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Thread: Grey Ironbark dining table WIP
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9th January 2011, 08:04 AM #16
Gees, I just tuned in and all the front seats are already taken
Coupla nice pieces of wood there, CH.
When you say spindly legs you mean turned or tapered. Pencil legs, smooth or 6 sided?
Just noticed your thicknesser. Looks to be a heavy duty sorta beast. 15" ?
All Nicholas Dattner put under his tables was a perspex plaque, and you have to put the cutlery thereregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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9th January 2011, 09:02 AM #17
Hey Nick, yes turned (no lead in the middle either) , with a round tenon up through the table top with some wedges (no sour cream) they are also slightly splayed not dead virtical.
The thicknesser is a Hafco T 381 (15") I can just squeeze 375ish mm through comfortably. The wide boards on the table just sqeezed through 0.5 - 1mm per cut on stuff like the Ironbark etc. Does a lot of work and fantastic job.
Its nice to give people a little surprise, something unusual and somethig they don't expect, a little wow thrown in that doesn't cost much. And as I said, it has to be fun.
One of the old US wood workers, Wharton Esherick said "If it's not fun don't do it"
Thats where I'm at.
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9th January 2011, 09:17 AM #18GOLD MEMBER
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thanks for sharing again, Claw, I find your posts terrific. I hope your back is better soon - that is some weight you have been manhandling - be careful, and preferably get some help when lifting.
Correct me if I am wrong, but did you use dowels to join the boards? Timber or steel for that weight? What spacing did you use?
I was wondering why you did not use biscuits or a floating tenon along the length of the board or a tongue and groove arrangement?regards,
Dengy
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9th January 2011, 11:57 AM #19
Hi Jill
If your joints have been jointed well and you have good contact along the lenth the glue does all the work. The dowels are there just to line up the top edge. Once the doweling jig is set and you make sure you keep the registration plate on the top of your board, the dowels are all the same distance down from the top surface. Glue your dowles into one face, glue your joint and push them together, whack your clamps on and the top should be all lined up. The dowels stop the boards from squirming and coming out of alignment when you tighten up your clamps too. Biscuits, dominos, floating tenons and m&ts are way more than needed and would all take longer than a few dowels.
I only use as many dowels as I think the board needs to take any waves out. What I mean to say is, if you lay two boards flat side by side and one bows or waves up so there is a ledge then I will put a dowel there as well as one at each end or where ever needed to get keep it flat. The other alternative would be if you had some long reach clamps that could reach to the centre of your table you could use those to pull your board down or sit enough weight on it to push it down flat. Sorry may have started to prattle. I put between 3 - 5 usualy but if its a long wonky board it might have 8.
Hope thats covered it Jill
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9th January 2011, 01:59 PM #20
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9th January 2011, 02:05 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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thanks Claw, that is valuable information for amateurs like me who are just about to join their first boards. Looks like I am going to have to find a good metric dowel jig in a hurry. Glad I read your post in time.
regards,
Dengy
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9th January 2011, 02:48 PM #22
Jill I have an old stanley 59 that I got off ebay, basic, sturdy and cheaper than most of the nick nack new ones. I use the 3/8" tube with a 9.5mm bit which fits well enough. I use Haron centre points to line up the opposing board, these are 10mm, in soft would the 9.5mm is ok but in hardwood I enlarge them to 10mm after the initial drilling.
Tomorrow I might do a quick picture sequence for you on joining two boards. Once you see it start to finish its very simple, very quick and very effective.
Other than they don't work very well, your legs seem fine Ray. Even if you didn't have them you would still have to buy trousers
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9th January 2011, 04:00 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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thanks Claw. I thought your jig looked familiar. I just had a look in my tool cupboard out in the shed, and found a similiar dowelling jig, imperial, No. 30 by Silex Tools ( HFH logo) with all 5 drilling tubes 1/4" to 1/2". Must have got it in the 1960's when I was doing some bookshelf woodwork as a student way back then. In those days all I had was a hammer and saw. It is only useful for doing edge dowels. Will use it the way you suggest with the metric drill bits.
Just a quick question, when and how do you remove the PVA glue on the joint lines?regards,
Dengy
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9th January 2011, 04:18 PM #24
I wipe any excess off with a dry rag (no water) and then leave it untill I take the clamps off. Then I will go over the top with the belt sander. If I do happen to end up with a ledge anywhere I will sometimes take it off with a plane first then back to the belt sander. Thats the next episode, you're jumping ahead.
I don't remeber what the Silex jig looks like. I also have a General but it was spring loaded and allowed too much movement.
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10th January 2011, 10:51 PM #25
Oops forgot to do the doweling demo.
Anyway here are todays pics and progress 1. smoothing off the top and getting rid of any steps in the joints. My old dog home made scraper plane. Had to use the scraper the grain in this stuff is all over the shop. 2. setting out the chamfer on the underside edge with saw at the ready. 3 The circular saw will only do 45 deg so finished off with the electric plane and belt sander. 4. Putting the skirt/frame together, mitred and held together with screws. The joints will be glued and the screw holes plugged. 5. Slot 12mm down from the top of the skirt to take the table top clips. 6. Clips in both ends just sides to go in the morning. Then a tidy up and locate the positions for the legs.
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11th January 2011, 12:19 AM #26
reply 25 and I've only just spotted this, oh well! I'll lurk in the background again
Pete
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11th January 2011, 07:21 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for posting these Claw - it is really great to see what an artisan can do! Me, I would not have been game to take a circular saw to do a bevel on this beautiful bit of timber for fear of stuffing it all up. Still, I suppose it was on the underside, and any mistakes woud not be too noticeable.
I like the scraper plane - looks a lot easier to use than a blade esp if there is some arthritis in the thumb joints, like meregards,
Dengy
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11th January 2011, 08:35 AM #28GOLD MEMBER
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Good idea for the scraper . Shades of HNT there .
Do you have the blade set 90deg or a bit off.
I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
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11th January 2011, 08:57 AM #29
Coming along nicely Claw and with basic tooling and workshop. A real craftsman
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11th January 2011, 11:44 AM #30
Hey CH, Lookin good
Love cranky grain
Could we have a closer look at the scraper plane, please
Have thought about making one but am willing to pinch others ideas whenever possible before I do.
Legs inside or outside the skirt?*
* hmm thought about rephrasing that question, but I'll leave it alone I thinkregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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