Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 42 of 42
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    The primary differences I see are:
    1. The placement of the legs. The legs on the second example are placed further from the table edges and are contained within the plan shape of the top.
    2. The drawers on the first example appear to incorporate cock beading, The second example doesn't have this detail.
    3. The first example seems to be veneered board with solid wood edging on all four edges. The second example doesn't have this detail.
    Hi Ian

    I did not see those differences until you pointed them out. The interesting part is the cock beading on the first example (which is the one sent to me by my niece). She specifically requested that the drawers look like a single piece (i.e. flush and no centre divider), which rules out cock beading.

    Which leg placement is better, top or bottom (above)? I think that I prefer the top - less like something "perched" on top of legs.

    There have been a number of ingenious ideas presented here - which I hoped for, and I'm sure we have all admired. My knee-jerk reaction to using mechanical fittings is to back away. For example, I am sure that metal under drawer slides are well made, will last forever, and run smoothly. But I am such a traditionalist at heart. I have modern taste in design, but am still strongly connected to the 18 C for construction methods. I just prefer wood-on-wood for drawers.

    I do enjoy something challenging, and am so tempted to build (half) circular drawers that pivot. These would not need handles. Part of me rebels and chides myself that these might not become real drawers. Any thoughts about these to tip me one way or the other?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Hi Ian

    I did not see those differences until you pointed them out. The interesting part is the cock beading on the first example (which is the one sent to me by my niece). She specifically requested that the drawers look like a single piece (i.e. flush and no centre divider), which rules out cock beading.

    Which leg placement is better, top or bottom (above)? I think that I prefer the top - less like something "perched" on top of legs.

    There have been a number of ingenious ideas presented here - which I hoped for, and I'm sure we have all admired. My knee-jerk reaction to using mechanical fittings is to back away. For example, I am sure that metal under drawer slides are well made, will last forever, and run smoothly. But I am such a traditionalist at heart. I have modern taste in design, but am still strongly connected to the 18 C for construction methods. I just prefer wood-on-wood for drawers.

    I do enjoy something challenging, and am so tempted to build (half) circular drawers that pivot. These would not need handles. Part of me rebels and chides myself that these might not become real drawers. Any thoughts about these to tip me one way or the other?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Hi Derek

    I understand. However, if you do veneer the drawer fronts, you will want something like cock-beading to protect the veneer edges. The alternative will be to dispense with the veneer drawer fronts. Remember the cock-beading can be as thin as 1/16th inch. Or perhaps even thinner.

    I too prefer the first table -- the one with the legs extending outside the table top. Though there is a risk that the legs will be kicked.


    I agree that half circular drawers are unlikely to be used. Sorry as I know you would have been up to the challenge. (your harlequin table would have been a better choice for something little used.)
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
    Posts
    935

    Default

    Derek, your mention of half round pivoting drawers led me to think of pivoting drawer fronts. If the front of the drawer pivots by about 20 degrees 1 side can be pushed in to make the other side pop out enough to be pulled. Then it occurred to me that if the pivot was vertical it would work better.

    Drawer opening V2.JPG

    Working out how to hinge the front and also how to make it stay vertical when not in use may take some thought - but I'd hazard a guess that you could make it work. Having it up the other way (push top/pull bottom) may be even better because the front is then more likely to sit vertical under its own weight.
    Note that you would need a small amount of clearance for the front to pivot without interfering with the table top or bottom. The "push top" variant would suit better because of this - you would already have a small clearance at the top and the drawer front could be given a slight chamfer on the back where it will not be seen..
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Have an ornament that sits on top of the side table that has an embedded magnet. Something ferrus behind the surface of the drawer front for the magnet to latch onto, the drawer opens, do your biz, push the drawer closed and slide off the magnet. Just an idea. I'd use the blum or grass push to opens personally. Can still dovetail the drawer and they are undermount drawer slides you can't even see them once installed.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    The interesting part is the cock beading on the first example (which is the one sent to me by my niece). She [the niece] specifically requested that the drawers look like a single piece (i.e. flush and no centre divider), which rules out cock beading.
    Hi Derek

    Building the piece with a pair of flush drawers -- never mind the absence of a centre divider -- will substantially change the look of the piece.

    The image sent by the niece has recessed drawers which probably open via a push-it type mechanism. Chamfering the edges of the carcass has allowed the drawers to be recessed by somewhere between 15 and 20 mm. Flush mounted drawers will, IMO, be more than a subtle change to the look of the piece.
    Personally, I'd stick with recessed drawers and quiz the niece as to her objection to cock beading. Is it because she anticipates that it will look "clunky" rather than subtle?

