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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    West Coast, Australia
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    Default Dimensions for a standard double door frame

    Hi I'm doing some renovations and I need to make a door frame for my new double front door.

    I haven't bought the doors yet, and probably won't for a few months, but I need to make the frame so that I can finish the external cladding and then the roof guy can finish the roof.

    The hole I have is 2100 high by 1725 wide. I'm presuming that means I'll be buying 2 x 820mm doors? Does that sound right?

    So what are the required internal dimensions of the door frame to allow for the doors rebate or overlap in the middle? Are 820mm doors actually 820mm??

    I'm in the Perth hills and I'm building it out of old recycled Jarrah which I will probably oil and keep the natural look.

    Also what type of join is best here? I've made a few window frames before but this is my first door frame.

    Thanks for all the help,

    Nick

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Latrobe Valley
    Posts
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    Default

    Ok, from my experiance the best joints for a door frame are finger joints (like a large dovetail) and yes 820 doors are 820 wide. One thing to consider is are you getting doors which are rebated where they meet(so they overlap each other), or will a mushroom stop be the order of the day. Also allow 6mm clearance accross the frame for the doors. Mushroom stops are 15mm thick and double as a weather strip between the 2 doors.

    hope that helps

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    West Coast, Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thanks Jack,

    I have a few questions for you...

    What is a mushroom stop? is it like a central vertical door jamb?

    Also where can I get tips on the finger joints you mentioned?

    If the door is 820mm wide,how high will it be? how much vertical clearance do the doors need?

    Because I'm not sure what a mushroom stop is I'm leaning towards the rebated door idea. Do they come rebated? or I have to do that. What size is the rebate?

    So far I have ((820 + 820) + 6) - (rebate + rebate) = internal door frame width.

    Does that sound right?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Latrobe Valley
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Here is a typical profile of a Mushroom stop
    The finger joints that were done in the factory where i once worked we done on a very expensive machine but having said that have a look here, it should give you some ideas

    finger joint - Google Search

    The height of the doors will depend weather or not they open in or out, typically a standard door frame of 2100 x 880 will take a 2030 x 820 door (open in) or a 2040 x 820 door (open out) the sill you use will need to be either an open in or open out sill so the doors will have to suit the sill. I know this may seem confusing but its for weather proofing. Open out doors are better for weatherproofing but that means that fly doors will need to be on the inside of the jamb and open in. Most people opt for open out and skip the flydoors. As i said this is better for weather proofing and it shows off the doors a lot more as they are not covered by flywire.

    Your calculations are spot on . if you are buying new doors you can order them already rebated. The rebate is normally 15mm deep. Clearances top and bottopm should be the same about 2 to 3mm

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