Thread: Glass Top Coffee Table - WIP

Looks nice! I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but did you leave a slight gap around the glass for shrinkage/expansion on the timber frame? I know it shouldn't be too bad considering the width of the pieces, but it pay to be careful in the dramatic Australian weather. Wouldn't want your joints to crack, or the glass for that matter.

Originally Posted by Tim Kingsford

Looks nice! I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but did you leave a slight gap around the glass for shrinkage/expansion on the timber frame? I know it shouldn't be too bad considering the width of the pieces, but it pay to be careful in the dramatic Australian weather. Wouldn't want your joints to crack, or the glass for that matter.

i didn't think of it.. let's hope that the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between the wood and the glass is not that different. The top of my previous table was so gappy that food got caught in the gaps. I wanted to avoid that so I made the clearance as low as possible

Originally Posted by Tim Kingsford

Looks nice! I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but did you leave a slight gap around the glass for shrinkage/expansion on the timber frame? I know it shouldn't be too bad considering the width of the pieces, but it pay to be careful in the dramatic Australian weather. Wouldn't want your joints to crack, or the glass for that matter.

Hi Tim

I just looked it up. The coefficient of thermal expansion in micro metres per meter of length per degree is 5.9 for glass and 4.9 for oak along the grain. This means that a 20 degree increase in temperature will close the current gap between the glass and the timber by 10-16 microns... (The glass is about 0.5 x 0.8 m). A decrease in temperature will open the gap.

The coefficient is 3.7 for fir, so if I had used pine a 20 degree temperature increase would close the gap by 20-32 microns.

The same coefficient for steel is about 15. So if I had used a steel top a change in temperature of that magnitude would close the gap by 100 - 160 microns or 200-320 microns if the table had been made frm pine.

I think I should be OK....

Hey mate

That table looks fantastic.

I made a glass display table about a year ago - my first woodwork project - turned out horrible

Going to make version 2 when I get some more time and practice.

I am going to also use a better timber rather then Bunnings Pine

Great work.

Hopefully mine can turn out half as good as yours.

Originally Posted by Matt_M

Hey mate

That table looks fantastic.

I made a glass display table about a year ago - my first woodwork project - turned out horrible

Going to make version 2 when I get some more time and practice.

I am going to also use a better timber rather then Bunnings Pine

Great work.

Hopefully mine can turn out half as good as yours.

Hi Matt,

Thank you for the compliment. The Tassie Oak that I used for the table comes from Bunnings! I used pine from Bunnings for a few other pieces. (The wall unit in the background of the last picture of the table and chair is one). Pine can be a really nice timber to work with but it tends to warp easily. Take your time when choosing the pine cuts, make sure that they are nice and straight and are not cupped. This is still important even when you used the hardwood. The design of the piece makes a difference. For example I like making L beams by gluing 19x42 mm profiles at right angles. I use these as rails and stretchers, and this keeps everything light an strong and straight. The other important thing is to take your time. The accuracy and precision of your cuts will make the difference between a good outcome and a mediocre one. For example, the back stretchers being 1 mm shorther than the front stretchers may no seem like a big deal, but will leave unsightly gaps on the front joints.

Enjoy the process and post some pictures...

Jorge

Originally Posted by GarciaJ

..... I used pine from Bunnings for a few other pieces. (The wall unit in the background of the last picture of the table and chair is one). Pine can be a really nice timber to work with but it tends to warp easily. Take your time when choosing the pine cuts, make sure that they are nice and straight and are not cupped.......

I am not able to comment generally on timber from Bunnings as I had mixed results. There has been some pine that I have had trouble with that seemed to be still drying and one extream example after cutting one thinner piece from a plank it bent some much that it could pass as a banana. It did feel wet after cutting but I was still learning about moisture in wood.

Originally Posted by Christos

I am not able to comment generally on timber from Bunnings as I had mixed results. There has been some pine that I have had trouble with that seemed to be still drying and one extream example after cutting one thinner piece from a plank it bent some much that it could pass as a banana. It did feel wet after cutting but I was still learning about moisture in wood.

Christos, I think you are right. What you have described has been my experience too. I have had a few bananas of my own. ) There is a place I use in Canberra for Victorian Ash (Tassie Oak) that's better than Bunnings. There are a couple of specialty timber stores too, but these are very expensive for the novice. However, overcoming the difficulties of working with these cheaper materials can be challenging and fun!

Regards

Jorge

Hey Matt, Christos...

Just to show off, I've started another wall unit using Bunnings pine.

I work on these projects on everyother weekend or so (so it will be a while before I am finished). I'll post here when the work has progressed a bit more. So far I have glued up some panels from narrow stock, cut most pieces to length. Still need to rip the panels to width and drill/chisel out some mortices.

I'll take some pictures before I start glueing up.

Jorge

As most of us are hobbyist, no rush we will still be in when you get back.

The picture is nice.really super.I'm curious to buy the things.