    Then there is the double booked matched veneer. I strongly suspect that the second example -- the one linked to by you -- uses veneer edging as an equivalent to cock beading. (IMO, veneer edging is the same as cock beading.)
    I'm not convinced that even if you use sawn veneers that the cock-beading can be dispensed with. The veneer edges would be just too fragile.

    By-the-bye, the drawer fronts in the second example are planted, and the same construction detail is almost certainly repeated in the first.




    Food for thought?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Oh
    and I should have added ...

    Get Rob to send you a couple of sticks of this Simulated Natural Material Rods - Lee Valley Tools one 50 x 150 will be more than enough to turn a pair of discrete pulls -- you just need to decide on the colour
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by labr@ View Post
    Derek, your mention of half round pivoting drawers led me to think of pivoting drawer fronts. If the front of the drawer pivots by about 20 degrees 1 side can be pushed in to make the other side pop out enough to be pulled. Then it occurred to me that if the pivot was vertical it would work better.

    Drawer opening V2.JPG

    Working out how to hinge the front and also how to make it stay vertical when not in use may take some thought - but I'd hazard a guess that you could make it work. Having it up the other way (push top/pull bottom) may be even better because the front is then more likely to sit vertical under its own weight.
    Note that you would need a small amount of clearance for the front to pivot without interfering with the table top or bottom. The "push top" variant would suit better because of this - you would already have a small clearance at the top and the drawer front could be given a slight chamfer on the back where it will not be seen..
    A magnet would keep it vertical.
    CHRIS

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Hi Derek

    Building the piece with a pair of flush drawers -- never mind the absence of a centre divider -- will substantially change the look of the piece.

    The image sent by the niece has recessed drawers which probably open via a push-it type mechanism. Chamfering the edges of the carcass has allowed the drawers to be recessed by somewhere between 15 and 20 mm. Flush mounted drawers will, IMO, be more than a subtle change to the look of the piece.
    Personally, I'd stick with recessed drawers and quiz the niece as to her objection to cock beading. Is it because she anticipates that it will look "clunky" rather than subtle?

    Then there is the double booked matched veneer. I strongly suspect that the second example -- the one linked to by you -- uses veneer edging as an equivalent to cock beading. (IMO, veneer edging is the same as cock beading.)
    I'm not convinced that even if you use sawn veneers that the cock-beading can be dispensed with. The veneer edges would be just too fragile.

    By-the-bye, the drawer fronts in the second example are planted, and the same construction detail is almost certainly repeated in the first.




    Food for thought?
    Ian, it is possible to create flushed drawers with a centre divider by either planting on a front, or by rebating the sides (half the thickness of the divider) prior to dovetailing.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Derek
    I know, but I was referring to the overall look of the proposed piece.
    I know it is only my opinion, but I still consider that flush drawers will be more than a subtle change to the look of the proposed piece for the niece.

    For me the "important" consideration is around the use, or not, of double booked matched diagonal veneer on the drawer fronts. This particular detail caught me eye and drew me to the piece.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Hi Ian

    I wonder if we are talking at crossed purposes? When I say "flush" I do not mean 'in line with the front of the case', but rather 'recessed behind the chamfers, as in the photo, but coplanar, allowing the grain to run across the front, with just a separation of a mm or two between the drawer fronts'.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Hi Derek
    We are at cross purposes.
    By flush I was referring to drawers in line with the front edge of the carcass.
    By recessed I was referring to drawers set back (15 to 20mm) from the front of the carcass.


    but enough pedantry.
    Will the niece's piece incorporate double booked matched veneer? Or have you a well figured board hidden away for just such a project?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Ian, today I purchased some promising boards from Derek Doak - The Timber Bloke. It is all rough sawn, so I have not had a good chance to examine it in great detail. The Jarrah is fiddleback and moderately figured. The top and sides will be book matched and joined as a waterfall. The underside, which will not be seen, is likely to come out of old roofing timbers I have stacked away. Because the case that is seen is likely to be busy-ish, the piece I have for the drawer is quieter, with grain emphasising the horizontal.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Similar Threads

  1. Box with drawers
    By Ruddy in forum BOX MAKING
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 8th March 2017, 09:46 PM
  2. Drawers for 4wd
    By pmccar06 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 25th July 2010, 12:45 PM
  3. Log drawers
    By mr.incredible in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 24th March 2010, 10:06 AM
  4. Mdf Drawers
    By Squirrel in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 2nd February 2007, 12:05 PM
  5. some drawers WIP
    By mic-d in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 27th October 2006, 02:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •