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  1. #1
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    Default Hardwood bench panel insert

    Brainstrust I seek some assistance

    I致e built a bench and currently I知 installing drawers, bottom half drawers are larger and I知 planning the next set of drawers for the top half



    As I知 building this into the bench instead of a seperate carcass I知 going to make a panel with a perpendicular panel about halfway around 500mm. So think of an upside down T. This will form seperation of space so the pattern makers vice has its own freedom to move on the left hand side of the bench then the three more narrow drawers will fill the right hand side




    My question is around hardwood material and panel construction for stability, it doesn稚 suit to use ply or mdf given I致e made the rest of the bench so I知 going to dimension a bunch of ironbark, tallowood and stringy bark to around 20mm thick, 200mm wide and make a panel 1000mm wide and 600mm deep. If I simply alternate the grain direction when gluing will this be enough to minimise movement? Or should I cut pieces similar to the draw base two long lengths with perpendicular lengths in between? Even a rail and stile style orientation

    I can use dowels or dominos to align all of it together I知 just curious as to what orientation of Boards would make the most stable panel

    I have a slider on my tablesaw to rip cut the 1000mm lengths so I should have a good glue line if laminating them together

    Anyway that should be enough for now, thanks for any advice and ideas people may have

    Thanks
    Nathan

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  3. #2
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    Think I値l go for a rail and stile formation with some ironbark and tallowood. Made a start this afternoon




  4. #3
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    Your workbench looks great, please let us know how it turns out.

  5. #4
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    Nice work. Keep us all posted.

  6. #5
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    Just a couple pics to update the thread

    Managed to build the panel with perpendicular upright to form the carcass for the final two or three smaller drawers

    Disregard the tongue on the upright front facing panel that was trimmed off after I had a good dado fit. 2200 festool and track were perfect for this cut and then trimmed the panel with the HNTmoving fillister. All installed now and runners screwed in. Onto drawer dimensions









  7. #6
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    Oh boy has this plan gone to cr@p. My benchtop started to pull apart due to poor glue up and jointing by hand in one or two areas

    Going to take the opportunity once they池e jointed again to insert a 1800x600 mft top likely from form ply recessed within the hardwood frame. Should give me more functionality and versatility on top of the drawers for tool storage

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Oh boy has this plan gone to cr@p. My benchtop started to pull apart due to poor glue up and jointing by hand in one or two areas
    Ouch!, today seems to be full of disasters, between you and John Samuels post on his veneering job.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Oh boy has this plan gone to cr@p. My benchtop started to pull apart due to poor glue up and jointing by hand in one or two areas
    My commiserations. Been there and it's awful. What glue are you using? Is your work bench made of our hard, slick feeling timbers like spotted gum (and I see you mentioned tallowwood)? You may be making life hard for yourself, these timbers can be difficult to glue. I've had success with Titebond II and spotted gum, but failure with Titebond I and with a polyurethane glue. The poly glue was my first time using it, so there may be user error there, I will be trying Sika polyurethane glue in the future. But Titebond II - I have boxes, countertops, and a mirror glued using it on spotted gum and no issues at all. The other recommended to me option is Techniglue but it's pretty pricey. You can also try wiping down the to be glued areas with acetone just before gluing.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    My commiserations. Been there and it's awful. What glue are you using? Is your work bench made of our hard, slick feeling timbers like spotted gum (and I see you mentioned tallowwood)? You may be making life hard for yourself, these timbers can be difficult to glue. I've had success with Titebond II and spotted gum, but failure with Titebond I and with a polyurethane glue. The poly glue was my first time using it, so there may be user error there, I will be trying Sika polyurethane glue in the future. But Titebond II - I have boxes, countertops, and a mirror glued using it on spotted gum and no issues at all. The other recommended to me option is Techniglue but it's pretty pricey. You can also try wiping down the to be glued areas with acetone just before gluing.
    Appreciate the thoughts on this, looking back only 18months ago when i built the initial frame and top the workshop was drastically different. I was building it with a priority to have it assembled and usable bench to expand on other areas within the shop and begin making. i also primarily built it with hand tools and i think pva glue as i was out of titebond at the time. I now have titebond 2 along with a new jointer combo machine to help me re-dress these materials. clean up the old glue and re-dimension it before my next glue up, oh also more clamps i have now. Yeah thats right tallowood and stringybark some spotted gum also i think. a bitza

    So equipment and capability wise i was in a different place to now so ill take this opportunity to fix the issue on multiple fronts Good idea with the acetone before glueup. i have plenty of titebond II but that Sika poly glue looks alright also.

    Cheers,
    Nathan

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    I now have titebond 2 along with a new jointer combo machine to help me re-dress these materials. clean up the old glue and re-dimension it before my next glue up, oh also more clamps i have no
    Hi Nathan, What jointer combo did you get, also what clamps?.

    Sam.

  12. #11
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    My magic 8 ball says a Hammer C3-31.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    My magic 8 ball says a Hammer C3-31.
    Correct Alkahestic!, a comfort C3-31 combo which ive just wheeled into position to begin this afternoon. More Bessey k-body clamps of varying sizes to glue up the portions together. the hardwood laminated pieces that contain my hnt vices i may keep together and then attach via some recessed hinges another hardwood frame with recessed formply/mdf for the mft top. so i can store some combo machine accessories under for easy access. little harder to write but ill post a drawing of my benchtop expansion considerations

  14. #13
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    You've got some awesome equipment delbs. I'm lusting after your vice and fillester plane the most though.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    a comfort C3-31 combo
    How much did you pay for that, if you don't mind me asking?

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    You've got some awesome equipment delbs. I'm lusting after your vice and fillester plane the most though.
    Ah yes the moving fillister is my one of a kind I love that plane

    The combo helps with these aussie hardwoods it has 4hp motors.

    Managed to get a portion of the panel back to glue up stage all jointed and glued with titebond 2




    Will domino together the frame for the mft insert tomorrow

    Cheers
    Nathan

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