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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,818

    Default How to do these drawers?

    I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.





    Straightforward enough build, with the case in mitred through dovetails the only tricky bit. I've done a few of these now, so know what lies in store.


    There appear to be two drawers. The question is, how does one build drawers without handles?


    I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky. I build traditional dovetailed drawers.


    One idea I had was to incorporate the lower bevelled case edge/rail into the drawers, and use this as a handle. However, I foresee the difficulty in getting everything to line up perfectly. I like the concept, but not sure about the practicality.


    Any other ideas for handless or, if nothing else, complementary handles?


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Glen Forrest, Western Australia
    Age
    62
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    531

    Default

    Could you not put a slot underneath to put a finger in and pull the drawer forward

    Rick

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,818

    Default

    Rick, that is a consideration. The only issue is that it changes the flow of straight lines. But it is a good idea.

    Regards From Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    749

    Default

    Hi Derek,

    I suspect Rick means a slot or finger groove in the drawer bottoms. These would not be seen. Reach underneath to pull open the drawer.

    Two other options:
    1. Make false drawer fronts that pivot about 1/3 of the way along. Press on the edge to have the opposite edge pop out to form a handle.

    2. Embed a neodymium magnet under the veneer, and make a removable handle with matching magnet

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Glen Forrest, Western Australia
    Age
    62
    Posts
    531

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RossM View Post
    Hi Derek,

    I suspect Rick means a slot or finger groove in the drawer bottoms. These would not be seen. Reach underneath to pull open the drawer.
    Exactly, you just said it better )

    Rick

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    Hi Derek,

    Could you use the hidden "ush and open/push and close" type of device?

    Regards,

    Rob

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
    Posts
    1,211

    Default

    Hi Derek,

    The angled sectional/veneer drawer front reminded me of this piece I saw last year by Chris Salomon, which if you intend to retain that element may offer an option. The idea sets part of the drawer front back, and adds a finger pull on the protruding edge.

    To my mind, if you did this vertically at centre of each drawer on an existing join line, it would "disappear" when viewed front on.

    Kind regards,
    Lance

    Annotation 2019-10-21 073641.jpg

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4

    Default

    As Rob suggested, push to open drawer runners. I built a four drawer vanity recently and used these, they work well.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    394

    Default

    Gday Derek. Use as part of the drawer the mitred side trims as draw pulls? Or the bottom horizontal trim cut in halves?

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Newcastle
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    41
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    Default

    Sorry Derek, I missed the bit about not wanting to use push to open runners, but that's how the one pictured would be done.

    If you had to use a handle, maybe the top lip pull type? But might look strange with the beveled edges.

    My vote goes to the finger slot underneath.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,556

    Default

    A finger hole through the base of the cabinet at mid span of each draw. Holes needs to be just large enough to allow finger action to move the drawer forward enough to then use the top edge of the drawer fronts as a handle. Keep the holes towards the front for easy reach. The holes will also double as a vent to prevent "puffing" as the drawers are pushed closed.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    77
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    Mount a short stiff compression spring between the back of the drawer and the cabinet back. It would act as a soft stop when closing the drawer but when compressed and then released quickly the drawer would pop open enough for you to access the front of the drawer and pull it out.

    For this to work you need to have very free running drawers but I'm sure that that is within your capabilities.

    Of course you will need to do some experiments to determine the correct spring characteristics.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,026

    Default

    Although it's unlikely, due to this being a hall table, is it possible that the drawers are double sided? Due to the legs appearing to be attached using splayed metal fixtures it would seem unlikely that anything too elaborate has been used for the drawer opening mechanism. That being said, the veneered fronts on the drawers would seem to indicate some quality to the piece.

    I think I'd just be telling her that she has to have some kind of drawer pull.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
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    2,580

    Default

    Hi,
    What about leaving most of the bottom open so a hand can be placed under the draw to open it, like a lot of Welsh dressers.
    Good luck
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
    Posts
    936

    Default

    Another way would be to have a "seesaw" jigger behind the drawers so that when you push 1 drawer in a bit the other is pushed open as in diagram below.

    Draw opening diagram.JPG


    Advantages are that there is no reliance on springs or plastic bits and the front is kept clean. The disadvantage is that it will take up some space and therefore make the drawers smaller. Of course you may be able fit something similar under the drawers depending on construction of the side rails that they run on. It will also be up to the user to make sure the drawers are in line when closed unless you can build in some kind of registering feature.

    Looking forward to seeing your version finished.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

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