Thread: A problem with the finish on my lowline Entertainment unit

If it's a fairly even raised edge, then it's just one of the boards wasn't quite as dry as the others...now it has dried out, and shrunk a little bit more. Not much you can do aside from letting the timber acclimate for a year or so before using it.

Its not just one of the boards its every edge on the top and the sides

Matt

Did you alternate the direction of the grain in each piece of timber when you assembled them. ? You may be experiencing cupping of the boards. If this is so, I don't think there is much you can do about it.
There may be some better explanations from other members.

Did you seal the underside as well as the top? This is important, otherwise atmospheric humidity can cause distortions.

I use to get that.A slight raised joint.,a thin line.
I was told it was glue creep
I changed glue and kept it away from the outer edge and all is fine.
I must say I dont know alot about woodwork,but I dont make the same mistake twice either.If I was you I would glue 2 pieced of tassie oak together and finish it the same as before.Then do the same again but use different glue and keep away from edge to be stained.Add finish as before.Leave around for a couple of years to see results
I have done this several times.
PS Mark them so you know what you did

Sounds like a timber movement problem.
Is it possible you used quarter-sawn and back-sawn boards mixed up? That could explain the different movement in the boards, if thats the case it will be different depending on the season. Maybe in summer flush if you build it in summertime or flush in winter if you build it then. Are the glue lines still tight?
I have never experienced "glue creep" but I find that if you don't glue right to the edges of a joint, that often shows as a sink in in the finish you put on.

What is the best glue to use for laminating boards, for tops etc

matt

A good cross linking PVA should stop most glue line creep, as others said could be moisture and movement problems.
There's not many glues (commonly available)that dont creep they are the epoxy based type.

have had this prblem to.all i use now is epoxy no more problem

I use epoxy and polyurethane glue most of the time. Only disadvantage is that it creates visible glue lines (depending on color of timber). Both strong and no creep.

UF (urea formaldehyde) does not leave visible glue lines and doesn't creep, it is a bit hard to get sometimes. And safety precautions are important (same as with epoxy). It is quiet a bit cheaper then epoxy or PU glue.

As far as I am aware creep only occurs when timber joints are under stress. For what you explain there shouldn't be stress on the glue join. Unless timber was forced together in glue-up or again uneven timber movement.

Epoxy is quite cheap as long as you buy the right stuff.

20-40ml of araldite will cost you about $10-15 from Supa Cheap or Bunnies; while $14 will get you 150 ml of Bote-Cote marine epoxy, spend $35 and you'll get 750ml. That's well over ten times as much epoxy for your money.

As it has a shelf life measured in decades, there's no real downside to buying a useful amount.