Thread: Help Needed: Creating inset Drawer Front Style

Originally Posted by auscab

The muscle chuck mentioned sounds interesting as well

Because its the first router I've ever owned I have nothing to compare it to. However I do love the
thing to 'bits'. The plunge mechanism is very slick and smooth, changing bits is effortless aswell. That combined with the soft start, variable speed 3.something horsepower the router is a beast. All
hardware is included for table mounting the machine.

Originally Posted by John Samuel

Personally, I prefer raised drawer fronts, but there's no accounting for taste.

They're certainly more forgiving.

So I'll be making the drawers soon, I'm using box joints for the first time but haven't decided on a how to do the
drawer bottoms. I've always made them captured but I'm thinking applied would be alot more traditional and would look better?.

Thoughts, and suggestions appreciated.

Sam

What is the correct way of going about this?. I want to install inset box joint drawers in this coffee table I'm building:

IMG_0127.jpg

I'm not using any metal sliders or hardware for the drawers but want a 2mm gab around the edge of each drawer. I also want the sides to be clean without anything attached or having them rebated.

What is the correct way of going about this?. Is it simply a case of gluing two 2mm shims to the sides of the opening and two 2mm shims for the bottom?, or is there another way?.

Short answer about the bottoms: if the bottoms are plywood then you can apply them or capture them in a groove. If solid wood then you have to capture them so they are free to move.

If you apply them then of course make sure the edges don't show on the fronts!

For fitting wooden drawers I have followed Andy Rae's method which draws on classic tradition. Folk differ on whether to fit the drawer fronts to the opening first or backs first. I don't think it matters much. Take your pick. You can download a free pdf here:

Fitting Inset Drawers

A 2mm gap is actually a bit wide in my opinion. Less of a gap, more like a scant 1 mm, reduces the chance of the drawer cocking and binding when you push it in. It is possible, and works well, if the drawers move just a tiny bit side to side when fit. You can and probably should add a bit more gap top and bottom if you have wide seasonal variation in humidity.

I fit these drawers using Rae's method three years ago and they work today as they did then.

One more suggestion is to not be in a rush. It takes time to get it right but it is worth it.

BDE01610-166A-4596-B847-C357AAEFC625_1_105_c.jpeg

Originally Posted by GRadice

For fitting wooden drawers I have followed Andy Rae's method which draws on classic tradition.

So I should glue shims parallel? as in the direction of the yellow arrow:

IMG_01227.jpg

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I'm not using any metal sliders or hardware for the drawers but want a 2mm gab around the edge of each drawer. I also want the sides to be clean without anything attached or having them rebated.

What is the correct way of going about this?. Is it simply a case of gluing two 2mm shims to the sides of the opening and two 2mm shims for the bottom?, or is there another way?.

I don't understand what your wanting to do Sam.
Maybe draw it ?

Do you want a 2mm gap around the front of a flush fitting drawer front? To grab onto to open the drawer?
Do you want to add something to the front of a flush fitting drawer to grab onto ?

Originally Posted by auscab

I don't understand what your wanting to do Sam.
Maybe draw it ?

Do you want a 2mm gap around the front of a flush fitting drawer front? To grab onto to open the drawer?
Do you want to add something to the front of a flush fitting drawer to grab onto ?

Sorry Rob, I want a 2-1mm gap around the front of the drawer front, like what I did with my tool cabinet build:

IMG_8918.jpg

Except these are on metal runners which I don't want.

I'll draw it if its not clear.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

So I should glue shims parallel? as in the direction of the yellow arrow:

IMG_01227.jpg

If you want a gap all around the front and you having a handle or knob to open the drawer then it'll need 2mm shim at least on the left and right side as guides and on the bottom and the top attached to the carcass for the drawer to run on and as kickers to stop the drawer tilting down when its opened.

It doesn't really need one along the front edge of the carcass.

Originally Posted by auscab

If you want a gap all around the front and you having a handle or knob to open the drawer then it'll need 2mm shim at least on the left and right side as guides and on the bottom and the top attached to the carcass for the drawer to run on and as kickers to stop the drawer tilting down when its opened.

Yes a 2mm gap around the front, they will have a handle/knob to open the drawer.

Now my question is should I have false drawer fronts like I've done on my tool cabinet, in which case the shims would need to be thicker, say 5-6mm or should I have no false drawer fronts in which case the shims would be only 2mm?.

If the next question is.

"How do I clamp such pieces in place ? "

Go bar sticks cut from scrap.
go bar stick clamp - Google Search

Id be using appropriate timber cauls as the 2mm strips will bow without some extra help. If you can get a bit of formply with the black plastic release film on both sides and cut that up for the cauls its fantastic at not getting stuck to things as your gluing up.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Yes a 2mm gap around the front, they will have a handle/knob to open the drawer.

Now my question is should I have false drawer fronts like I've done on my tool cabinet, in which case the shims would need to be thicker, say 5-6mm or should I have no false drawer fronts in which case the shims would be only 2mm?.

I think false fronts . You will be able to add and trim them to perfection after the drawer is fitted. You wont see box joints on the front as well. Nice drawer construction has thin sides backs an bottoms. Like 7 to 9.5 mm thick if possible. Thicker is OK though. Ive never seen a drawer glued up that didn't need the front planed to become flush with the carcass after it was dry as well. So a solid front thick enough to do that or later fitted false front is the way to go.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Now my question is should I have false drawer fronts like I've done on my tool cabinet, in which case the shims would need to be thicker, say 5-6mm or should I have no false drawer fronts in which case the shims would be only 2mm?.

False fronts or no false fronts the shims can still be 2mm cant they?