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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky.
    Have you considered making a push-it mechanism from brass, with the "springs" being made from wood? There are many examples of 17th & 18th century cabinets with secret compartments that are opened using various methods; from hidden buttons to elaborate key mechanisms.

    It's a pity Wouldwood is no longer an active member; I believe he would have been able to rattle off dozens of examples.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.

    Hi Derek
    This is what I see in that piece
    1. The drawer fronts are double booked matched veneer -- will you be replicating that detail?
    2. The drawers are cock-beaded (look at the thin outline around each drawer) -- again is this a detail you will be replicating?
    3. The legs are screwed into the carcass base -- I presume you will modify that detail somewhat, perhaps by attaching the legs to the carcass sides.
    4. The carcass is made from veneered board that is lipped on all sides with a contrasting pale wood (perhaps beech). There is no "need" to use secret mitered dovetails unless you really want to. If you look closely at the picture, I'm pretty sure that the grain of the lipping runs from to front to back.
    5. I agree that the drawers are probably on runners and are push to open -- a detail you are not interested in replicating as you are planning on making traditional drawers.
    6. Most of the visual impact comes from photographing the piece against a pale background.


    How would I build the piece?
    Well ...
    Firstly I'd replicate the basic design. I know you have a preference for solid wood construction, but in this case, perhaps veneered board is the way to go for the carcass construction.
    Secondly, I'd build it using solid Rock maple edgings, teamed with Tassie Oak veneer. I know you stated solid Jarrah, but i think Jarrah is too dark for a piece like that where the fact that it is staged against a light coloured wall adds to its oomph.
    Thirdly, use book-matched sawn veneers in Tassie oak for the drawer fronts. I'd build the drawer carcasses from Tassie oak as well.
    Fourth, keep the cock beading (using Rock Maple) around the drawers.
    Fifth, the legs are where most of the solid wood material is required. These should be light coloured but could be Tassie Oak or Rock Maple or even Beech.

    The drawer pulls could be turned knobs placed in the center of each drawer.


    But before starting, drill down into the niece's consciousness to really determine why she is attracted to the piece, and that she is not saying "in Jarrah" to appease Uncle Derek.
    (I suspect that the answer will have something to do with the light colours the piece is made from.)





    BTW
    I think your niece has good taste.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #18
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    Wow ian, that's a comprehensive bunch of answer's to a lot of questions that weren't even asked! And a lot of supplementary questions for Derek as well! Got to keep him on his toes.

  5. #19
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    Just leave the back of the cabinet open. Then you can press the drawer out by slipping your fingers down behind the cabinet and pushing on the back of the drawer enough to get your fingers in the front opening. It's how I do it for my own hall table in my house, even though I don't use them or have anything in the drawers, but when I do, that's how I will open them!

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuffy View Post
    It's how I do it for my own hall table in my house, even though I don't use them or have anything in the drawers!
    Is the method of opening the drawers a possible deterrent to their use? ..... joking!
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    Wow ian, that's ... a lot of supplementary questions for Derek as well! Got to keep him on his toes.
    someone has to


    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #22
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    All these creative solutions but have you asked your niece what she would prefer? After all is said and done she is the one who has to live with it.

    I would go with off the shelve push to release runners.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by samo View Post
    All these creative solutions but have you asked your niece what she would prefer?
    This has been bought to the forums now ..... it is bigger than the niece.
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  10. #24
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    Reminds me of a few clever mechanisms in the 18th century David Roentgen cabinets... or this tool of the devil! YouTube

  11. #25
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    Derek,

    This page shows the table (“blonde mellow oak”) along with a shot of a partly-open drawer. Also gives dimensions.

    Chevron Oak Storage Console Table

    No further info on the opening mechanism I’m afraid.

    Brian

  12. #26
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    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    Here’s one approach to a similar drawer design

    Bergen Oak: Console Table in American White Oak

  13. #27
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Thanks for all the replies. They really helped consolidate my thoughts. I shall comment further on these in a while.


    I found the original piece on the web: Chevron Oak Storage Console Table


    It is sold as a flat pack, and poorly constructed. Although the advert states that it is solid oak, it looks veneered ply/mdf to my eyes (the grain on the drawer edges is more obviously veneer, not just the planted fronts, but the upper edge).


    If the drawers need a push-it mechanism, to propel it out a few inches, the drawers will need to have reduced friction, and this means they need to be on metal runners. Like kitchen drawers. I have emailed my niece to explain this and that this is a low quality option.


    I really liked Charlie's idea of semi circular drawers (mentioned on WoodCentral). I would like the challenge of building them (I came close to building drawers like this in the Harlequin Table). However, I think they are impractical. Fun, but impractical. I have suggested to my niece that the hall table uses more traditional drawers with unobtrusive handles.


    The overall design is clean and quite nice. It could benefit from more refined details. That will be my contribution. I need to retain the look of the legs, but with a different undercarriage. The current design likely utilises metal connectors, something like these ...





    They are likely quite strong, but a more refined construction would use a sliding dovetail with a staked mortice-and-tenon. This should add a lot more meat under the legs and still retain the slim profile ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #28
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    Canberra
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    What about a crafty mechanism like this? It would also hold the drawer in place at the right depth.

    It could be put onto the bottom of the draw, or embedded into the side?

    Seems quite do-able. A router and template, even a little dremel to make the "track" and a spring/s of a decent size. I'd imagine one could adjust the ejection power by loading up the spring a bit, or getting one more/less powerful.

    -- Fit the drawer depth by adjust the length of the blue rod... wind in and out (a little wooden rod!)
    -- Put a small cover over it and hide it away? Covered with a trendy little brass plate like a steam punk

    Exciting and entirely approachable





    edit 1 - below is the file of the various objects.... and here is the program to open these STP files.... FREE Step file Viewer - STP Viewer 2.3


    Attached Files Attached Files

  15. #29
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    Hi Derek

    There are two very similar but subtly different tables here

    The first one you posted is this one





    The other is this one




    The primary differences I see are:
    1. The placement of the legs. The legs on the second example are placed further from the table edges and are contained within the plan shape of the top.
    2. The drawers on the first example appear to incorporate cock beading, The second example doesn't have this detail.
    3. The first example seems to be veneered board with solid wood edging on all four edges. The second example doesn't have this detail.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  16. #30
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    Hi Derek

    here's a better comparison of the two tables
    Attached Images Attached Images
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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