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Thread: Latest on Glues

  1. #1
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    Default Latest on Glues

    G'day all

    I know this has been discussed before. And I have done a search of the past posts.
    But what are your thoughts on the latest glues? The best for furniture particularly.
    There are many types but no one seems to have a definitive answer.
    Is it just personal preference?

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  3. #2
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    I would not know what the latest glue was. That said there are glues for different applications so no one glue does everything. For most of the things I call furniture I use a normal PVA glue. I use epoxy where something is under high stress and for some get out of jail situations where gap filling is needed. Superglue (CA glue) is good to hold cracks together and is the woodturners friend. Another important thing with glues is its open time so can you get the job clamped up in time. Its what glue suits the job in hand so no definitive answer from me.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
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    Redminch,

    Glue choice is largely a function of what we are doing ... it depends on what type of joint we are making.

    I use a good quality PVA glue in most furniture applications. Cheap ... easy to apply ... decent open time ... easiest clean up. I use Selley's because I can get it at Bunnings, which is close to home.

    For veneering I use Titebond PU glue. It has a longer open time than most PU glues and because it is moisture free will not warp veneered panels. Only one hour needed in the press. I made but one veneered panel with PVA glue. It warped. Never again.

    When I want a very fast bond I use Tarzan's Grip PU glue and dampen one surface with water. 20 minutes later I can have the job going through the sander. This glue is also great for bonding timber to metal and other materials. Epoxy will also do this, but it has a very slow cure.

    When I need gap filling I use West System epoxy resin. I also use it to glue together dissimilar materials occasionally.

    When filling minor imperfections I fill the crack/knot or whatever with fine sawdust and drip on super glue. Sometimes, I stain the sawdust first.

    All these glues are, if applied and clamped correctly, stronger than the timber. The timber will split before the glue lets go. When I first started woodworking I found that difficult to believe, so I made up some joints and tested them. Not one glue seam failed. However, this is assuming you are gluing long grain to long grain.

  5. #4
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    John

    "I use a good quality PVA glue in most furniture applications. Cheap ... easy to apply ... decent open time ... easiest clean up. I use Selley's because I can get it at Bunnings, which is close to home."

    Thanks for the replys. I have an old table to repair and some of the old replys on here have said use the same old animal glue as used originally.
    But I have cleaned up the joints back to clean wood. So I think that PVA should be okay.
    Just wanted to see if anyone had some experience with anything "new"
    Any other thoughts?

    Regards

    Brian

  6. #5
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    If you envisage your furniture lasting 100 years, or being handed down the generations, then you need to make provision for repair. The best glue for this - that can be undone with moist heat, and then re-glued on top of the old glue - is a hide glue. I use Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. This has urea added, and has a longer open time.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
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    Thanks for your contribution Derek.
    Good advice and a great help for me.

    Regards

  8. #7
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    A past love of mine was Aerolite 308. Don't seem able to find it anywhere these days. It's a UreaFormaldehyde glue, comes as a powder that you mix with water into a gel that you put on one surface, then brush the hardener on the other surface and clamp. Dries clear, is boilproof, great for kitchen furniture, chopping boards, (and wooden airplanes). But, like many good things, can't see it anywhere now. {le sigh}

  9. #8
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    I have read online about glue creep with PVA glues, and often wonder if it is a real issue that people have actually experienced, or rather a hyped non-issue that professionals disregard.

    I would be interested to hear educated thoughts on this.

    I keep thinking, if PVA moves, then why are we using it?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.W.H. View Post
    A past love of mine was Aerolite 308. Don't seem able to find it anywhere these days. It's a UreaFormaldehyde glue, comes as a powder that you mix with water into a gel that you put on one surface, then brush the hardener on the other surface and clamp. Dries clear, is boilproof, great for kitchen furniture, chopping boards, (and wooden airplanes). But, like many good things, can't see it anywhere now. {le sigh}
    Have not seen it here for many years, but you can still get it in the UK -

    Aerolite One Shot Adhesive - Adkwik

    I think Cascamite brand is the same - you can get it via Amazon or order from Axminster UK

    Resin Adhesives - Adhesives - Adhesives, Fixings & Hardware | Axminster Tools International

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LanceC View Post
    I have read online about glue creep with PVA glues, and often wonder if it is a real issue that people have actually experienced, or rather a hyped non-issue that professionals disregard.

    I would be interested to hear educated thoughts on this.

    I keep thinking, if PVA moves, then why are we using it?
    Glue creep is very real. Usually noticed when using different woods with differing expansion rates so the join can be felt as a slight ridge. Bent laminations are another place to avoid using PVA. I used to make archery bows and PVA was a bad word in that world. For most woodworking however PVA does the job just fine and I guess its being easy to use is its main selling point.
    Regards
    John

  12. #11
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    Yep, glue creep is a thing. You can get stop it happening, to a point. I'd tell you how, but I've been into the homebrew.

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    Yes, P.W.H. ... 308 was the business for many applications. I tried to track it down a while ago but the manufacturer told me it had been discontinued.

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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    Glue creep is very real. Usually noticed when using different woods with differing expansion rates so the join can be felt as a slight ridge. Bent laminations are another place to avoid using PVA. I used to make archery bows and PVA was a bad word in that world. For most woodworking however PVA does the job just fine and I guess its being easy to use is its main selling point.
    Regards
    John


    PVA is fine for chair and table frames and most other joinery, but avoid it on anything where the joint will be sanded flat and visible (table tops, laminated legs/posts, etc.); PU was always the glue of choice at work for that stuff.

  15. #14
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    Always something new to learn. I'm intrigued by the comments on glue creep and visible joints. Can someone explain exactly what is meant by glue creep in this sense? Are we talking 'sliding about' during curing, or subsequent differential wood expansion after the joint is firm?

  16. #15
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    glue creep = glue becoming more visible and seeping from the joint, typically over long periods eg years, because the glue retains some plasticity.

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