Thread: Would you use cyprus for window frames?

I have used seasoned white cypress for window frames quite successfully (on a cubby house), however it is probably not the "ideal" timber. As it dries it has a tendency to check, so unless you can get seasoned cypress, you may have issues.

I've done some timber windows for the house and always use WRC as it is just so easy to work with (and it matched the existing windows).

Another timber to look at is paulownia, as it has similar properties to WRC.

Hello Jafakatie,
agree with Vernonv -very, very old cypress at a pinch, though you will need to thoroughly suss it out for small cracks. It can split as it ages dep on where it has been used. I would not go near it newly milled. Machining up glazing bars (small section) can be hairy with the knots issue. I used some recycled floorboards years ago for mirror frames and found it had a tendency to split when working near the knots though it develops a sort of softness to work otherwise, as it ages.
Doing the windows in my own house and am using hoop pine out of salvaged 1200 dia tree. Sawn into 55mm slabs and stacked out for 8 yrs. Very stable and excellent to work with. BUT I have a 1500 wide eave/walkway round the house that protects the windows and walls. Finishing some in solver decking oil and some in Ultradeck waterbased as an experiment. The ultradeck is tricky to put on the hoop as it stains deeply as it goes. Maybe pre-wetting would solve this? Sorry I digress.
I've heard that paulonia gets more resiliant as it ages.
Have you thought of recycling silky oak ones. There are some excellent recycling shops in Bris. You may even score some wrc beams. Oregon windows are not unknown and oregon often appears as beams in recyclers yards in large section-250mmx100 or so by up to 6 metres. Once again get the least knotty and look for the closest growth rings you can find. 1.5mm apart on the end grain is lovely.
Cheers, Tony.

From my limited experience with wood work in most instances the different costs of the timber is the least cost you have to consider.once you take all the other factors into account. WRC and Paulownia are well recognised timbers for window frames for many good reasons and have stood the tests of time. Paulownia is easier to work with and is lighter in colour and weight. Check your prices of the various timbers and work out the actual saving in the overall project before making your decision. (See paulownia-timber-sales.com.au for Paulownia prices.) Also consider the long term stability of the timber and future maintenance costs.

If Paulownia comes out well then email me at [email protected] and I'lll give you a price including delivery.

Whitewood

Exactly what I was going to say. Big labour, small volume of timber, not much saving there.

Thank you for your replies.

Also, I have searched the net for suitable design of window framing, as well as local bookstores and library and come up virtually empty. I've driven around Armidale and most houses, even old ones, have aluminium windows or openable windows, difficult to see a big fixed window in a wooden frame. Plenty on aluminium frames!

Noty and vernonv both say thay have done/are doing window frames. Can you point to any window profile info?

The major costs will be with some large double-glazed but fixed windows - so no opening/hinges etc. (one room about 5 metres wide of windows, probably 1500 or 1800 high) and in another room - a double-ended entry/foyer, only 2.5 m wide but the walls are effectively all windows each end and all fixed (except a door in each). So cost is why I'd like to do them and I've read of a Victorian double-glazing firm cheaper than viridian, so would just order the double glazed and sealed units to install in the framing.

The best I have been able to find is the picture here Fixed Vertical Glazing - window glass installation details
This is quite a useful site, but was hoping to find a few more.
Also as I am building from scratch I want to see more than just the window - i.e. all of the profile of all the bits that go around, e.g. architraves inside and out, to get it waterproofed.

thank you

Hi Jaffakatie,
Have you seen the type of window you are aiming at? I lived in Europe for a few years, and noted that most of the double-glazing was made as two separate frames that locked together. This meant they could be cleaned on the inside surfaces if necessary, and no need to bother if they stayed nice. This gets around the condensation issue, so no need for desiccants (drying agents) or hi-tech Nitrogen-filled cavities like you see on the that Kevin McLeod show. You want to be pretty confident of the cleanliness of the glass before sealing them up for eternity. I'm really interested in how things go though, we certainly all should be doing this!