Thread: A George I Walnut Side Table

Originally Posted by Peter36

Do you use our sponsors wax or another brand?

I make my own waxes and I also modify commercially available waxes (though, not our sponsor's I must admit).

When my current stocks of commercial waxes are exhausted, I will certainly explore our sponsor's. If his waxes are as good as his shellac, they should work very well indeed.

Very nice Woodwould. I always enjoy your WIP's as they are entertaining and a great opportunity to learn.

Regards,

Denim.

This is a nice piece, it just seems to grab me.

Woodwould, that is a pleasure to look at, lovely work - have a greenie

Awesome work WW!

Impeccable work, as always.

A question if I may, what is the brew you concoct to age new brass? I have some screws to age myself so that they match with already existing fittings.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

The finished side table.

Woodwould
I really like your table. Thank you for sharing its construction

you may have mentioned it, and I missed your explanation, but can you please expand on

1) is the herring bone verneer, on the top and drawer fronts, applied as one strip or two separate strips?

2) the construction and shaping of the edge molding. I think I followed why it is end grain blocks and attached at 45°, but why doesn't it go the full thickness of the top ? and how did you shape the molding?

3) I'm sure a 3rd question will come to me later

Originally Posted by Waldo

Impeccable work, as always.

A question if I may, what is the brew you concoct to age new brass? I have some screws to age myself so that they match with already existing fittings.

Thank you.

I'm sure I posted the recipe for my 'Old Ambience No. 5' Antique Finish before, but here it is again:

Take one firkin of Don't Try This At Home and heat gently in a large copper pan. Slowly stir in one gill of Rub This On The Neighbour's Cat and bring to a rolling boil. The instant the mixture becomes nacreous, strain off the liquid into a clean carboy and immediately add a glass and a half of This Will Take Care Of The Mother-In-Law, a pennyweight of Well Sodden Impropriety and the merest pinch of Promise You Won't Tell Mum And Dad. Swirl the carboy anti-clockwise until cool and then drop in a fresh lump of Leave Well Alone. Cork the carboy tightly. Over the period of a few days, the Old Ambience No. 5 will become quite clear.

Have patience; it will clear.

Stand the furniture to be treated in a sealed room. Place the un-corked carboy in the centre of the room and leave the furniture to absorb Old Ambience No. 5 for a month of Sundays or until the concoction has evaporated. Stand back in wonderment and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Clear as mud.

So WW do you use an amonia fume then? I have had fair sucess on several projects depending on the timber used.

Originally Posted by ian

Woodwould
I really like your table. Thank you for sharing its construction

you may have mentioned it, and I missed your explanation, but can you please expand on

1) is the herring bone verneer, on the top and drawer fronts, applied as one strip or two separate strips?

2) the construction and shaping of the edge molding. I think I followed why it is end grain blocks and attached at 45°, but why doesn't it go the full thickness of the top ? and how did you shape the molding?

3) I'm sure a 3rd question will come to me later

Thank you.

1. The feather banding is made up from diagonal blocks of Walnut which are glued together, side-by-side in a continuous strip. When dry, the strip can be cut into banding to match the thickness of the parent veneer.

2. I'm simply following the methods and practices of the period, but the reason is because the moulding blocks will move, their size is kept to a minimum to reduce the amount of expansion and contraction. I shaped the moulding with a scratchstock.

Originally Posted by Claw Hama

So WW do you use an amonia fume then? I have had fair sucess on several projects depending on the timber used.

Ammonia works well on timbers rich in tannin. However, it results in a fairly even colour and is a really noxious and dangerous process, so I don't use it. It was a very popular finish on Oak early last century.

Thank you