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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huon pine fan View Post
    Thanks again Rob.
    TMPTB - the more pics the better!

    Here's the extended pencil and the Huon Pine Tapered gauge I use for drawer fitting HPF.

    The pencil gets down into the tight space and marks a line for the drawer guide position. Its just a pencil splice joined onto a red cedar stick.


    And the tapered gauge for measuring the distance between the drawer back and the back of the cabinet. I then make up stops that are roughly 1mm thicker than the gap and glue them in place so the drawer side hits them. When the glue is dry I shave the stops back with a shoulder plane until the drawer front sits just where I want it.
    That is usually the first part of the drawer front that becomes flush on each side of the drawer to the carcase face. Which shows up the remaining parts of the front that are sticking out and need to be planed back to give a perfectly true face to carcase fit.
    After that the cut outs for the cock beading were done on the table saw. And the bead glued in.
    The bead was made with a 1/8th" side bead plane / Moulding plane . A few swipes with the plane then saw the bead off the board on table saw. Plane the edge and do the next one. Repeat that 3 more times to give enough beading for the two drawers.


    Rob

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  3. #17
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    Jun 2023
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    Tasmania
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    Nice work Rob

    I'll second drawer slips and melamine.

    Drawer slips increases the bearing surface or more aptly named 'wear' surface.
    I like thin drawer sides that if left on their own soon wear a rut in the runners.

    In 1987 I made our kitchen from Celery Pine and gum.
    All drawers had melamine on the sides and runners and there's not any sign of wear. The cutlery drawer is heavy but can be pushed in with a finger.
    Same in wife's sewing department and the bathroom.
    It's not unsightly if care is taken and really does perform.

  4. #18
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    Aug 2020
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    Sunshine Coast
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    I build mostly traditional/reproduction furniture and slides of any kind, metal or wood, were never used... You say the drawers are too narrow to use undermount slides... So why not just allow the drawer to run on a top and bottom track? It can't come out full depth but when does a side table drawer need to come out that much? Will make you life a lot easier and virtually never needs fixing using the KISS method. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor View Post
    So why not just allow the drawer to run on a top and bottom track? It can't come out full depth but when does a side table drawer need to come out that much? Will make you life a lot easier and virtually never needs fixing using the KISS method. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Have you got an example of what you mean by the 'kiss' method?.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71 View Post
    Have you got an example of what you mean by the 'kiss' method?.


    https://www.google.com/search?client...&q=Kiss+method

  7. #21
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    Well blow me down yet another acronym

  8. #22
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    I mentioned my thin drawer sides in a post above and I did use drawer slips as well but they were not included in the picture due to me editing them out.
    Here they are.

    Thin sides are nice but a slip does help out with the construction. Its not just the wider bearing for wear on the runner. It gives a better way of holding a bottom in. If I wasn't using slips Id either be making thicker sides for the slot for the bottom.
    Or the rebate for the bottom in the sides if I was making a pre 1800 style drawer where the drawer bottom grain runs from front to back as was done back then.

    The back has yellow X on left picture . Red is slip in right picture and side is yellow
    IMG_4314a.jpg IMG_4315a.jpg

    Rob

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71 View Post
    Have you got an example of what you mean by the 'kiss' method?.
    KISS: Keep it simple stupid. (no I'm not implying anything, it's just a common statement)

    The attached pics are what I was thinking. When the drawer is under a few inches this works well. They just run on the top and bottom rails, and easy to fit. There isn't any expectation the drawers will hold much weight and there's not drawer slides to fit and contend with, just a bit of wax every couple years to keep them moving nicely. Like I was saying, they can't be pulled out like a full extension drawer slide but a side table isn't going to hold much, other than a few remotes and stuff... I also like this style/method on solid wood furniture. Every time I see metal slides, to me, they just look out of place and detract from the piece. Kinda gives a nice piece an Amart look. YMMV

    PS Ignore the dovetails on the first pic. To this day I have no idea what I was thinking when I laid them out. Or maybe it was the 4 beers that made me not think...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #24
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    So if I wanted a equal gap say 2mm all around the front of the flush drawer, I could add a 2mm wooden slip to the left and right of where the drawer pulls out?.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71 View Post
    So if I wanted a equal gap say 2mm all around the front of the flush drawer, I could add a 2mm wooden slip to the left and right of where the drawer pulls out?.
    As long as you leave enough room for movement - why not. Could shim up the bottom also to balance the gaps. On the drawers I showed there's about 2mm total gap so there's no balancing needed. The eye'll never pick that.

  12. #26
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    Or as my brother in England always reminds me when I'm being to much of a perfectionist, "A man galloping horse wouldn't see it"

  13. #27
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    But the horse might. They usually see things before the rider...

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71 View Post
    Or as my brother in England always reminds me when I'm being to much of a perfectionist, "A man galloping horse wouldn't see it"
    Quote Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor
    But the horse might. They usually see things before the rider...
    And a blind person can ride a horse.

    A great uncle of mine, he died in 1980, used to take his horse and dray rather than his ute to the RSL on Friday nights. One day he got booked on two charges:
    • Not stopping for police, and
    • Being drunk while driving a vehicle, a clydesdale and dray.

    He duly appeared in court, admitted most of the Police evidence, with one exception. The Police evidence included that he was found unconscious in the dray. He said he was not driving the vehicle; Dobby, his horse, was merely taking him home. The magistrate was flummoxed and adjourned the court; it was never reconvened.

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