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  1. #1
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    Default Knock down bed hardware

    In the nearish future im building the wife and I a pretty basic king sized bed.

    Using 240x35mm black butt thats already DAR. Due to the size of the bed it will need to be able to be knocked down and re assembled in the bed room and very much trying to avoid any exposed fasteners.

    So going to just build a butt joined box with the legs attached to the base/head boards.

    Question is about knock down hardware...

    Any one got any recommendations? The current queen bed we have uses this style of bracket attached into the leg (its a 4 poster bed)
    127456_000_001_990x.jpg
    No real complaints about it but bit more fiddling around with mortises to get it installed.

    Has anyone used the surface mount types? There is this type
    Screenshot_20240505_135701_Chrome.jpg
    But being what looks like a thin-ish bit of metal as the hook im worried about "racking"

    Also spotted this type which seems to bolt together. So i could dry fit a domino or two for alignment and use it to clamp everything together as it "pulls in" rather then "wedges down" as the other types do.
    Screenshot_20240505_141826_Chrome.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I've never seen the first type you've linked to, they look pretty good, but I'm surprised they don't pull the screws out of the end grain. The second type is only suitable for lighter beds IMO. I've used the third type, never again. The threads on the bolts and bracket they attach to end up getting mashed up over time because the metal bracket is only fairly thin. Once you've pulled them apart once or twice they're stuffed. I've sourced some from Hafele - Tommo Bed Bracket - Bed Brackets & Fittings - Accessories - thebedroom.com.au - for the bed that I'm currently building and I have higher hopes for them. The leg/headboard attachment (angled piece) is 3mm thick, so nice and sturdy, and the side rail bracket (flat with pins) is 2.5mm.

    Should have mentioned you can also get a kit of these that includes brackets for attaching a centre support.
    Last edited by aldav; 5th May 2024 at 05:38 PM. Reason: Additional information

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    I've never seen the first type you've linked to, they look pretty good, but I'm surprised they don't pull the screws out of the end grain.
    If you were to insert some dowel in from the inside like these but in timber, that’d solve the endgrain problem.
    Cheers

    DJ


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  5. #4
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    Default

    When we were first married we bought a waterbed.
    Our intention was to put an ordinary mattress in it but the lady said you may as well try it.
    Anyway we found it very comfortable and it was our bed for 25 years.
    It was an American made thing and was able to be taken apart quite easily for transport, which we did on numerous occasions.
    What held it together were 90 degree brackets that joined the sides to the posts at the head and foot ends.
    Same for the bed head and foot end
    I had a look on the net and found similar ones
    here 90 Degree Corner Bracket - Mr Waterbed
    Not sure if that will get you there or you need to copy and paste.
    I tried to copy the pic but wasn't able .

    Cheers

    Frank

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    I've never seen the first type you've linked to, they look pretty good, but I'm surprised they don't pull the screws out of the end grain. The second type is only suitable for lighter beds IMO. I've used the third type, never again. The threads on the bolts and bracket they attach to end up getting mashed up over time because the metal bracket is only fairly thin. Once you've pulled them apart once or twice they're stuffed. I've sourced some from Hafele - Tommo Bed Bracket - Bed Brackets & Fittings - Accessories - thebedroom.com.au - for the bed that I'm currently building and I have higher hopes for them. The leg/headboard attachment (angled piece) is 3mm thick, so nice and sturdy, and the side rail bracket (flat with pins) is 2.5mm.

    Should have mentioned you can also get a kit of these that includes brackets for attaching a centre support.
    Yeah the first ones have been in the bed over 20 years no issue and coped with us through our late teens

    I think i remember seeing the ones you linked while scrolling at some point. I wasnt sure how they would go due to the lack of a wedge to kind of bind everything together.

    I wonder if something like yours would be great paired up with a pocket screw or two so the bracket is taking the weight but the screws bind it together?

  7. #6
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    The slot in the 90 degree angled brackets is not cut parellel to the bracket side so that the side rail bracket locks in with a wedging action when attached. Hope that makes sense? I'm also relying on the brand in my hope that they won't be rubbish. You get two right and two left fixtures in a packet.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    The slot in the 90 degree angled brackets is not cut parellel to the bracket side so that the side rail bracket locks in with a wedging action when attached. Hope that makes sense? I'm also relying on the brand in my hope that they won't be rubbish. You get two right and two left fixtures in a packet.

    ahhh yep, I didn't notice that little detail drawing they put up.

  9. #8
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    I have used the surface mount type and after a bit more than 12 years still good. Used timber about the same size as you mentioned. Bed has been apart a couple of times for moving as well.
    Regards
    John
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #9
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    I've opted for adlav's suggested ones.


    so ordered a set and will have to see how they go. I like the idea of the whole bracket being flush against the timber, rather then the hooked shaped ones where the recieving part is actually a U shape meaning its just two thin edges digging into the timber.

  11. #10
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    For the beds I've made, I went old school and used bed bolts and stub tenons. The newer alternatives from Veritas that were not available when I made these beds have a barrel bolt instead of square nuts that are probably easier to install. Not that I found the old school square nuts hard to install.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    For the beds I've made, I went old school and used bed bolts and stub tenons. The newer alternatives from Veritas that were not available when I made these beds have a barrel bolt instead of square nuts that are probably easier to install. Not that I found the old school square nuts hard to install.
    probably a MUCH stronger way of doing it, but was trying to avoid visible fixings.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    For the beds I've made, I went old school and used bed bolts and stub tenons.
    That’s how I would do it.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    The newer alternatives from Veritas that were not available when I made these beds have a barrel bolt instead of square nuts that are probably easier to install.
    Timbecon (and I'm sure other places) sell these as workbench bolts.

    Edit: Also, not that I'm biased or anything, but castle joints worked really well on a king single size bed, can't imagine it would fare worse on king size as the boards lock together really well.

  15. #14
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    Our Queen size bed had the second fastenings. After 25 years the bed was a bit wobbly; they had put them in on a joint line. Still 25 years. I moved them out a 1/2” and problem solved. Bed now over 30 years old.

    regards

  16. #15
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    So bit of an issue with the hardware.

    They dont pull in remotely square

    20240518_165614.jpg

    20240518_165604.jpg


    So if you start to wedge/pack it out you can get it ok but its gonna be a pain in the .

    20240518_165501.jpg

    20240518_165521.jpg

    I think im just going to go get a bunch of 6mm or 9mm aluminium angle and just use m10 screwserts.

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