Thread: Half Round Table WIP

Originally Posted by Clinton1

Pete,

Looking good and making it look easy.

Any time you want to yarn on about 'torsion boxes' please do as I have a very limited understanding and never know how to determin the skeleton/framing dimensions. Mine run the risk of being nearer blockboard than torsion box. Yours is much lighter.

The veneer you are using is certainly not understated, and is going to be really attractive to those that like boldness and impact.

Hi Clinton,
The dimension for the skeleton rectangles I settled on is based on the first TB I did for a rectangular coffee table using the 1:1.6 rule (golden ratio) (width to length) so all I did was make the dimensions of the skeleton in the same ratio with a given number of divisions to give me the required finished width/length for the table, to determine the number of divisions I calculated possible dimensions (the thickness of the skeleton pieces have to known at this point) and then looked at what might be the maximum spacing before I could see any deflection in the skin (5ply 1/4" thick) just from pressing on it, they could easily be larger than I currently make with regard to deflection but it looks about right.

For a thicker skin you could easily go larger again but then you might have to consider thicker skeleton pieces to give enough glue area to resist the forces from whatever the load might be especially for a load bearing application.

I see no reason why if you were making a square table that the skeleton dims couldn't be made up as squares if so desired


Pete

Originally Posted by Woodwould

Yes, that's how I would do it. It would be much easier and save all the hassle with cauls and clamps.

It's looking good.

I will have to have a look at using horse sauce for this sort of work, it is a hassle to make up formers to keep the veneer using pva under control

Pete

I wanted to cover the bottom edge of the apron with a thicker piece of veneer, I could have done it in pieces or a wide piece to cut it from but I decided on one piece and curved to suit so I made up a steam box to steam a piece.
steaming setup.JPGkettle.JPGview into box.JPG

I used the V1 former for the first try but it sprung back too far so I resteamed the piece and bent it in the V2 former, the piece came out close, I faced an edge then cut strips on the BS, thickness sanded and glued onto the btms of the aprons.
I trimmed the green and with a bit more sanding ready for glueing.
Attachment 191327Attachment 191328Attachment 191329
Attachment 191330Attachment 191332Attachment 191331

Next will be the legs...


Pete

Are the legs going to be veneered?

Pete, this is a truly admirable piece of work and a great WIP to boot!

Keep it coming!!

Originally Posted by Christos

Are the legs going to be veneered?

Hi Christos, no legs won't be veneered, solid raintree


Pete

Do post's dissappear? Probly not! I thought I had posted about the table being a bit wobbly, probably just as well cos I wasn't real happy, anyway, with the amount I removed off the legs to make the taper it ended up being too much, made the table far too wobbly, add this to the experience basket, so, How to fix? I could remake the legs or add some bracing, a low shelf might add some stiffness but not enough me thinks
I decided to see what some bracing in the form of curved pieces might look like, had a bit of a think as to how to set it up, then I steamed some bits...
Attachment 193878Attachment 193879

With the second piece which is a bit longer I made a few mods to the setup, I remade the center screwdown brackets so I can get a clamp onto them because in the first setup the center tended to pull away from the bracket as the curve was pulled around.
I also cut some steel angle for end brackets because the forces at the ends of the curve increase especially with not much overhang and I upped the size of the screws
Attachment 193880Attachment 193881

Moisture content went up to 24ish% so I left them for a couple of weeks to settle back down, came back down to 9ish% so I sliced the 2 pieces into 4 bits each the other day, there are a few ways I could arrange them to supply the required stiffness but What looks the best?
Here's one way...
Attachment 193888Attachment 193889Attachment 193890
Attachment 193891
It does look a bit busy but it is at eye height and closeup

This one is how I had it in my mind...
Attachment 193892

What's the opinion out there?


Pete

I love it. I think it looks great.
I forgot to add, Option 1.

Great WIP Pete.
The curved bracing is different , but iI would prefer the table without - Would look more elegant IMHO .
So the score is 1;1 ATM
Be interesting to see what the ratio is after a few more opinions . I reckon still fifty fifty

Pete
In my humble opinion I believe the second option has the green light. To me all the braces are going to a central focal point and it is much more pleasing to my eye/ brain to look at a more symetrical piece.
It is looking great. beautiful work

Im a bit of a rookie, but in my opinion, I prefer the first option.... Although each is as good as the other

I planed and thicknessed the braces, then I setup the radius jig for the router and shaped the external and internal curves, here I am setup for external...
Attachment 194116

I setup the table on the floor for another look at positioning them, and now the optometrist thing...
this
Attachment 194117

or this
Attachment 194118

the bracing does stiffen it up but I think it still needs more


Pete

for what it's worth, I prefer option 1
it doesn't look as busy

Bit slow in my response but I prefer option 1 configuration with a question does the bracing have to go all the way to the floor / foot of the leg?