedom in the blade movement around the curve. This is what I have done on thick curves in the past.

The reason I didn't suggest this is 'cos the end isn't flat & squared, so won't fully support the CS. All too easy to get a catch and accidentally cut past the line. Of course, he could use the CS to square it up, but then runs the risk of cutting too deeply into the top part of the curve that he wants to keep.

Another case of power-tools being faster, but not necessarily better.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

The reason I didn't suggest this is 'cos the end isn't flat & squared, so won't fully support the CS. All too easy to get a catch and accidentally cut past the line. Of course, he could use the CS to square it up, but then runs the risk of cutting too deeply into the top part of the curve that he wants to keep.

Another case of power-tools being faster, but not necessarily better.

I think i can see the darksider trying to get out

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Shame you're not a bit closer, my jigsaw will handle that thickness no worries.

YEH a jigsaw like you were doing.Im with DJ shouldnt be any trouble for a half decent jigsaw these days.
Anyway by the look of it it is only another 4 blades and you would have it finished by now

I couldn't be phased making relief cuts so I went with the drill hole idea then back to the jigsaw. Worked an absolute treat. Thanks for all the great ideas folks.

Now I just need to shape the curve somewhat. Given this was a "commission" from LOML, what tool will I need to buy to get this shaped nicely. I'm thinking something like a spokeshave. Would that be right?

Cheers,
Af.

Rasp, file, 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, etc, etc grit sandpaper or else a sanding attachment for a 100mm angle grinder and a face mask. You may end up disliking spokeshaves on that end grain but they're a good friend of a tool to have

I cut 50+ all the time with the jig saw, it should kill it.

Originally Posted by springwater

Rasp, file, 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, etc, etc grit sandpaper or else a sanding attachment for a 100mm angle grinder and a face mask. You may end up disliking spokeshaves on that end grain but they're a good friend of a tool to have

tend to agree, but make the file a bastard rather than a fine cut

glue the sandpaper to some 2" dowel and 2 x 1 sticks to help with the shaping



ian

Hehehe.

Now this is where I'd use the "nose" of a light belt sander, starting with as coarse a grit as I could get.

Works alright so long as you don't apply any pressure and let the paper cut at it's own rate. Otherwise it skews the tension & tracking.

Ditto the belt sander. Also for fairing in the transitions beyond the new cut. For that operation, flip the piece to top down, instead of working overhead - easier to control and assess progress.

Cheers,
Joe

Any work commissioned by LOML is an excuse to buy another "job specific" power tool IMO. Don't let an purchasing opportunity pass you buy (pun intended).

Cheers

Bryan

Originally Posted by Tung tied

Any work commissioned by LOML is an excuse to buy another "job specific" power tool IMO. Don't let an purchasing opportunity pass you buy (pun intended).

My plan exactly!

Thought I'd post a photo of the "relief holes" for those interested.

you can get long jigsaw blades from festool. they fit most jig saws