Thread: Help needed. Table top issues.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Regardless of the "ya shouldas" or "ya shoulden 'aves" your stuck with a big problem there, mate.

I suspect that the simplest fix will be to wait until the crack has opened up to it's widest, then rout a channel/dado down the length of the crack (squaring the ends with a chisel) and inlay a covering strip.

If the crack is in the middle of the table you could use a contrasting timber to make it into a feature. I'm guessing it's probably not... but there's nothing to stop you from adding a "mirrored" inlay on the other side to balance things up.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do; it's a nice looking piece of kit.

Skew's solution while at some level offers a solution to fix(cover up) the problem IMO it still doesn't make any allowance for timber movement, let's say Dan waits until he thinks the crack has opened up as far as it will, let's say he can measure the MC and let's assume it's 12%, then he covers up the split, What happens when he gets an extended dry spell? Does the inlay split down the middle? or the glue lets go and opens up another gap. What happens when he gets a 2 weeks of rain? Does the table crush the inlay? Does the table break the biscuits at the outer boards?

Further to Skew's suggestion rout out the split (to full depth) glue the in piece, then if it was me I'd cut the breadboards off and not replace. Cut them off first makes the routing easier You have control of the top with all the clips holding it down, the breadboard end is largley redundant.



Pete

Lots of good suggestions here guys - thanks a lot

I will have a think over the various ideas an see which one is practical and achievable. I agree tho that the only true fix is to remove the ends and re glue/clamp the center board. I need to maintain the O/A length as the frame is fixed, so whatever happens the breadboards have to go back on..

Just need a week off to do it properly, and herein lies the problem...

Had a similar problem about ten years ago. Before I started woodworking I bought a table made in Asia of mahogany, but it had no breadboard ends.

Nevertheless, a couple of the joints at one end opened right up. They were T&G, so the gap did not extend all the way through the table, but it was pretty ugly.

I decided to go for a solution that was quick and dirty ... if it did not work I could have another shot.

Once I was fairly sure the gap was no longer growing I stained the inside of the join to match the remainder of the table and filled the gap with crystal clear fibreglass. The top was refinished and rubbed back by hand to a mirror gloss. I could see the repair, but nobody else could unless I pointed it out.

The bigger problem for you is likely the breadboard ends. Made the same mistake myself in the past.

What I find interesting is the clean break. Normally a glued joint is stronger than the timber and hence its the timber breaks away. What type of glue did you use?

Originally Posted by rustynail

...To fix the problem, I would remove the top from the table, glue the split, clamp up as per the original top fabrication, when dry remove clamps.

What Rusty said but I'd go a bit further in that whilst its clamped up I screw a rip of 12mm ply to the underside joint. But best to wait and see what the rest of the top will do. Goodluck

Originally Posted by rod1949

What I find interesting is the clean break. Normally a glued joint is stronger than the timber and hence its the timber breaks away. What type of glue did you use?
What Rusty said but I'd go a bit further in that whilst its clamped up I screw a rip of 12mm ply to the underside joint. But best to wait and see what the rest of the top will do. Goodluck

Hi Rod, I used Titebond Original Wood Glue. The ply stop is a great idea, should have thought of that before . I suspect the joint that broke was the weakest link as it was the last joint I glued due to logistics. I glued up 2 equal sections, then glued the 2 sections together as the final joint, probably not the best way, but that all i could do with just me myself and I unfortunately.

Re the fix suggestion -
...To fix the problem, I would remove the top from the table, glue the split, clamp up as per the original top fabrication, when dry remove clamps.

I assume after the top is removed, I would then somehow remove the breadboards before the next step of gluing the split and clamping, otherwise it won't compress when clamped. Then T&G the breadboard back on (dry joint - pinned)

Might be a job for the xmas hols..