Thread: Making an English Comb-back Windsor Chair

I understand what you're saying about having freedom with one-offs, but about twenty two years ago, I undertook a set of six Windsors (and a table) for a London couple's weekend cottage in Somerset. At the time I was concerned about the seat shapes; not matching per se, but looking at least as if they were made by the one, competent lifelong chairmaker. Luckily, my technique for feeling the shape of one seat transferred across all six.

I'm wondering about the blade angle on the travisher and the angle of the bevel. it seems to me that they would both have to be within a narrow range to cope with the work done against the grain.

I'm enjoying this thread. One day I hope to have a go at something similar. At the moment it's all a bit daunting.

How do you get the angles on the mortices correctly aligned and then cut?

I can see myself making a series of profiles for my bases similar to those lutanists use to carve the inside and ouside profiles for instruments. That way, at least for my first attempts I'd have a greater chance at consistency.

Originally Posted by artme

I'm wondering about the blade angle on the travisher and the angle of the bevel. it seems to me that they would both have to be within a narrow range to cope with the work done against the grain.

The angle is quite low (don't ask me for a figure), but the tool is quite forgiving. The sole is curved in two planes, so the control comes quite easily from rocking the tool forwards or backwards as it's thrust forwards. Thus thick and fine shavings can be achieved with the same blade setting. It's one of those rare improbable old tools that perform faultlessly.

Originally Posted by Horaldic

How do you get the angles on the mortices correctly aligned and then cut?

You require a good imagination: There's always something in the way, like a leg, a stretcher, an arm bow or crest rail, so you first place the tip of the drill bit on the spot to be drilled and then from behind the leg/stretcher/bow etc., you imagine the axis of the drill bit, aim it 'down the hole' and bore away.

It's not as difficult as it might first appear and anyway, thin springy sticks are quite forgiving of a little misalignment!

So you do it freehand! Wow, I know if I tried that the legs would be at all different angles like some sort of dead insect.

WW, did you ream the holes to match the taper on the leg tenons?

Cheers
Michael

Great work. Great thread.

Originally Posted by mic-d

WW, did you ream the holes to match the taper on the leg tenons?

Cheers
Michael

The spigots/tennons are parallel, not tapered which is why I'm wedging the legs. At this date, most legs had through tennons. Blind-wedged legs appeared in the first quarter of the 19th century and the tapered tennon and socket around the middle of the 19th century.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

The spigots/tennons are parallel, not tapered which is why I'm wedging the legs. At this date, most legs had through tennons. Blind-wedged legs appeared in the first quarter of the 19th century and the tapered tennon and socket around the middle of the 19th century.

I misread an earlier post. You were referring to the taper on the back and arm sticks
Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by Woodwould

This bloke is demonstrating the use of a travisher. Note: He mentions that he's been at it for over an hour, but not many chair makers would use a travisher for the entire seat-hollowing procedure. Most would begin with an adze and possibly move on to a scorp before finishing it off with a travisher.

Cool! So if we can't find a metal one at the market we could nearly make one?

Would you be able to put up a pic of your travisher next time you are doing the photo thing, wouldwood?

You're absolutely right TL

I saw mic_d's modified 51 several months ago and actually bought myself a 51 from the markets for that purpose. I just need to get off my butt and do it.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

I understand what you're saying about having freedom with one-offs, but about twenty two years ago, I undertook a set of six Windsors (and a table) for a London couple's weekend cottage in Somerset. At the time I was concerned about the seat shapes; not matching per se, but looking at least as if they were made by the one, competent lifelong chairmaker. Luckily, my technique for feeling the shape of one seat transferred across all six.

What style of table to go with the set?

Originally Posted by Blue-deviled

What style of table to go with the set?

It was an Oak wake table.