Thread: Glue for laminated curves?

Titebond Original (red label) will give you a much harder glue line than the pre-catalysed Titebond 2 and Titebond 3 adhesives, which will yield better resistance to creep and spring back. The question of clamping the curved veneer is probably a bigger question. Will you use a vacuum press or clamp it to a former?
Urea formaldehyde gives you a very hard glue line which is perfect for this sort of work, but there is always the pot life issue to contend with. Added to that is the shortish shelf life of these adhesives.

Errol@Elraco

I've used PU glues in similar applications with no problems, but clamping must be good. Longbows made this way have never failed me. PU will fill gaps ... but with a foam that has no strength. I use a vacuum press when laminating/veneering.

I use Titebond PU because it has an open time of 20-30 minutes and a clamp time of 1 to 1.5 hours. Application is with a cheap foam roller.

If the curve is reasonably gentle you should be able to make up a form from polystyrene and clamp the glued plys over this with a vacuum press, the same way skate boards are made. You can make your own bags up or buy them ready made from CarbaTec.

Hi Derek, at Heartwood we always used UF for curved laminations but we obtained them in larger quantities. Worked great! Also got it in powder form that we had to mix so you could just use as much as you needed.
Can find out where we got it from if you're interested.

Paul.

I have used titebond successfully for a structual curved beam. I used a squeegee to apply the glue. 6 months of rain and sun and no primer it has held up to the weather. Another must do job .... get out there and pain it before it is to late


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art