Thread: need help with dining table

Hi Charlsie, from what I can see the holes look like about 1/2" and seeing how it's reclaimed and if it is to have the reclaimed look I'd just leave as is and not fill them, there doesn't look like theres a lot of reclaimed feature so I'd leave as is, it gives the piece a genuine reclaimed look as opposed to something that has been hit by a hammer or with a set of keys to give it the reclaimed look when in fact it is new timber and then is sold as reclaimed
When I reuse timber like u have there I will try to reduce a lot of the holes/cutouts/cracks especially on edges or if a long piece will yeild 2 short pieces by cutting out a hole.... that is what I aim for but then sometimes I leave things as well it's a suck it and see kinda thing.

If a large (~1")hole is to stay one option is to fill with a timber plug
like this
Attachment 131533Attachment 131534

this was a knot hole...I just fashioned a long grain plug and glued it in with some coloured epoxy, it shows end grain but if u wanted long grain to show u would cut the plug across the board....but the end grain is more difficult to work

or I will just use some coloured (my first experiment with colouring) epoxy like this
Attachment 131530Attachment 131531
I tried different colours (shades) to fill the holes but it is hard to get it just right, a poofteenth more colour and it's gone from light tan to very dark brown

the lower draw I filled the crack with black
Attachment 131532

As far as legs...a simple design might be something like an X shape with a half laps at the junction with a single stretcher at the juction or 2 stretchers lower down on each leg, with a half decent table saw u can do half lap joints and do a tenon for the stretcher ends, a drill and a chisel will do a mortise, for the stretcher ends... a thru mortise with a wedge, really depends on what gear u have and time available to spend

And finish...from what I understand, 2 main types... stays on the surface(film)(polyureathane) or soaks in(oil) if u went for an oil maybe a good decking oil, oil will tend to give a flat matte finish and u can still "feel" the timber, I would probably lean this way to go with the style.... or if u went for a film there's lots to choose from especially as it is outside...might be good question to ask in the finishing section.

Pete

thanks for the reply pete, the plugs look like a good idea for the bolt holes and the smaller nail holes i might do in black filler to suit the rust stain.as for machines i have a fairly well equiped workshop.it's the knowledge that's lacking.the idea of stretchers does apeal to.i'll talk to the client tommorow to find out the sizes he wants. as for the finsh i'm tossing up with sending it out to be finished in 70% gloss varnish. i did an outdoor kitchen benchtop in an waterbased marine satin and wasn't that happy with it.the black in the slab is clear casting resin with a bit of black brickies dust thrown in for colour. iv'e found the resin great for taking most finishes

finaly got the brief from the owners today,so i can get started.They want the table to be 2300mm x 1000mm with 3mm gaps in between the planks and square cut legs .They chose the lay out for the top now all i have to do is put it together.it will be finished in 70% gloss with uv inhibitors. just wondering if anyone has any ideas on the finishing of the top,would you recomend getting each board sprayed on its own or put the whole top together then sprayed? anyway i'll post progress pics as i go. the other pic is a babies change table,that i'm part way through,while i contemplate how to put the alfresco table together

If they want a 3mm gap between each board, I'd be inclined to finish each board before assembly, that way you'll minimise the movement of each board as it'll be sealed. Would probably also pay to wait till we've had after a wettish week to seal it till, cause then you'll know that they won't swell up and close the gap with might out undue pressure on the fixings

Charlsie, when you say al fresco, is the table going outside and if it is, is it under cover etc. Just the Oregon will need a lot of maintenance to stay outside in the elements. UV protectors or not it will need constant coats of finish to protect it, if it gets moisture in it, it won't last long.

dj, moisture content is 12% but yes the humidity is a pain at the moment.but the way i'll have to go is start the joinup,disassemble, finish sand,coat and then assemble. claw nice work, had a quick look at the pics gallery. yes the table is outside undercover but will be in the elements. what would you suggest for coating? i've been led to believe that all oil based paints yellow over time even the marine eurathane coatings. i've recently finshed a servery top made from redgum and coated that in the marine grade eurathane. it was rolled on and the finish was a good as expected with a roller but (i'm guessing) finished a bit on the dark side (like using say danish oil on redgum) .the next out door top i finished in a waterbased outdoor finish and absolutely hated the finish so if you could suggest a finish that can be sprayed on and will handle the elements and not yellow or has a garantee i'd love to hear regards andrew