Thread: Help Needed: Creating inset Drawer Front Style

Both drawer fronts like that Sam are usually just applied moulding glued on. The second is a wider flat but still usually glued on with the corners mitred and the long grain going down across the grain. Thats the norm and the the cheaper fast way. On antique stuff, the second one is seen recessed into the solid front and the moulding cut into that. Not glued on or applied . You see that in a lot of French provincial furniture.

like this is just under the cornice and down the corner on the left. All cut and chiseled on the shaped bits or moulded scratch stock on the straight sections.
IMG_4620.jpeg

What Robert said ...

This method is also common for doors and windows. Often the flat surface is the frame (as in frame and panel) and then a small molding is glued to the inside edge of the frame as well as the panel My timber windows are similar.

Personally, I prefer raised drawer fronts, but there's no accounting for taste.

Originally Posted by auscab

Both drawer fronts like that Sam are usually just applied moulding glued on. The second is a wider flat but still usually glued on with the corners mitred and the long grain going down across the grain. Thats the norm and the the cheaper fast way. On antique stuff, the second one is seen recessed into the solid front and the moulding cut into that. Not glued on or applied . You see that in a lot of French provincial furniture.

like this is just under the cornice and down the corner on the left. All cut and chiseled on the shaped bits or moulded scratch stock on the straight sections.
IMG_4620.jpeg

Hi Rob,

I think I was over thinking it as I thought it might be something like cock-beading or something. Would the beading stiles of the drawers (for want of a better word) have to be going with the grain of the wooden drawer front or can it be just glued across the grain?.

Yeah the stiles as you’re calling them can have the grain match the drawer front grain and the mould is added into the small rebate all around as a seperate piece rather than be a part of the applied pieces.

Originally Posted by auscab

Yeah the stiles as you’re calling them can have the grain match the drawer front grain and the mould is added into the small rebate all around as a seperate piece rather than be a part of the applied pieces.

Does the mould get glued also?. Is there a name for this technique & style of drawer front?.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Does the mould get glued also?.

Only if you want it to stay in there. What else could it be?

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Is there a name for this technique & style of drawer front?.

Probably just call it a recessed front or recessed and moulded.

What are you doing it in ? Oak ?

Originally Posted by auscab

Only if you want it to stay in there. What else could it be?

''

I thought it may be just pin nailed, I need an excuse to use my new 23G pin nailer!

Originally Posted by auscab

What are you doing it in ? Oak ?

Yep, the white stuff. I'm going with box joinery as I haven't attempted that yet, nothing too complicated and obviously wont be using any metal runners. I definitely need to make a router table sooner rather than later as I'm finding it quite hard going and limiting with some of the routing now.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Hi Rob,

I think I was over thinking it as I thought it might be something like cock-beading or something.

I wait to possibly be corrected by Rob, but it's my understanding that cock-beading was primarily applied to protect the edges of a veneered drawer front, or similar.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

''

I thought it may be just pin nailed, I need an excuse to use my new 23G pin nailer!

Save the pin nailer for adding beads to hold panels in on the back of doors.

On nice work they are neatly glued in and cleaned up removing any excess glue. If they also need nailing I sometimes nail but I use brads with heads chopped off and one of the brads goes in the hand drill to drill holes through the mould and into the drawer front. That leaves the smallest hole to fill.
Over the years I have tried many ways of cleaning off excess glue. Like wet rags and quirk sticks and sawdust. Sawdust is a favorite still actually. One thing Ive been doing lately is cutting a cheap plastic paint brush short so the plastic bristles are more stiff and scrubbing glue out with that. Best way yet for some work. Brush selection is important. These ones. Real cheap and nasty but perfect when chopped down by half.
Just a moment...

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Yep, the white stuff. I'm going with box joinery as I haven't attempted that yet, nothing too complicated and obviously wont be using any metal runners. I definitely need to make a router table sooner rather than later as I'm finding it quite hard going and limiting with some of the routing now.

Inverted router in a table is great. Some I see though are a great project but pretty complex and time consuming to make. Router lifts and all that! Ive been using the most basic set up for the last 30 years and its still working good. And is easy to use.

Box joinery? Like finger joints? You want to rout them or table saw?
Good luck with them When the box joinery drives you mad you can move on to dovetails . You'll love them and never go back.

Rob

Originally Posted by ian

I wait to possibly be corrected by Rob, but it's my understanding that cock-beading was primarily applied to protect the edges of a veneered drawer front, or similar.

Hi Ian.
I suppose they were needed when drawer fronts were veneered. There were other ways of doing the same thing with applied mouldings . And they were used on solid fronts as well just for the look of them.
Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

One thing Ive been doing lately is cutting a cheap plastic paint brush short so the plastic bristles are more stiff and scrubbing glue out with that. Best way yet for some work. Brush selection is important.

I never thought of this I'll give it a go thanks Rob. I've been using the straw method which works well once most of the big globs of glue have been collected:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWY2OXNmtXs

Originally Posted by auscab

Inverted router in a table is great. Some I see though are a great project but pretty complex and time consuming to make. Router lifts and all that! Ive been using the most basic set up for the last 30 years and its still working good. And is easy to use.

If I can manage it I'll be making a cabinet one with all the bells and whistles , apart from the router lift, my Makita has facilities to raise and lower above table.

Originally Posted by auscab

Box joinery? Like finger joints? You want to rout them or table saw?
Good luck with them When the box joinery drives you mad you can move on to dovetails . You'll love them and never go back.

I'll be trying to do them on the tablesaw, though you got me worried now! . Have you got any advice for finger joint joinery?, I'm currently making a jig for my table sled, so making a jig for a jig!.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I never thought of this I'll give it a go thanks Rob. I've been using the straw method which works well once most of the big globs of glue have been collected:
Woodcraft Magazine Tips&Tricks: Using A Straw To Clean Up Glue!? - YouTube

Removing excess first is good. The brush is used with water of course.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

If I can manage it I'll be making a cabinet one with all the bells and whistles , apart from the router lift, my Makita has facilities to raise and lower above table.

What Makita model is that . Ill check that out.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I'll be trying to do them on the tablesaw, though you got me worried now! . Have you got any advice for finger joint joinery?, I'm currently making a jig for my table sled, so making a jig for a jig!.

Ive never made whole drawers or boxes using them . Ive repaired short missing sections years ago. I forget what it was for. It just looks a bit tedious to me. Specially if its a number of drawers. They have good holding power. I was dreaming of making a machinists chest and you see them box jointed. The correct stacked cutter for the spindle moulder would be nice. Not much point getting one for a one off job though. Some of the English machinists chests Ive seen are dovetailed so I'd probably do that.

Originally Posted by auscab

What Makita model is that . Ill check that out.

Finally something I might be able to help you with, well to a degree anyway!.

Its Makita RP2301FC, this person made a cabinet for it and did a demonstration:

Make a Router table / trimmer table - YouTube

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

If I can manage it I'll be making a cabinet one with all the bells and whistles , apart from the router lift, my Makita has facilities to raise and lower above table.

Hi Sam .

This comment got my attention.
And I did a little searching on your router thinking maybe Makita had put out a router that had a raise and lower mechanism in its base facing up when mounted in a table top.

I read this review and it sounds like a great router. The muscle chuck mentioned sounds interesting as well
Review of the Makita RP2301FC router | Router Forums


I didn't see anything about raise and lower function that I assumed may be on it.
So how do you raise and lower when its inverted in a top?

Rob